Xantrex installed, Redi-line removed - now wont start...

[Robmk2]

Hi Gang,
I am sure that this is a simple fix.....and I promise I will get under the coach this weeknd and trace out where all those bloody 12 volt cables go - till then....
Here's the story - Removed the old rediline and associated solenoids - Kept the old isolator (3 lugs and finned) - capped off all the old wires going to the rediline (4) and solenoids (2).
Installed the inverter to the batteries direct to the top posts with 2/0 cable - redid the old battery lugs with 3/8" bolt on type - (note -I just have 2 Biiiig 12v batteries in parralell). Wired the 120v to & from the inverter, redid the breakers in the panel and wow! - it charges and Inverts just as it should.
Now try to start the engine - no problem - starts first kick - beautiful....Let it run for a few minutes to air up the bus then shut down. A few hours later try to start again - just get a feeble click from the little remote solenoid in the engine compartment. Check the battery charge state via the Xanttrex remote readout - 13.5 v and just 10 amps charge showing so I presume pretty well charged.
I guess my next step is to get under the bus and check all the connections to the main starter solenoid, - check its getting power and is working ok.
Anyway - question - I think I'm going to ditch the isolator and simplify the wiring as it seems way complex for a simple system...I think the genny battery has its own charger (12kw perkins) built in - so I don't need the isolator...- anyone done this redi-line/isolator removal and have I indeed already disconnected any wires/ not disconnected any wires that I should/shouldn't have that could be causing the no-start situation?
Hope this makes sense to someone out there.....
Thanks in advance for any advice

[gcyeaw]

Rob,
The fact that it started the first time indicates that you probably have the wiring correct. Since you connected the charger/inverter directly to the batteries I would remove and clean all the battery connections and ground connections. first. I don't know the witing cabeling diagram, but it is also possable that if you removed the main wire to the starter you may have disturbed the connection at the starter, then you need to get slim and dirty under the bus.

[HPRCoach]

Rob,

Make sure you still have the batteries gounded well to the chassis.

When you installed the Inverter ground wire directly to the battery, did you remove the ground wire that ran from the batteries to the ground lug on the back of the engine compartment(battery to chassis)?

Did you install a shunt with the inverter system? It should be installed in the ground circuit between the batteries and ALL the loads.

Starting at the negative post of the battery, there should be a 2/0 or larger cable going to one side of the shunt, then a cable from the shunt to the chassis and one to the inverter. Make darn sure there is a GOOD ground from the shunt to the chassis- very important! Otherwise your coach loads and starting load may find a ground thru other, possibly smaller wires, which may take the load of a start cycle (or 2).

My 85PT40 had the positive cable from the battery going to the starter post on the starter, and then from the starter post to the Redi-Line compartment where the rest of the coach gets its power.

I moved the positive cable that ran from the starter to the rest of the coach. Now, a cable runs from the batterys to a POWER POST above the batterys, then from the power post to the remainder of the coach, not going to the starter first. Shortened the cable a bit and now, no stacked cables at the starter.

You might also check that starter stud that the positive cable is connected too. If you would have loosened that nut, you have also slightly loosened that stud. I had the stud be loose, started intermittently. I thought something was wrong with the starter cuz if you pecked on it, the starter would intermittently crank. Was just the stud making suifficient contact once in a while...

That should get er done....;~}

Later

[Robmk2]

Thanks for the replies - I am certainly looking forward to a weekend or cable removal/ tracing / terminal cleaning / extra wire removal. Knowing my luck it will be raining some and nasty out. Anyway - must go - I have to lose about 50 lbs in the next 3 days to squeeze under the bus, and also go buy some new glasses that will allow me to focus 3 inches in front of my nose

[iamflagman]

Originally Posted by Robmk2

also go buy some new glasses that will allow me to focus 3 inches in front of my nose

Rob,

Make sure that you spend an hour or two non-stop looking at stuff on the computer, preferably in a small print, before you go directly out to your 'Bird to work on it. That will really screw up your close up vision, no matter what power of lens that you have in your glasses........................well at least it does mine anyway, good luck

[Robmk2]

OK! it be Fixed!

Turns out the ground strap was corro-melted (corroded out and melted) at the starer stud. The two negative (ground) cables for the old rediline had been previously attached to the same stud so before, when starting (before I pulled out the rediline) I'm sure that some of the cranking amps also went to ground through these two number 2'ish cables and all was well.

After disconnecting the rediline it then meant that that cranking current had to go through the ****** marginal ground strap and it was sparking up a storm at the stud,....but no cranking. We Replaced the groung strap and now its back to "click..Broom!".

As for the new glasses and losing the 50 lbs...I used my skinny son in law instead (Hee-Hee!)

Thanks for the help gang

[Randy Dupree]

Rob,thanks for posting the "fix" to your problem!
it was good to find that problem at home,it was just a matter of time before it would not start on the road somewhere!
Randy