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-   -   Driver's side air compressor froze up (https://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27200)

JMBarnes 11-09-2016 03:32 PM

Driver's side air compressor froze up
 
Need help! The Rietschle Thomas air compressor engine is froze on our 450 LXi. What would be a comparable replacement? This is in the first compartment under the driver's seat. Losing air and have to start engine to bring pressure back up.:confused:

bryanaltier 11-09-2016 04:06 PM

Air Compressor
 
If the 120 V compressor has failed the 12 V should be able to keep up. Where are you loosing air? There are some valves to cut off each compressor.

JMBarnes 11-09-2016 04:26 PM

air compressor
 
Haven't a clue where we are losing air but know the toilet won't work. Is the 12v you are referring to in the 3rd bay? Thought that was only for airing up tires. Sorry we are completely clueless no real explanation when we bought the Bird.

bryanaltier 11-09-2016 04:58 PM

Air Compressor
 
There are 2 compressors in that front compartment under drivers seat, one is a larger 120V and there is a smaller one 12V next to it. On the front wall there are 2 gray switch boxes with a red (on mine) switch are coming out the side. The switch is marked off and auto in the plastic switch itself. Each is labeled 12 V and 120V on the wall under them with stickers. Make sure the 12 V is in the auto position and it should run. Takes a little longer to build up pressure. If the 120 V is not working turn that respective switch to off. Hope this helps . If you are loosing air and it is not building turn both off so you wont burn up that little compressor. I will be near my coach in about 30 minutes, call me 864-444-4879.

JMBarnes 11-09-2016 05:19 PM

air compressor
 
This really helps big time. The 120v is definitely not working (motor is frozen up). There is no lever to shut it off (broken??) We will try to figure out a way to turn that off and try a short test. We will call around 330 your time. You just don't know how much we appreciate this.

bryanaltier 11-10-2016 08:23 AM

Good Morning, Did you ever get power to the 12 Volt compressor?

JMBarnes 11-10-2016 09:41 AM

air compressor
 
No kind of gave up. Not sure if the volt meter was working or just no power which doesn't make sense since we know there is power to the 120v. Will keep trying.

JMBarnes 12-14-2016 02:26 PM

12v is working. Fuse had blown. New 120v compressor on the way but not due in until mid Jan. We were away from coach for about 4 weeks and it's great to be back at it. Life is good.

NoGas 12-15-2016 12:10 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Have a 2004 M380 with the same compressor setup as yours. Been fighting the "air leak battle" too. The 120V and big engine air compressors are designed to fill the whole air system, including the small section dedicated to slide seals, door step cover and toilet flush (on yours). Some owners use their 120V compressor either on shore power or through the inverter/coach batteries all the time. If you keep that switch on, your 12V compressor will never run because air from the big 120V compressor flows into the "small" part and that 12V pump is set to come on at a lower pressure than the 120V provides. The disadvantage of this is that if there is a leak anywhere on the "high pressure" side (like suspension dump valves, air manifold valves, brakes, lines, etc) the 120V pump can run continuously and either burn out or pop a breaker. There is a one-way air check valve that allows the high pressure 120V pump to supply air to the lower pressure "small" side. If both pumps are ON (or AUTO) the high pressure side air flows into the small side and the 12V compressor will never run because it's start pressure setting is much lower than the setting of the 120V pump. If only the 12V compressor is ON, that check valve stops its output from flowing into the now depressurized "big" side. Ideally the whole air system should work automatically. The only switch you SHOULD have to worry about would be the 120V Aux Air Pump ON/OFF switch for when you raise the air suspension by turned the dump switch OFF (say pre-departure in an early morning campground).

Now that you have the basics of HOW the system is supposed to work, what can go wrong? Ideally, hours should pass between pump runs. If less than say an hour passes between pump runs on an idle system with no usage by you, you've got one or more leaks somewhere. If the leaks are big enough, your compressor could run continuously and that would be bad due to the overheating issue mentioned above. BEFORE simply replacing the 120V pump you or your mechanic should trace down all the leaks! The push-pull fittings BB used are notorious for developing leaks over time. Using soapy water I found nearly all of mine to be leaking, some a little and some allot. I replaced the push-pull fittings with the permanent furl-nut style. I also found that the critical air check valve between the two systems was leaking air back into the 120V side from the low 12V side when parked and when I was using only the 12V pump (boondocking without a shore cord & the 120V pump turned off). I replaced the three Parker check valves ($29 at Graingers or 1/2 that online) as well as most of the push-pull fittings - shown in pic below. That fixed allot of my air "leaks" and pump-runs-too-much issues.

Only if you understand how it is SUPPOSED to work, can you then begin to figure out WHY it's not working as it should. Hope this helps and doesn't just confuse!

Hotvenm 12-15-2016 01:36 PM

You may want to check your start capacitor in the 120v air compressor. Would be much cheeper than a new one.


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