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  #1  
Old 11-17-2009
Turbokitty's Avatar
Turbokitty Turbokitty is offline
Timberlake Products Group
 
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Location: Clearwater
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Default Sub woofer install...

Just added a sub woofer to the FC. I couldn't figure out where to put it without wasting precious space. After much deliberation I decided to put it where the central vacuum system was. I have never used the vac. in 3 years because it is easier to sweep the hardwood floors in about 2 minutes. Plus I have never carried around the hoses etc. What is nice about this placement in my rear bath coach is that the sound reflects off of the opposite hard wall in the stairwell and carries well throughout the coach. This little jesse will easily rattle the windows and put my combined stereo output at 2000 watts. Works great with DVD movies.
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Ryan and Michelle Saari
Timberlake Products Group, Inc.
1985 PT36
1983 FC35RB Left me for Atlanta!
Clearwater, Florida
https://www.timberlakeproductsgroup.com/
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Last edited by Turbokitty; 11-17-2009 at 07:49 PM.
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  #2  
Old 11-17-2009
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NH Bill NH Bill is offline
1983 FC 35 "Casa Billisa"
 
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Looks good Ryan!

What is driving it?

Better keep an eye on your ears, looks like that thing could make them bleed!
I like your floors and the stair treads too.

I put a sub in front of the vac closet and it doubles as an end table.

NH Bill
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83 FC-35 SB "Casa Billisa"
2006 Jeep Liberty CRD
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  #3  
Old 11-17-2009
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Turbokitty Turbokitty is offline
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The amp is enclosed behind the speaker. You can see it in the first picture, 450 watts. I had to make up an adapter plate to cover the vac opening. I used a piece of 1/4" textured black ABS and routed out a step in the opening so the plate would be flush with the walnut laminate.

Sorry the floors are a bit dirty. I too liked the way the step well came out.

The only downfall to the subbass is it really rattles the flashlight!

Your woofer probably works well too?
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Ryan and Michelle Saari
Timberlake Products Group, Inc.
1985 PT36
1983 FC35RB Left me for Atlanta!
Clearwater, Florida
https://www.timberlakeproductsgroup.com/
https://www.ebay.com/str/timberlakeproductsgroup
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  #4  
Old 11-17-2009
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NH Bill NH Bill is offline
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Yes, I'm pretty happy with it. Made a huge difference! Its tight, not boomey but really fills out the spectrum in a way that simply cannot be done with small speakers. The nice thing about low end is that it is pretty much omni-direction and placement is not critical.

NH Bill
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2006 Jeep Liberty CRD
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  #5  
Old 11-17-2009
Jim Harvie Jim Harvie is offline
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Those are nice pictures, both of you. Sound is on my list, at some point, and when I do upgrade, I'll know who to talk with! Oh and Bill, thanks for telling me what "EPROM" stood for. I have changed a few but never knew what it stood for.
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  #6  
Old 11-17-2009
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NH Bill NH Bill is offline
1983 FC 35 "Casa Billisa"
 
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Yep, I got my priorities straight!... NOT

Still looking for the what may be a minor leak in an injector line and will likely be traveling to Florida on Friday without cruise control... but, we will have great sound!

Speaking of cruising,

Hey Ryan, now that we have our subs going, how bout we hit the strip on Clearwater Beach some Saturday night with the Birds!

...Just kidding, really not my style.

Jim, will be more than happy to share what little I know about the sound stuff. Just give a holler.

NH Bill
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83 FC-35 SB "Casa Billisa"
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Last edited by NH Bill; 11-17-2009 at 10:17 PM.
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  #7  
Old 11-17-2009
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Hey Guys, Obviously you understand the need for sub-woofers in our bus environments. With all that low frequency rumbling in a bus you cannot hear the music with those frequencies inside a bus so you have to amplify low frequencies above the background noise to make the music sound "pure".

Bus Conversion Magazine published an article I wrote about sounds in a bus years ago and I found the perfect subwoofer for all applications, bus, home, car, etc..

Check out www.subsolutions.com (not my company) and you'll see you can get great low frequency sounds without large over-sized woofers! It's basically a modified 5th order design and utilized 6" woofers to accomplish what other companies need 10-12" woofers to accomplish with older technology.

Here's some old pics of the woofers I held up in my '63 conversion while deciding on which to use and where to put them. Currently I use 2 subwoofers in my 78FC35 and they are only .7 cu ft in size! The only reason I use two was to get the load down to 4 ohms to double my power. I admin.. I like good clean bass. And these can fit under a couch, behind a seat, etc.. easy to hide so there's no visible trace of having them.

One of our own members (Fred Bellows - 90sp36 - Maunder Maximum) own's subsolutions and they manufacture their own speakers.. so you can cut out the middle man and actually deal with someone who knows busses!
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  #8  
Old 11-17-2009
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Ok.. here's the pics.. not sure what happened?
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78FC35SB & 83FC35SB Wanderlodge - "Putz'n Around"
'90 GL1500 Goldwing | '67 VW Rail | '82 CJ5 Jeep
eMail=Mike.Putz@cox.net | Web=http://mikeputz.com/
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  #9  
Old 11-18-2009
Jim Harvie Jim Harvie is offline
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Michael.... That is Funny!... You can use the others for serving trays!
I don't want to derail the thread, so maybe it can be added in another thread, if it's usefull enough.
Bill, Not sure how busy you are, I'm sure you're as excited about heading south as I am, but it won't take long to figure out where the leak is comming from on your injector lines, maybe 3 minutes doing it the way we talked about on the phone. Those hold downs, if they vibrate lose, will chafe and the line will start to leak, under pressure> as the saying goes, "see me now, or see me later" you may want to fix it. You're going to have to do it sometime! After you fix the leak, it will make things less messy, the smell, the fuel being sprayed all over, the fuel savings, and the saftey aspect. There are two ways that I can think of.
One is the best way, by changing the line. However, if I remember right, on mine, the lines I had to R&R, while changing the injector pump, had to be done in a sequence, because of the way they twist and turn within each other.... I used a 3/4" "crows foot socket " on a few, which is an open end wrench head, with a square on one end, for a ratchet.
The other way I would try, if it's a hard line to change, and if it's leaking in a fairly straight place on the line, which can be done in a half hr,(after you tune in the right radio station, crank up the subwoofer) and add the coffee to the coffee pot), would be to take a small tubing cutter (don't use a hacksaw, the steel chips can get inside of the line) cut the line twice, leaving room. and and install a compression fitting. Just make sure when you cut the line , and remove the part where the fitting will go, you don't cut it too short, and if the line's no good anyway, you may be able to either remove one end of the line, or carefully bend the line away from the others that may be heald down by the same clamp. Tighten the fitting tight so it dosen't leak, but don't crush the ferrel too much, as it may try to colapse the line.
If I were on the road, and I developed a leak, I may try to stop it by wraping a small piece of hose around the line, secured with a hose clamp, as a temporary repair. But remember, the line is under pressure sometimes.
I had considered leaving out the hold down lines altogether, when I changed my pump. It's a good concept, however, if you don't stay on top of them by tightening them up, they'll become loose sometimes, due to vibration, chafe against the steel line, causing a leak.
I put them back on, but I'll keep an eye on them.
Have a safe trip, Bill, and I won't be too far behind you!
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  #10  
Old 11-18-2009
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NH Bill NH Bill is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Harvie View Post
... but it won't take long to figure out where the leak is comming from on your injector lines, maybe 3 minutes doing it the way we talked about on the phone. Those hold downs, if they vibrate lose, will chafe and the line will start to leak, under pressure> as the saying goes, "see me now, or see me later" you may want to fix it. You're going to have to do it sometime! After you fix the leak, it will make things less messy, the smell, the fuel being sprayed all over, the fuel savings, and the safety aspect...
Have a safe trip, Bill, and I won't be too far behind you!
Michael,

Those subs are interesting and I look forward to hearing them some time.

Now, onto Jim's derailment...

Jim,
You post prompted me to go in and try to find that leak again Could not find it the first time and I can't find it now. It appears to be slight because all I did find was about a half teaspoon of fuel in the nooks and crannies below the injector lines on the driver's side after I had cleaned it out completely with brake cleaner and ran it for about 40 min last week and today for about 40 minuets.

Took on fuel and supplies and went through town and then on the belt way for a test run. She seems to be running great.

Just saw your post and did find a loose hold down and paint chafed off an injector line so I thought this could be the source. Put a new blue shop towel under it and ran it for about 5 minutes at varying RPMS. No drip on the towel of anywhere else. There is no evidence of spray or any significant fuel smell or mess. I tightened up the hold down and ran it again for about five minutes and still no leak. Not sure what I am missing but, at this point I am inclined to take her down the coast and keep an eye on it. Planning on having some other work done at the beginning of December in Florida. I will have this checked out then. Based on what I have just described, what do you think?

God willing, we roll south tomorrow~

Thanks,
NH BIll
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