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-   -   Diesel Fired Heaters (chassis heat)-Classic lines/modern change (https://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4834)

gcyeaw 12-01-2009 08:11 PM

Diesel Fired Heaters (chassis heat)-Classic lines/modern change
 
I have a Proheat diesel fired coolant heater I plan to install in my '83 FC. I could put it in the big bay, but that uses precious storage space. I thought I might work on a way to put it in the generator slide bay. I am not sure it would work out due to being directly in the fan wash and perhaps effecting the efficiency of the gennie cooling.

The last place, which I am hesitant to do, but would be the best for service and space use, is to mount it on the rear of the coach. I could put it where the ladder ends on the bumper, modify the ladder and use the diamod-plate box that houses the heater as the first step. Possibly add a bottom step to the heater mount making the box the second step.

The Proheat was designed to be mounted outside so this is not a streach as far as installation. But it would effect the classic lines of the coach.

Any suggestions? It is 2 feet wide and around 12 inches high and deep.

Turbokitty 12-01-2009 09:27 PM

Gardner,

I have a rear bath FC and when I installed a tankless on demand propane water heater I found a great "dead" space between 2 of the lower bins. My heater unit is about a 14" cube in size as I recollect? It really was a perfest fit for space. Plus, I was very happy to get the water heater out of the inside closet and below floor level in case of a leak. Hope you find a good spot!

NH Bill 12-02-2009 01:47 AM

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Gardner,

I would keep it in the bay, no question. Sounds like the Pro Heat unit is a little wider than my Webasto T 90, but I don't think its that much bigger.

* If you mount it to the back of the coach I think it will get full of **** even if it is designed to be outside. The Webasto is also designed to be outside but I really like it where it is in the back drivers side bay.
* The residual heat generated by the running boiler heats the metal case which in turn warms the bay and the plumbing under the bed too. If you put it outside, this will be wasted.
* If you put it outside I think it will look bad and if you try to incorporate it into the ladder, I think it will be a tripping step.

Ask me how I really feel about this :)

See my photo, did not give up much storage. I keep power cords behind it.

NH Bill

NH Bill 12-02-2009 09:34 AM

Here I am responding to my own post. I took a little time and added additional photos (in my post above) of the Webasto T-90 installation in the rear driver's side compartment of out 83 FC 35. We love pictures...I know they help me a lot.

NH Bill

Frank W. 12-02-2009 09:43 AM

Have you checked IFO the waste tanks on drivers side. On my coach there is about 2' open space running from behind the mud flap to the front of the grey tank.

Turbokitty 12-02-2009 09:57 AM

Great pictures Bill! Love dem pictures!:)

Frank, I too have the same empty space. It is/was for the gasoline fuel tank if the coach came with a gas generator for those who don't know? Would be great for extra house batteries etc.

gcyeaw 12-02-2009 10:22 AM

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Frank,
My front Cruisair takes up that space behing the mud flap.

Bill,
Your installation is probably the easiest way to go. Unfortunately my bays look like my garage, full of stuff and very disorganized. I used to be much neater, but I out-grew that.

I made up some drawings of the flow patterns for the various modes. I realized that when the thermostat is not calling for heat, the winter/summer valves go back to summer mode, and the water bypasses the heaters. I don't know if this is good or bad?

I am thinking about using a manual valve for the engine bypass. I will need to conserve power since the Proheat/webasto systems will use more than the propane heaters do; Mainly because the pump(s) are always running. If I could find a reasonable motorized three way valve that only drew power when changing, that would work as well.

I didn't show the engine preheat flow in these.

Mike Hohnstein 12-02-2009 11:07 AM

Seems lilke too much redesign going on here, how ever I realize there are many way's to accomplish a goal. I found locating the boiler in the RF bay to be convenient as access to plumbing, electrical and fuel supply to be very efficient. The first schematic with engine preheat valving looks like a good bet. I think I'll go there, but the hot engine really keeps the front warm, hmmmm. We wired the summer/winter sporlans to the boiler ON circuit, and this powers the rear pump switch too. The chassis heat plumbing is fine, it's those heater's that need revamping, speaking for my coach.

gcyeaw 12-02-2009 11:29 AM

Mike,
The right front houses the Xantrex inverter/charger already. That was closest to the batteries, but furthest from the breaker panel. I was balancing the cost of heavy copper battery cables vs lighter 110 volt wiring.

That's an interesting thought about the engine keeping the doghouse warm up front! I may find the 45k btu unit needs the extra load of the engine to keep from short cycling in not-so-cold environments.

I really didn't do any re-design of the water system yet(unless I don't have it right in the first place) except to add the bypass.

NH Bill 12-02-2009 07:48 PM

Coolant Heaters; Webasto, Pro Heat
 
The original title of this thread is not conducive to future searches. John may want to redirect it or re title it. Thus the sub-heading above.

The way I wired the Webasto is somewhat diffeerent to what Mike posted above. However my installation shares some common elements.

Mike is correct about the heated engine keeping the front warm. I don't think the block by-pass is needed. Just complicates things and one more thing to forget.

Wiring wise, I too have the Aux pump wired to run when the coolant heater is on.I accomplished this by installing a diode in the circuit as to not interfere with the Aux Pump switch on the dash.

Likewise, I installed diodes for the Winter/Summer function on the sporlan valves and a winter summer switch for the Webasto at the purge valve compartment on the side of the bed in the back. This also does not interfere with the dash winter/summer function of the chassis heat when the 3208 is running.

I re powered the blowers from the accessory bus to the house bus at mid coach on the curb side thus providing power to the blowers when the key is off.

The last thing I need to do is install snap disk t stats at each of the three heat exchangers (radiators) in the coach to be normally off until I get to 130 or so degrees. Without those, I'm running the risk of forgetting to turn off the blowers wen the Webasto is off. the way it is now, the blowers could be not running because the t-stat circuit is not calling for heat. Leave the coach and come back next morning to running blowers and no heat or no heat and dead batteries! Need to make it as idiot proof as possible.

NH Bill


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