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Generators In this forum we will try to answer any of your questions about the different model generators that can be found on Blue Bird coach's.

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  #31  
Old 07-02-2017
K Ridley K Ridley is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ICBM99 View Post
Thread back from the DEAD!!

So today, I'm going to attempt to pull the yanmar/kohler genset out so I can get the flywheel and other measurements so I can order a new gen head from Central Georgia Generator.

Any and all suggestions are welcome.

And if by chance you're in the Alpine TX area over the 4th of July weekend and want to watch and or help, let me know.

Progress pics to come (hopefully).
I just did this upgrade 6 months ago. The Yanmar takes an SAE 4\7.5. This is a relatively straight forward install. The hardest part is doing sheet metal work on the huge box they put the regulator in for exhaust clearance. John Hall has a good write up on the install. If you go with the brushless head there are 2 small wires that come off the ice cube relay in the control box that excite the Kohler every time you start it that are not needed. Also don't forget that you will need to bond the neutral with a jumper wire.
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  #32  
Old 07-02-2017
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Kevin is right, mine was also SAE 4/7.5. I've put close to 500 hrs on the generator head from Central Georgia with no problems. Most of these generators are stand alone and the big regulator box is for mounting gauges and controls. The regulator could be mounted elsewhere and the box eliminated, but with BIL Wayne Harman, we just modified the box to clear the exhaust. Very happy with it.
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  #33  
Old 07-02-2017
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So I finally got the beast out. I couldn't reach the stupid pin for the ram, so I had to do it the old fashioned way, took off the grill and bumper and used a engine hoist to to pull it. Now that it's out I can get to the cotter pin, and I'll pull out try for cleaning and re-sound deadening.

Any suggestions on materials for sound deadening? I was going to use the products from here:

http://www.raamaudio.com/package-1-2...-41-625-sq-ft/

I've used it in car audio and it works well for that, just not sure about this application.

Also I'm have a heck of a time getting the generator head separated from the Yanmar. It seems loose (ish) and I can get a small gap all the way around the bell housing, but cant seem to get it to fully separate. Maybe more force?

Man I wish I had a shop or at least a friend in town with one. It's just that more fun doing in the dirt.
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  #34  
Old 07-02-2017
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Matt, have you unbolted the drive plates inside? They have to be reached through the side vents. Even with those bolts removed, it takes some hammering on the center to break loose the taper fit.
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  #35  
Old 07-02-2017
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I guess I need to look closer, I don't see anything that is accessible. It doesn't help that its also 103* outside, I think the heat may be melting my brain.
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  #36  
Old 07-02-2017
96 Deluxe 96 Deluxe is offline
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Stephan from Dupree products has the insulation kit. Very nice stuff better than the original. Don't bother scraping the old stuff off. Blow it off with a pressure washer. Better results and a lot easier. The Dupree insulation really sticks! Like to everything! So it's best to plan your job carefully.
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  #37  
Old 07-02-2017
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Randy Dupree Randy Dupree is online now
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Yep,Stephen has the stuff,or you can use duct board,like the HVAC guys use.
Lots of threads on this topic.
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  #38  
Old 07-02-2017
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I have not had the electric end off of a yanmar,but i have had several off of Perkins engines.
On the Perkins type,you take the back louvered panel off,and then take that big bolt out,the housing will then slide off the rotor.
the rotor has a tapered mount on the engine end.
Put the long bolt back in almost all the way and hit it hard with a 6lb sledge hammer.
This is on a Perkins engine,not sure on the yanmar.
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  #39  
Old 07-02-2017
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Got the housing off, still can't seem to get the tapered end to come loose. I guess I need to track down an actual sledge hammer. I've been using a regular hammer, and I've managed to booger up the bolt end.

Still don't see anything else that might be holding it, in fact the plate that mounts to the bell housing is loose, it is just being held in place by the fan attached to the rotor.

When in doubt...bigger hammer!
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  #40  
Old 07-02-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alvahall View Post
Matt, have you unbolted the drive plates inside? They have to be reached through the side vents. Even with those bolts removed, it takes some hammering on the center to break loose the taper fit.
maybe it looks like a flex plate, remove bolt, turn remove another bolt etc.
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