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'Bird Projects & Modifications Share with us that latest project or modification that you have done to your 'Bird right here.

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  #911  
Old 09-23-2019
badandy badandy is offline
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The crew has begun cleaning up the bus this morning. The sun came out and solar is banging away, it's going to be a good day. I plugged their extension cord for the power washer into the bus and they went "whaaaaaat". I just wish the paint was in better shape.

I did a lot of research on this dead LED issue this weekend. It's been very challenging to weed out the cheap Chinese junk from the good Chinese junk. Some places charge much more for the exact same stuff you can buy for $2. Knockoff LEDs, poor soldering, all of it.

Soooo I am replacing all of my F8T5 stuff with these genuine Samsung super efficient and super bright 11" well-made strips. LT-Q282A is what they call them.

- 1000 lumens while sucking 0.45 amps at 11v for about 5 watts
- The way you wire these is also more better than the cheap stuff. You poke a solid 16ga or 18ga wire into the metal clip things they have on the board. Much more robust than a 28ga wire soldered on a pad or those pin pr!ck clampy things.
- They are designed to be screwed down to a flat surface
- Made on a solid copper board, not flexible, not aluminum

Here's a link to them at Digikey. They are $6.21 each at qty of 10, which is think is a good deal. You still need a current limiting power supply for them, which I should be able to find/make for a few bucks each. I'm willing to spend $10/fixture to make this all work right.
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Last edited by badandy; 09-23-2019 at 11:32 AM.
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  #912  
Old 09-23-2019
badandy badandy is offline
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Bad cell-phone in-progress shot. Two guys started on it at 9 and they think they will be done today before it gets dark out. Not sure about that.
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  #913  
Old 09-28-2019
badandy badandy is offline
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I did some work on the stepwell cover today and took a little video since I had the big steel plate that the seat mounts off. Someone was asking about how it moved. It's using a power window motor/regulator from a Kenworth truck. The motor slides a giant pipecleaner-looking thing through the snaking tube with a slot cut into it. Easy peasy. I cut the subfloor out so I could get it down as low as possible. It auto stops and starts, too. The cover is a 1/4" aluminum plate with a 5/8" "skirt" around it with some heavy felt to rub the floor for support. The covering on the cover itself is that woven vinyl boat flooring stuff (thanks DW!). I love it, I feel very modern and fancy when I use it.

And here's a vidjeo just for yall for a change:

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  #914  
Old 09-29-2019
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Randy Dupree Randy Dupree is offline
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nice job!
slick as can be!
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  #915  
Old 09-29-2019
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atckip atckip is offline
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We could spend all weeks tech sessions at your bus Andy. Nice job!
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  #916  
Old 09-29-2019
tsdevane tsdevane is online now
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Wow!! At least I can say "I know someone who knows how..." Super cool

Timothy
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  #917  
Old 09-30-2019
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CrashTestDummy CrashTestDummy is offline
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It's missing something.....

Oh yeah, the sound effect from a sliding door opening or closing on the Starship Enterprise! . <vajeep>. <vajoop>

Seriously, nice work. How are you going to cover it? Are you building a platform for the copilot seat that will cover the mechanism?
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  #918  
Old 09-30-2019
badandy badandy is offline
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That part is already done - it's a giant 1/4" steel plate bent to fit. It bolts to the outside skin and the steel floor directly. The seat just sits on the round tube.

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  #919  
Old 10-09-2019
badandy badandy is offline
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I got all my new tank level sensors done. These are capacitive, non-contact. In the photo here you can see the grey and black tanks. The actual sensing elements are 1" wide 0.040" stainless strips on the tank sides. The black box with all the wires is what I designed and there's one down here and one up by the fresh water tank. All connected with CAN bus, which makes me happy. I had to hand twist 50 feet of 18ga wire for it though, that was not fun. I built it to survive 100% immersion in water and junk like that. We'll see how it does in the rain because those sensor strips are bare. I might end up coating them in something non-conductive. But they are very robust, unlike the circuit-board based sensors like the Seelevel.

They have so much resolution I can measure 1 tablespoon of water. I tried a teaspoon but it was inconsistent when running down the drain pipe. Yeah stupid I know, but it works really well.

Now I just need to put an overflow pipe from the grey into the black.

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  #920  
Old 10-09-2019
badandy badandy is offline
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Here's a pic of the water tank level sensor. I still have a few wires to button up here.

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