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Generators In this forum we will try to answer any of your questions about the different model generators that can be found on Blue Bird coach's.

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  #11  
Old 06-30-2010
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Tullamore Tullamore is offline
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Which are the AC power wires and where do they connect to the genny? I always wondered if it was hardwired or if there are AC plugs somewhere on the back. {Thinking of what it would take to add buddy plug}
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1985 PT35 Wanderlodge
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  #12  
Old 06-30-2010
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Steve- the A/C wires come out of the genny near the back of the unit. They are in a hardened flexible steel conduit and feed a small, 100-Amp breaker panel up on the sidewall above the generator tray. To add a buddy plug, you have to crawl under the coach with the tray extended and install a new raceway with 6-ga or 8-ga wire to a large, weatherproof plug assembly somewhere near the outer wall of the coach. The wires are powered from the 100-Amp breaker panel. I'm in the process of doing that right now and will be able to post pics when done. It's alot of work, but not too expensive. Probably around $50 or so with the wire, outlet and conduit.
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  #13  
Old 07-09-2010
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Default Tray Roller lubrication

A few have asked about lubricating the rollers that carry the weight of the tray and allow it to slide in and out. The technical name for these rollers are "cam followers" and they are widely used in the manufacturing industry. On my tray, the smaller rollers are used to guide the tray and the larger rollers carry the full weight of the generator and motor. Some had become rusty and tight, so I proceeded to remove and clean the rollers. I used a large impact socket to drive the bearing and shaft apart slightly with a bench vise in an effort to directly oil the bearings, making sure to keep the nut on the threaded section of the shaft to avoid smashing the threads. After oiling, I used a smaller impact socket to re-seat the bearing into the housing by removing the nut, spacer and lock washer and applying pressure directly onto the inner bearing race. The attached photos show some of the steps.
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Shane Fedeli
85PT40
Hershey, PA

"Savor the wine of youth, for it is a drink that can be consumed only once”
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717-645-4912
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  #14  
Old 07-09-2010
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Thank You Shane. Another job explained so even I can understand.
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2000 LX
Vise Grips
Bellefonte, AR
F127656
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  #15  
Old 07-09-2010
Dan & Cindy Dan & Cindy is offline
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Replacement cam followers can be purchased from McGill Bearings and other manufacturers. They made about a gillion different sizes and types. The needle roller bearing style shown in Shane's photos can be purchased in a sealed variety as well as in a "solid" variety which replace the rollers with a split bronze bearing ring. They are also available with a port on the end of the threaded sub which accepts a drive style grease fitting. If you have clearance for the fitting (needs about a 1/2") then you can relube the cam followers without removing them using a conventional grease gun.

We use them by the case in the oilfield for heavy load motion control in really nasty environments. Some even more critical applications benefit from a hybrid design which replaces the rollers and bushing with a self lubricating Glacier Garlock Bushing http://www.ggbearings.com/_pdf/literature/1345.pdf.
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  #16  
Old 07-10-2010
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Default Tray Roller Part numbers

Thanks Dan. Was not that educated 'bout the rollers until I started this project. I figured since they carry the full weight of the genny tray all by themselves, they are pretty important in the grand scheme of things. The smaller, guide rollers are McGill "CFH-1-SB" cam followers. The larger, load carrying rollers are McGill "CFH-1 1/2-SB" cam followers. The "CF" indicated the "series" (i.e. black anodized finish, steel construction, etc... ) The "H" denotes that they are for "Heavy" applications. The numbers (1, 1-1/2) indicate the diameter across the face (not the roller) in inches, "S" indicates the presence of a grease seal and "B" denotes a hex hole for tightening. They all are supplied with a small plug for the shaft or they can be equipped with a zerk fitting to allow for easy lubrication. All of the ones on my coach had the plugs installed and given that they are not used all that often, it's probably OK.
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Shane Fedeli
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"Savor the wine of youth, for it is a drink that can be consumed only once”
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717-645-4912
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  #17  
Old 09-11-2010
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Default Remote Fan Replacement

A few years ago, I made the decision to replace the old, 220V fan with a much quieter Hayden 2-speed 12V fan. The new fan is powered from the coach's 12V power cable in the generator battery compartment. This cable normally provides power to the headlights, brakes and running lights, so it was adequately sized to handle the extra current. The new fan comes on low speed when the generator starts using a Bosch 12V relay that gets triggered by the solenoid that provides power to the generator's gauge cluster when the generator starts. It moves to high speed when the core temperature of the radiator reaches 140 degrees using a Snap-disk thermostat and another Bosch relay. Under full load, with all Cruise Airs, Electric Space heaters and the Battery charger at 100%, it maintains a 25 degree drop across the radiator and the generator stays around 185 degrees. To further quiet the fan noise, I installed insulation on the sides of the fan compartment. Photos of the new fan assembly and remote radiator are below.
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Shane Fedeli
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Hershey, PA

"Savor the wine of youth, for it is a drink that can be consumed only once”
shanefedeli@gmail.com
717-645-4912
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  #18  
Old 09-11-2010
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Default Tray Switches and locking mechanism

Prior to undertaking this project, exactly how the tray lock and micro switches interacted to provide voltage to the hydraulic ram was a mystery to me. Upon disassembly, I was able to rewire and replace the switches and also rebuilt the locking mechanism. These areas are nearly impossible to access without the front bumper and tray removed, so it seemed like a good time to replace any damaged, oil-soaked parts. When you open or retract the tray, a rocker switch in the battery compartment first sends 12V to the switch on the left. If the tab on the locking mechanism does not depress the switch, voltage will not flow to the hydraulic pump. Likewise, when you have the tray "locked", the switch on the right gets activated, turning off the warning light on the dash.
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Shane Fedeli
85PT40
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"Savor the wine of youth, for it is a drink that can be consumed only once”
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717-645-4912
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  #19  
Old 09-11-2010
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Default Kohler Generator Replacement

After several weeks of frustration, I made the decision to replace the old Kohler generator with a Stamford/Newage BCI164D1 brushless generator. We pulled the Perkins/Kohler assembly out of the tray, separated the two and tested everything on the Kohler. On the bench, the rotor, stator, brushes and regulator tested fine. Once running, I developed wild fluctuations in the voltage that could only be attributed to an internal short (or "running fault") in either the stator or rotor. After spending countless hours and replacing the voltage regulator 3 times ($150 each) and the brushes ($50) ; and having the injection pump rebuilt ($650) and injectors rebuilt ($350) because the "qualified" Kohler personnel said that nothing was wrong with the generator; Lynn at A+ Power recommended that we just replace the back end with a new brush-less model. The new unit was only $1,650 and required about $500 in labor to install. It is easily mated to the old Perkins- no adapter plates or other custom work needed to be performed to mate the two. The only modifications were 1) new mounting "feet" had to be installed in the generator tray to support the new unit and 2) the exhaust pipe from the Perkins- it had to be re-routed across the top of the new generator and down to the receiver cone on the coach. The old heat wrap would not work- so I have installed a spun fiberglass wrap and secured it with woven fiberglass tape, reducing the heat considerably.
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Shane Fedeli
85PT40
Hershey, PA

"Savor the wine of youth, for it is a drink that can be consumed only once”
shanefedeli@gmail.com
717-645-4912

Last edited by sfedeli; 09-15-2010 at 06:25 AM. Reason: New photos added
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  #20  
Old 09-11-2010
oldmansax oldmansax is offline
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Shane,

This is very good info! I am in the process of repairing my genny also. Where is your radiator located? Mine is in the road side front compartment right now & lays horizontally with a massive squirrel cage blower on top. I pulled it apart to clean it (thinking overheating may have been the cause of my problems) & found over half of the radiator covered with debris. I really would like to change the setup but noise is a consideration as I dry camp in a lot of quiet places.

TOM
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