88FC swing radiator???

[Bruce]

If nominated I will not run. If elected I will not serve!!!!

Opening up an 87 to 89 rad on the side of a road would be one big PITA. Where do you put the 10 gallons of AF from the rad. I carry a Rubbermaid storage container, the clear type,that is just a little larger than a dish drain pan. I also carry 2 Relaince foldacarrier water containers. These are available at Wal Mart, REI or any good sporting goods store. Less than $10.00 each


//http://relianceproducts.com/consumer/product/83.html

The Gates heavy duty rad hoses are very expensive. I used Rock Auto http://rockauto.com

Good service and about half of what NAPA wanted. My silicone hose and clamps were bought online from Ryder Fleet products.
http://ryderfleetproducts.com

I used the Breeze style clamps. Pricey but work so much better. You will need a lot of clamps!! Before changing the AF I did some research. One needs a degree in Chemistry to understand today's AF. I read the Cat machine fluid recommendations on their web site. One has 2 choices: A Cat ELC1 approved long life coolant or a low silicate AF that meets ASTM 4985. The latter requires coolant supplement. I went to at least 3 Auto Parts stores and Wal Mart. Wal Mart's extended life coolant is a "4985" coolant. They also have distilled water for 72 cents a gallon. Bill pape wrote an article in one of the other forums on this subject. Seems he is always the Pioneer!!!!

[stanley7140]

Sounds like I need to start collecting parts and put this on my to do list befere summer. Hopefully the clutch will be alright and it will just be the hose (I wiggled the hose and the leak didn't get worse, so it's not very likely). It does seem to leak less when the pressure is above 60-70 psi.

When I go the bird the compressors was running all the time and governor was set at 85 psi. I bumped the governor to 115. The dash gauges always stayed between 112 and 115 (they're not actually that accurate, but that's about all they moved), and the spitter kept going off about every minute. I put a gauge on the wet tank and found that as soon as the governor hit cut out, the pressure dropped from 115 to 90 in aobut one second, and then the pressure started building up again. Endless cycle with the compressor never getting a rest.

Turns out there was an issue with my AD-4. I put an AD-9 on today and it works great now. Cuts out at 115 and the gauges just sit there. When I pump it down the compressor cuts in at about 90. I also put a muffler on the AD-9 (same muffler would fit an AD-4). It sure is nice not hearing the loud spit when the compressor cuts out.

Funny the BB shop I paid to inspect the bus before I bought it didn't notice that - not all that funny.

[Bill Pape]

There has been more interest in opening the Swing Radiator on the 87,88,89 FC.

I wrote this up for another owner , it may help someone,
Opening the front-end on a 1987, 88, 89 FC.
Close the two red handled gate valves, driver side high up next to 3208.
This will close off the coolant to the rear, I hear it is difficult to purge
the air out of the rear coach heaters. There is a procedure in the book for filling and purgingthe rear heaters.
Drain coolant into a container, about 8 to 10 gallons. The whole system is
about 20+ gallons.
Be sure the radiator **** pet valve is in the horizontal position, as not to
hang up, and get bent, when the radiator is swung open.
Unbolt the bumper, rest it on wooden blocks, Will need two people or a
floor jack to reinstall.
I use a battery operated screwdriver to remove the 16 Allen screw/bolts in the
grill.
You need a special tool to replace these Cert Nuts, so hopefully they are
not rusted or stripped.
If any of these Cert Nuts are loose in the metal skin, you could try to use
a nut, washer,and bolt to try to tighten them. Use silver or copper antiseize on the bolts when reinstalling.
Remove the WANDERLODGE name plate.
Remove screws from right side Amber light mounting bracket, Do not disconnect the wires, store the light in the open area.
Remove the two 3/4 inch bolts behind the amber light.
Above the radiator cap remove the rubber air dam flaps and the metal strip,
mark the metal strip and screw holes left to right side.
Use a 7/16 ratchet box wrench, I tie a string around the end and wrap it
around my fingers / wrist.
This helps to ratchet back and forth and loosen the air tube sleeve
clamps. This is a small tight space.
Crawl inside the doghouse:
Loosen the top radiator hose clamp, and remove the sensor wire at the top of the reservoir tank.
This wire may not be long enough when radiator is open.
This is a good time to use a flashlight to look left and down behind the A/C
pump to see the two rear backing nuts for the thermostat housing. There are
three bolts on the t-stat housing, two have nuts.
If you want you can remove the air to air cooler, and the big piece of
supporting steel across the front of the radiator / cooler, but it is not
necessary unless you want to remove the entire radiator. Four more bolts take out the radiator,
this is sometimes a good idea for a lot more room to work.
If you can get the top radiator hose loosened, It is ready to swing open.
It only opens at about a 45 degree angle, There is a stop at the left
hinge. Try to lift and pull, use a flat bar.This will take some weight off as it drags when opening,
Also the bottom radiator hose drags on a lower steel cross members, open
slowly, Maybe use a prybar.
Four more bolts will remove the Fan shroud. If it is necessary to remove the fan, Check the nuts, they could be one time use crush nuts ,
or nylon locking nuts, replace with new and / or use lock tight On some repairs, It may not be necessary to remove the fan as I worry,
about the nuts and nut torque, and if that fan loosens up, it can cause major damage.
It is a tight area, but I was able to replace the hoses, t-stat and later
the Alternator.
But most mechanics would remove the fan, I was just a coward, making the
job just a little more difficult.
In closing, the left air cooler hose will need to line up first, then the
right and the radiator hose at about the same time, this is a two person
job. Someone needs to be inside.
Patty does not like to be in the Doghouse. But, that is my favorite place as
I have some experience in Doghouse.
That should do it !
__________________
Bill 88 FC Michigan

[fxdwg]

Dave,
Just my 2 uninformed cents on the issue of coolant type. Get the ELC2 long life coolant. I've got the low silica in my F250. It's not much of a pain, but you do have to check the additive levels every so often and then have to add the SCA additive once in a while. With the new ELC2, you only have to watch the level, you never have to check additive levels or add additives. Less stuff to do, means more time to travel! The downside to switching to the new is you really need to ensure a CLEAN cooling system before you put in the ELC2. The old and new coolants don't like each other at all! From your report on pulling the hills, it sounds like a rodding of the radiator or a new core may be in order anyway. So you're not too far from really flushing the system.

[Bill Pape]

Originally Posted by fxdwg

Dave,
The downside to switching to the new is you really need to ensure a CLEAN cooling system before you put in the ELC2. The old and new coolants don't like each other at all! From your report on pulling the hills, it sounds like a rodding of the radiator or a new core may be in order anyway. So you're not too far from really flushing the system.

Dave & John,

This is good information, But on our 88 FC only about 8/10 gallons will drain out of the radiator of a total of about 22 gallons. Lots more coolant in the block, trans cooler, and the chassis heaters, So the system will need to be opened, purged , flushed and pumped clean. Then the coolant will need to be replaced and probably pumped through-out the system to purge all the air out.

[Bill Pape]

Here is some information about how to open the front end of your 87FC.
Read this entire thread. THe information posted was two years ago, but still pertinent.

There is more info on the old Yahoo forum, just join this group, John Finn will approve your membership, this may take a few days.

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/wanderlodge/files/

In the files area scroll down to "Swing Radiator 87,88,89 FC", for the procedure.

Dick Gideon & I also have pictures in the Yahoo photo section.

This will keep Ya busy reading for awhile in the sub zero weather,
Ask again if more help is needed.

[markbragdon]

Thanks, Bill
This is quite a project! I really appreciate the trouble you went to. It is 15*F and getting lower. I would like to do many things once the radiator is open. Two weeks before I start south. And a slight right shoulder procedure to boot! Sounds like fun. Thanks for your help.

[Bill Pape]

Mark,

15* may not be the time to work on the front, unless you have indoor availability. Since you just drove from Fl. things may be in relatively good condition. You could lay on the ground under the front bumper, look-up, and check the belts for tension and wear, check the big pulley tensioner for the water pump. Also check for coolant leaks, If you feel comfortable, make an informed decision then take your chances.
But opening the front end on your 87FC is not a side of the road repair.
Possibly ask the PO (previous owner) when the belts were change.
John Finn has a great web site for pictures,

press the next or previous in the upper right corner, John has a good procedure for tensioning the belts.

Lots of great pictures here;

http://www.pbase.com/iamflagman/image/84724286

http://www.pbase.com/iamflagman

[markbragdon]

The belts were new when I left FL. The PS belt needed tensioning when I got to ME. I can't seem to reach high enough to to check all the belts from the ground. This would be a lot more fun in May! 17*F @ 0847.

[Stick Miller]

Don't feel like the lone ranger - it is 20 in Americus, Georgia! My in-laws have a summer home on Little Deer Isle, ME, near Stonington. Is that anywhere close to you?