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Old 10-14-2019
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max hendrix max hendrix is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Weatherford
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Check your bus again a little closer. On my 96 BMC it didn’t look like the radiator was easily accessible at first glance but closer inspection revealed that it was indeed very easy to remove.

I used the jacks to lift the rear as high as possible. Block up with cribbage or use support stands Do not rely on hydraulic jacks alone for support. Disconnect the Louver lift supports and rotate louvers as high as possible and tie off to goat rails or rafters etc. Remove all the shrouds, CAC etc. Shrouds came out in about 3-4 bolted together sections Oil cooler lines could remain connected and will just drop down and pivot under the engine. Put a Harbor Freight ATV/ MC lift under the radiator and remove all hoses etc. Lower the radiator as far as possible and roll it out of its cubby hole.

Removal of CAC and it’s big air horns was like a puzzle that needed to be worked through a hole but it’s pretty light and can be turned at an angle to allow removal.

Be careful and watch your toes. That radiator is big and heavy. Having help is good but can be done solo if needed.

Digging a hole is a good idea but I would be very sure it was needed before committing to that plan. Much better IMHO than trying to lift the bus 4 feet up in the air.
If that was my plan, I would dig the hole at the edge of my concrete and back the rear of the bus over the hole.
I once saw some guys changing the engine on a combine with the machine sitting in about a five or six foot deep hole. It was just about perfect when they backed the pickup tailgate up to the side of the machine. Just be careful and don’t drop any tools down in the muck

I realize a BMC is different but hopefully this will give you some good ideas to get the process started.

Max.
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Max Hendrix
Weatherford Texas

96 BMC 40' Sold
2008 HaulMark Super C S&S
Freightliner Chassis w/ 515hp S60 & 12sp Ultrashift

Last edited by max hendrix; 10-14-2019 at 11:29 AM. Reason: Clarity
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