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Old 06-12-2013
Friday1 Friday1 is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Toledo
Posts: 1,545
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You can have continuity from - on the battery to ground until you try to make the starter crank. If your grounds are not shiny bright on the copper lugs and the frame steel, it is not a good ground. You first have to find out if you have 12 VDC coming to the Ford solenoid and going out of the Ford solenoid to the solenoid on the starter. If you don't, the problem is before the Ford solenoid-could be the ignition switch or neutral switch or any of the wiring that is between those two switches. A good trick at the parts store is to seek out the oldest parts guy. If the whole crew is teenagers, find another parts store! You say you had 12 VDC on both big lugs on the Ford solenoid. Then one of the small lugs had to be hot too. One of the small lugs has ground usually all the time. The other one is waiting for 12 VDC from the ignition switch...through the neutral switch to make power to go up to the big solenoid on the starter. The Ford solenoid puts power to one of the small lugs on the starter. The other lug on the starter has gound. All the time ground. All the ground wires-the one at the Ford solenoid and the one on the starter solenoid have to be clean on both ends. Lots of connections, lots of potential for a problem. I use a 12 VDC test light since you are just looking for power and seeing where it stops. Faster to read than a DVOM when you are just looking for power.

Rick in Ohio

Rick in Ohio
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1980 FC35, 1961 PD4106 GMC SN:326 Charter member of the Two Bus Club for now
I am in Toledo, Ohio
Rick Gunther
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