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  #31  
Old 10-11-2017
HighVoltage HighVoltage is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Winston
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I'm proud to have it Mike and I'm sure we will get years of enjoyment in the coach.

The one thing that I did not clean or take apart was the after cooler. Has anyone seen the guts on one and know if I should pull the blower to clean it out? I need to look at the cooling circuit to see where the coolant flows from before it gets there.
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Jacob Breedlove
1994 WB40
Winston, GA
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  #32  
Old 10-13-2017
Tim M. Tim M. is offline
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Default Alarmstat

Ok, I've studied your pics and took a look at my Bird tonight. Trying to determine if I should try and pull the radiator or try simpler things first and then move on to the radiator in spring if still needed.

I'm hoping someone can assist with Alarmstat identification. First is a picture of someone else's coach with parts labeled as I assume.

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The next two are my coach. There are 2 different items, and I'm not sure which one is the alarmstat.

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The last picture is from above looking down. It is in the same housing area as the other picture. I'm also assuming the thermostat is in that same vicinity.
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Tim, Dawn, Grace & Paul Mendenhall
And a handful of dogs
Brighton, Mi
'91 WB40
"The Mendenhauler"

2001 SOB (SOLD!)
734-32o-6353
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  #33  
Old 10-13-2017
jwasnewski jwasnewski is offline
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The one you have circled that looks like a bulb should be the alarmstat. You can identify it as follows.

Turn on the engine. Fan should be on low rpm and that switch should have power on both pins. (Normally closed) If power is only on one pin the switch is bad and the fan will be in high RPM mode.

If you exercise the fan override switch there will be no power to the switch and fan will be in high RPM mode.

If you don't find power that's not the switch or the associated relay is likely bad.

There should be two other switches. One for the gauge probably a single wire and a overtemp switch which gives a check engine or stop engine warning.

This is from memory. I have not owned my coach is years so I could be fading.
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Leroy Eckert
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  #34  
Old 10-13-2017
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gcyeaw gcyeaw is online now
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On my '86 6V the override switch opens the ground side of the fan solenoid, so the 12 volts is always present on at least one of the alarmistat terminals (when the ignition key is on)

The fan defaults to on, it requires 12 volts to turn fan off.
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86 PT-36 Golden Memories
83FC35 SB $IXTEEN TON$ SOLD
Ridgewood, New Jersey
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  #35  
Old 10-13-2017
Friday1 Friday1 is offline
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Great troubleshooting, Jacob. Think if I owned a coach with a hydraulic fan I would find a port to install a hydraulic pressure gauge to eliminate fan speed as a problem. If you knew the pressure at a certain temp as a benchmark, and that pressure was present, you can move on to another part of the cooling system as your problem. You did a great job on this. I am not a hydraulics engineer, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express with Bustdnukles and try to make off with the pancake machine.

Rick in Ohio
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  #36  
Old 10-13-2017
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Randy Dupree Randy Dupree is offline
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Hey Friday,how do you convert pressure to RPMs?
Actually,i don't think the fan speed has ever been a big problem on Birds.
The first thing you check is the rad,as far as i'm concerned.
Jacob had the coolant dumped out,and that was a good time to check the impeller.
Follow Jabobs lead and check the rad...
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2000 LXI 43
Bainbridge,Ga.
Archer Fl.
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  #37  
Old 10-13-2017
Friday1 Friday1 is offline
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Wouldn't the hydraulic pressure correlate to RPM? If you knew that a certain pressure made the right RPM that would be a benchmark for fan speed. Easy to check the pressure gauge.
Jacob did a good job on this. Probably if he went to a shop they would do the radiator first. If it was not necessary, it would have been money out of someone's pocket, but have to cover their own butts on the repair so in the long run it wouldn't overheat when they were done.

Rick in Ohio
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  #38  
Old 10-13-2017
Tim M. Tim M. is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Friday1 View Post
Wouldn't the hydraulic pressure correlate to RPM? If you knew that a certain pressure made the right RPM that would be a benchmark for fan speed. Easy to check the pressure gauge.
Jacob did a good job on this.
I'm would have to say no pressure does not correlate to RPM's and here is my thinking. There are filters in 2 separate locations. If you have a pressure gauge on the inlet of the motor after the outlet of the pump and there is a high pressure filter after the motor. Your PSI would increase on the gauge, but flow would be reduced equaling a slower speed to the fan RPM's.

It is my understanding that the fan has 2 speeds, low & high. As soon as you start the motor, it runs on low. If the Alarmstat engages or the dash AC is turned on, the fan will kick into high speed.
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Tim, Dawn, Grace & Paul Mendenhall
And a handful of dogs
Brighton, Mi
'91 WB40
"The Mendenhauler"

2001 SOB (SOLD!)
734-32o-6353
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  #39  
Old 10-13-2017
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Randy Dupree Randy Dupree is offline
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The engine RPM also controls fan speed (i think).
Not the same thing,but its someting to ponder.
Recently a guy called me and had an FC,they rebuilt the steering box because it was hard to steer,after the rebuild it was worse.
They installed a pressure gauge and thay have 1800psi,which is spec (according to them).
So,pressure to spec,but still no power steering.
I'm not saying a gauge is not good,i just don't know how to read what its telling me.
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