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Electrical Discussion of preventative/corrective maintenance and other technical issues regarding your coach's electrical system.

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  #1  
Old 06-13-2013
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susanmarycamilleri susanmarycamilleri is offline
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Default Replacement DN 50 alternator

My DN50 leaks oil. I have replaced the seal around the shaft but is still leaks a bit from the main return line under the body. Earlier this year I discovered that 4 of the 6 bolts that hold the back cover on were missing, resulting in a slightly bigger oil leak. After investigation I realize that someone that has worked on it in the past over torqued the bolts, As well as the 4 missing on the back three on the front were stripped. I was able to buy slightly longer bolts, and they were able to grip threads.

This place ( www.elreg.com) sells replacement DN50s (made offshore) for about $1400. They also sell an aircooled version

http://www.elreg.com/en/search?page=...ategory_id=393

This version is a drop in replacement. It is a Penntex. A list of the Penntex dealers can be found here.

http://www.penntexusa.com/WD4_1.htm

I ended up talking to the dealer here in Richmond BC.

www.brighouse.net

He recommended that I have my DN50 alternator converted to an air cooled version. He prefers to do that over selling the offshore DN50 new alternator. He takes the alternator apart and replaces only what needs replacing. He stated that the windings in my existing alternator are likely better that those in the new one. He also likes to replace the bearings with domestic made bearings. He then installs the air cooled kit.
He said that the bearings in the oil cooled version are lubricated by the engine oil and really never wear out. In the air cooled version they are sealed bearings and last about 200,000 Km and then have to be replaced. The alternator shaft is only supported by bearings at one end in the DN50, right at the pulley, so they get quite a force on them.
I plan on having my alternator converted and rebuilt next week, prior to my departure on my summer trip to Ontario from BC.
Interesting but in conversation he told me that a lot of truckers are getting their alternators converted because the EPA will actually charge truckers if their alternators leak oil (just what I was told, no first hand knowledge). I just know that I am tired of the oil cooled version, and the air cooled version looks good to me and actually is rated at 330 amps (30 amps highter than the oil cooled version)
The conversion/ rebuild will likely cost about the same, maybe $200 cheaper than the new offshore air cooled version.
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Courtenay, BC
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96wb42
Mid Door

Last edited by susanmarycamilleri; 06-13-2013 at 09:50 PM.
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Old 06-13-2013
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Rob Robinson Rob Robinson is offline
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Thanks Peter. I like options and that's the kind of info I need.
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  #3  
Old 06-13-2013
cire cire is offline
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I'm in the middle of pulling my 50DN. This will be the third 50DN that I have swapped out in the 75k miles I have owned this bird. I have reason to believe that the original owner replaced the alternator sometime in the first 30k miles. 50k miles ago I changed out my voltage regulator to a 3 stage "Ample Power" marine/bus voltage regulator. This obviously has not solved my 50DN failures.

I am shocked that I have had so many failures. My alternator has lived an easy life. Although my most recent failure occurred three driving days after I returned from Quartzsite where I dry camped for a week.

I am anxious to hear about your experiences with the air cooled conversion. I have had some oil leakage at the big drain hose at the bottom of my unit. (One or two drops after a days travel.) Oil leaking is not big enough issue for me to want to go away from the oil cooled options. Repairing the alternator will give me an opportunity to correct that leak.

My challenge is to find a reliable shop that can open up, diagnose and repair my 50DN. Your fellow in BC sure sounds capable. I hope I can find someone competent around Fort Wayne, Indiana to repair my alternator.
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  #4  
Old 06-13-2013
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susanmarycamilleri susanmarycamilleri is offline
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Eric

I have owned this bus for three years, I have put 18,000 miles on in that time and if things go according to plan this year I should just about double that this year. My alternator works fine. It leaked from the front seal but I replaced that last year and it doesn't leak there anymore. The old "O" ring seal at the shaft was hard and brittle when I replaced it.

Last year the main wire from the back ot the alternator to the main positive post broke at the end of the lug. I had to repair it on the side of the road. One of the first things this guy asked me was if there was a wire support on that lug. He said that is a common failure and they always add a metal support to that lug/wire.

From what I have read and been told, the oil cooled alternator is a 60's design. It works but there is a camp that believes it is no longer required, that modern air cooled alternators are better. I am going to test that.

My alternator has been abused sometime in the past as is evident by the stripped bolt holes. I would rather repair/convert/rebuild my alternator on my schedule rather than on the side of the road. If I didn't have any issue with mine I would live with it, but I am a little suspect of it's condition.

I will keep you posted.
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Old 06-14-2013
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I had to replace my alternator 2 years ago with a rebuilt unit. Later it quit charging and I determined the regulator was bad. When I researched regulators I found that the original had been replaced by a new model. Everything OK now. I suspect the alternator was smoked by the old regulator. You might want to replace the reg. The new unit is AC Delco 10503807
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