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HVAC, Aqua Hot, Primus, Webasto, Chassis Heaters, Furnaces and Water Heaters Questions and information about the wide variety of Heating and Air Conditioning as well as Water Heater systems available are discussed here.

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  #1  
Old 10-21-2009
Jim Magowan Jim Magowan is offline
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Default Water purge system

When I tried to purge the water lines after this past weekends trip (this must be done every time we go out from now until breakup) I couldn't get air pressure in the lines.

We found the air was going into the water tank. Removed the water tank (half a day's work) to get at the solenoid and found it was too hot to touch.

While trying to figure out why the solenoid wouldn't cool I had a brainstorm. The water fill on off switch is located where the shore power cord can hit it and turn it on. The solenoid controls whether water goes into the tank or directly to the water lines and it also controls whether purge air goes to the tank or into the lines. Sure enough, when plugging it in, the power cord had switched the water fill switch to ON so the air went into the water tank.

Taking the water tank out is not a total waste, now we will be able to repair the leaks. (anyone know where a replacement tank for an SP can be located?)

Does anyone know where toget a new water fill system solenoid?

Since solenoids can and do fail, on occasion we are trying something unorthodox with Blue Bird. Whenever possible we are moving things to accessible locations. The solenoid is on the water line next to the rear heater core under the drawers. Easy to find, easy to look at and almost impossible to remove with the water tank in place.

We are contemplating moving the solenoid to the water pump compartment and using a slightly longer feed line to the water tank. Has anyone tried doing this? Any comments or suggestions?

On a different topic; a couple of years ago we replaced the inverter with a new Xantrex 2000. This is one of hte best upgrades we have made. Our SP, like many if not all, blue Birds of this vintage was murder on batteries even though it is always plugged in when it is not on the road.

The problem is that when driving with heaters and lights on and possibly using the inverter, the alternator does not put out enought juice to fully charge the batteries (we usually had between 12.3 and 12.6 volts). On shore power the charge was 12.6 volts. The chargers were not intended to fully charge the batteries, just keep them up so they would charge when driving.

The Xantrex witha 3 stage charger and desulphation keeps the batteries fully charged on shore power and with the generator. Since all our camping is without plug ins the batteries and generator get a lot of use. Teh house batteries were beginning to weaken ( 12 or 18 months old) when we replaced the inverter. Now, over four years old, they are better than when the inverter was replaced.

When the inverter was replaced they did not go in and disconnect the switch for the old inverter in the panel beside the driver. A couple of weeks ago while driving toward Seward we smelled smoke. We determinedh te odor was strongest up front. I swung the TV out and smoke was pouring behind it from behind the passenger side compartment. I found a small (2-3 inches cube) part with a tag that said BB inverter component that was melting and smoking. Too hot to hold without leather gloves.

I cut the wires and removed it. As far as I can tell the on/off button on then old inverter panel had been pressed ON probably by the dogs stepping on it to bark at something outside and while it was no longer controlling an inverter it put power to the component in the overhead.

If you put in a new inverter and no longer use the BB system I strongly recommend disconnecting power to the switch and removing the inverter relay or whatever it is from the overhead if your system is the same as ours.
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Old 10-21-2009
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Rick Rick is online now
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The Sporlan Valves are available from Stephen at Dupree Products. As far as tanks go, I've read, they are no longer avaliable.
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  #3  
Old 10-21-2009
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DennyCayman DennyCayman is offline
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There is a tool call a plactic welder can be bought at Harbor Freight $30 to $50 if you feel handy you have to determine what type of plastic the tank is and get the right type of welding rods, it not handy check at a radiator shop or a body shop either may have the equipment to do the job.

Good luck.
Denny
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  #4  
Old 10-21-2009
tulipvendor50 tulipvendor50 is offline
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Default Water purge system

Jim:
Red dot makes the solenoids as well - industrial style - brass.
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Old 10-25-2009
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Rich Johnson Rich Johnson is offline
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Hello:

No matter how successful you are in fixing the water purging system, be sure to clean out big ticket items like the water pump, and watercloset valve, and vacuum breaker. Hot water tank is also right up there in importance. I wound up completely redoing the entire system to make it to be reliable.
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  #6  
Old 10-26-2009
popeye
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I've been reading all the "winterization" threads, and been through what came with my 84FC. I keep seeing references to the BB "water purge system" and references to the BB manual but I don't appear to have any of that. This will be my first winterization of the bus and I'd appreciate pictures, manuals excerpts and any other hands on kinds of thing that will help me identify what I'm looking for - and how to use it!

TIA
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Old 10-26-2009
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I found the controls behind a door in the isle under the bed.
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  #8  
Old 10-26-2009
tulipvendor50 tulipvendor50 is offline
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Default Water purge system

Hi there:
On my 84 coach, towards the back of the bed, there is a small door, which has three controls in it.

Now trying to remember, because I have modified my coach.
  • There is a switch for the drain of the hot water tank. You need air pressure for this.
  • There is a control know, which controls a valve with a cable for the main water tank drain.
  • There is a switch for the water purge system, which blows out the water lines.
There are two other valves which might have to be opened, one in the bathroom, there should be a little cubby hole near the floor rear of the heater, and the other is in the propane tank area.


You have to blow the lines clear etc. But having said that, this does not mean that all of the water/moisture is out of the lines.
I have changed all of my lines to pex, because of this breakage, also put in a bypass on the hotwater tank, and a three way valve so I can pump in the RV antifreeze.

Problems I had with this cold - low spot in line did not get blown clear and it burst. Although I thought I had hot water tank empty, it wasn't, and the piping was bent so installed a new one. The toilet valve had some water left in it as well, and since it is just plastic, it split as well.

Hope this helps. If you need any more help just give me a call.
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Old 10-26-2009
Bumpersbird Bumpersbird is offline
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There are a few words of caution here.

The purge system is flawed. if the check valve malfunctions in the purge system at least on the PT's, it can fill your brakes and air bags with water, neither is a good thing. Just ask the guys this has happened to and you'll disconnect the system and make them independent from each other

Once you purge your system adding anti freeze the RV type of course, to the system will help to keep your pipes from splitting.

Do I do this NO!

I don't winterize my coach, I keep her running year round we use her whenever we can so it's not something I do.
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  #10  
Old 10-26-2009
tulipvendor50 tulipvendor50 is offline
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Default Water purge system

Kurt:
Do I know about this. Had it happen twice, thought I had fixed it the first time, now I just leave it apart and plugged. I can always connect it to do he purging.
One trip I ended up rebuilding my generator slide valve on the side of the highway, stopped and wanted to check the oil so the wife could make dinner, well the stupid thing would not go back in.
I have almost had to rebuild most of the air valves due to the gummy mess it made, not a good thing, and there was no water in the tank, just everywhere else.
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