Air Brake Parts

Bruce · #1 02-20-2008

Last year I had one of he diaphragms in my front brake chambers let go. After it was repaired I also purchased a sper diaphragm. I am thinking of replacing both front chambers. Why play around with 20 year old brake parts. I think they are type 24. If so they can be had for under $38.00 for Genuine Haldex ( Midland). Can anyone tell me if that is the correct part#? I am also going to replace the height valves for the suspension. One went on me while travelling Mexico and I think it is better to play safe and replace them all.

Randy Dupree · #2 02-20-2008

i never replace just the diaphrams,theres seals and other parts in the chamber that wears out also.
yes,change the chambers,front and rear,the height control valves too.
they are a PITA on the rear of the earlier FCs,its hard to get to the bolts and nuts at the same time,
what i do it take a big chisel and shear off the bolts.
then on the new control valve bracket weld 2 new bolts on them,then you stick the bolts (now studs) through the holes and put the nuts on.
having a pit helps too.
Randy

Bruce · #3 02-21-2008

Thanks Randy: When the Mexican mechanic changed my height valve he removed the duallies. That made it much easier. When I built my shop I should have added a pit!!

Bruce · #4 02-21-2008

Randy:

Do you know the part #'s for the rear chambers?

Randy Dupree · #5 02-21-2008

they are a 30-30 chamber,get new,not rebuilt.
Randy

Bruce · #6 02-21-2008

Thanks again Randy: Now the next question. I can see how to remove the front chambers. But the rears will have to be "caged". Do I need a special tool or will a 3/4 deep socket do the trick?

Randy Dupree · #7 02-21-2008

the cage tool is a 'T' bolt that should be in a "holder' made into the center section of the chamber, it takes a 3/4'' wrench to remove it.
take it out of the holder,and insert the "T" end into the hole on the back of the chamber,turn it a 1/4 turn,pull on it to make sure its locked into the slot,then tighten the nut down to cage the spring and to release the park brake.

NOTICE:when you cage the spring,the coach will roll,if the coach rolls over you there will be a big sale at your WIFES house!!

NOTE! the way i do this is to chock the wheels,all of them,front and back,front and back of each wheel,front and back wheels.
then i air the coach up and release the parking brake,then i cage the springs,its easy to do it that way,because the spring is already compressed.

NOTE:I ran a truck shop and worked on semis for 10 years,i have done this many times.
I HIGHLY RECOMMEND THAT YOU GET A GARAGE TO REPLACE THE REAR CHAMBERS.
adjusting the rear brakes can be tough,getting the chamber bolts off is tough,i made a wrench to do that job.
they will not charge alot to replace the rears,and doing it on the ground will be tough.
Randy

Bruce · #8 02-21-2008

Thanks for the advice. I never get under my Bird unless the wheels are blocked. I am also paranoid about being under unless it is supported by more than one means. I will look at the rears again. I could see the one 5/8 nut but I did not look to see ho to get at the other. Lots of truck shops in Mexico. I will let one of them do the rears.

Stephen · #9 02-21-2008

its about a twbety minute job to replace each chamber let someone else do it that has lots of experience
then the job is a snap