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-   -   37' BMC actual weight (https://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4102)

AC7880 09-16-2009 12:18 PM

37' BMC actual weight
BMC folks have discussed weights, GVWR before.

As a recap, as built, the 1994 - 1996 37' had a 12,000 lb front axle, and a 19,000 lb rear axle, 31,000 total. The silent factory recall axle upgrade was to a Eaton 22,000 lb model 22060S, 5.29 RA - theoritical weight 34,000 total. This was done on my 94. The 97s "should" have the heavier capacity rear axle from the factory as built.

We are packed HEAVY as fulltimers (sewing machine, quilting materials, tools, 4 season clothing, full cooking appliances, full load of foods, etc part timers might not haul).
Additionally, I have 7 group 31 AGM batteries (6 is standard), 3 solar panels on the roof, a heavier all natural latex mattress replaced the light weight original, and a larger computer center with corian top where the dining table was, and a fire safe mounted under that. We are likely heavier than all of the part timers, and maybe even most fulltimers on this chassis.

I used a Oregon road side weigh station yesterday (OR leaves the scales on when not open for business so you can weigh yourself).

Full fuel (around 140 gallons), 1/2 tank fresh water of around 50 gallons, propane around 3/4 full, both of us seated as for travel.

Left front 6500 lbs, RF 5500 lbs, 12,000 total.
Left rear 10,000 lbs, RR 11,400 lbs, 21,400 lbs total rear, 33,400 lbs total coach.

2005 Subaru WRX turbo wagon tow car with 2 kayaks on top, and two bikes on rear, full fuel tank, 3600 lbs. So on the hills we are 37,000 lbs total up and down the grades. I did install the US Gear Unified progressive tow brake on the toad.

I "might" look at moving a few items around to redistribute the weight a bit - but the way we are organized now works well for easy access to what we need. I'll also look at tire pressure charts again though I think we are fine there. I am running Goodyear G397 LHS 295-75-22.5 16 plys instead of the factory 275-80-22.5, with 110 lbs in the fronts, and 100 to 105 in the rears.

Any other real world weights on a BMC 37' either part time or full time?

bwinter1946 09-16-2009 12:46 PM


I am a part timer and I weighed my '97 37 foot BMC last July while on the road. I also used a "Closed" Oregon weigh station. I only weighed front and rear axles. I made no attempt to weigh the sides.

Configuration at time of weigh: Fuel - half tank, Propane full, (75 gallon) Black, Gray and (100 gallon) fresh water all half full.

Battery configuration: Two group 31s and 3 4Ds.

Storage bays full of tools, filters, camping gear, spares.

Equipment on the coach: two solar panels and charger, washer-dryer, entertainment system TV, VCR, stereo in bay, extra full Refer/freezer in bay.

1997 37' BMC GVWR: 36,200 lbs

Axle weights with my wife and I on board:

Front: 12,000 lbs
Rear: 22,140 lbs
Total: 34,140 lbs

Jeep Cherokee Toad: 3,100 lbs

I maintain 110 PSI in all six Michelin Load Range H tires.

fxdwg 09-16-2009 02:35 PM


I'd be either worried or suspicious of the cross weights on yours. You've got a 2400# difference from the LF/RR to the RF/LR weights. That's got to put some undue stress on the chassis!

AC7880 09-17-2009 12:06 AM

Not too sure how to solve it, but can move a few things around.

Left front 6500 lbs, RF 5500 lbs

Right front has the entry door, and propane tank behind that - so can't move any real weight over to that side. LF does have a add on 110 volt air compressor, and my 3 tool boxes - so I can move the tool boxes rearward on the left to help with balance - and put something light in it's place. I could do away with the 110 volt compressor and just use coach air. The 110 volt basement outlet is forward - so this is the best location for the compressor if I keep it.

Left rear 10,000 lbs, RR 11,400 lbs
I can move some of the heavier right rear items to the left, and lighter items to the right. The "pain" in doing so is that I have water hose container, sewer hose container, and power cord containers on the left rear near the utility hookups - and they are fairly light compared to heavier items on the right.

The futhest rear compartments on right is the batteries and left power utility - nothing to move and in front of that is the water and sewer tanks full crosswise - nothing to move there.

Moving some of the items in the bays in front of those 2 may help balance a bit more. The computer/dining center cabinets/corian top and safe are right side mid coach - and much heavier than the original dining table and chairs - those won't be moving.

Whatever I move around it will be a long while before I weigh again - stationary from now until April unless we do some short quick local trips. Spring is a planned Alaska trip - so I'll what I can do to even out some of the imbalance before then.


Originally Posted by fxdwg (Post 30121)

I'd be either worried or suspicious of the cross weights on yours. You've got a 2400# difference from the LF/RR to the RF/LR weights. That's got to put some undue stress on the chassis!

davidmbrady 09-17-2009 12:10 AM


Do you have an anti-sway bar on the steer axle?

AC7880 09-17-2009 12:37 AM

No the 94 BMC 37' did not have sway bars from the factory. The 95s and up do. I have found a sway bar I could add though.


Originally Posted by davidmbrady (Post 30204)

Do you have an anti-sway bar on the steer axle?

bwinter1946 09-17-2009 01:06 AM

Couple of things I would be concerned about before I started moving things around.

Are we sure we have a good weigh?

As I stated above I only weighed the axles and did not weigh side to side. The reasons were: I was on a time schedule and the ground surrounding the weight platform was not level. I did not see a way to keep the coach level from side to side or front to back and get a good weight at the scale I used.

So was the coach level when you were weighing the coach one wheel at a time?

Next is your ride height properly adjusted?

Also I have seen where a coach air leveling system is not instantaneous. There is a delay so the suspension is not chasing the road. In other words, I believe they can take time to adjust after moving around on uneven pavement. When I had my ride height adjusted by a shop it was not real quick to react and adjust. You had to drive it and give it time to adjust on level ground.

I am no expert on this and I could be wrong but it seems logical to me.

Just my 2 cents.

Lee Davis 09-17-2009 09:58 AM

BMC Weight
We have added and subtracted since our last weigh and moved a lot of stuff around so it's about time for me to do it again. I will put a note on when I do

I do love these new H rated Michelins. Makes me feel much safer than those G's I have 110 in front and 100 in the back, and the on board compressor works fine to get me to 110. Sometimes my wife hits the brake while I am doing it so it goes faster as it pumps back up. I thought about an auxiliary compressor, but didn't want the weight and needed the space. And with the Pressure Pros I can read the pressure without checking each tire all the time and am finding I don't have to add any air for about 2-3 months unless we go to a place with major difference in "cold temperature". So using that on board compressor has been no hassle at all.

Randy Dupree 09-17-2009 09:58 AM

Brad may be right,once you get on the scales you should roll forward and then roll the coach backwards,6'' or so each way,let the coach sit a few minutes before reading the weights.
Back off of the scales and do it again,read the weights.
If your weights read the same as our reporting right now,you can move some weight by adjusting either the right side or left side height control valve.

Weight will move diagonally across the coach when you adjust one rear HCV.

What you have now is too much down pressure on the right rear air bags,and thats putting extra weight on the right rear and the left front,you can adjust that weight with the HCV.

If you watch NASCAR you see them do this every weekend by turning a bolt on the racer,during a tire change.

pgchd 09-17-2009 10:19 AM


What you have now is too much down pressure on the right rear air bags,and thats putting extra weight on the right rear and the left front,you can adjust that weight with the HCV.
Randy, exactly how would you do that??..... raise the height of the HCV on the heavy rear, lower the heavy HCV, or raise or lower the HCV on the "light" side..... reason I ask is I need to make the same adjustment and this topic always confuses me........ what valve to adjust.... not hard to do when you are old and senile, thanks! :D

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