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Electrical Discussion of preventative/corrective maintenance and other technical issues regarding your coach's electrical system.

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Old 06-05-2019
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Default WB House battery cables

Just wondering if there is a trick to getting the cables from the back of the inverter cabinet to the two banks of house batteries? I'm pretty sure each bank goes up to a stud in the back of the inverter cabinet, but I can't see the stud from below. I want to change out the cables in preparation for new batteries.



My coach has two sliding trays that hold 8 12V batteries, 4 on each tray.
Each tray has it's own positive and negative cable that goes up to the back of the inverter cabinet on and insulated stud.
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Old 06-08-2019
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After having to explain to the fire truck personnel why it takes 5-10 minutes and three different wrenches to completely cut all power got the coach it was strongly suggested that I install cutoff switches.
My fire/smoke scare turned out to be a self destructing headlight dimmer but having a fire truck (with lights blazing) follow you to your campsite tends to make an impression, so I installed a cutoff switch on the positive side and a 500 amp fuse where the ground cables converge. I used a marine two bank switch that allows selection of either or both upper and lower battery banks. Not essential but handy when performing removal or maintenance on either Hey

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Last edited by jimbonich; 06-08-2019 at 09:28 AM. Reason: Add photo
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Old 06-08-2019
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I'm with you there Jim.
I'm looking to replace my heavily corroded house battery cables and I'll add in a cut off. I like the two bank idea. I just need to find the time and make some space to mount a panel. I might do it with remote cut outs like I did with the starter batteries. Then I can put the cables where they need to be and the switch in a convenient space.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Battery-Guard-Specs.pdf (800.6 KB, 84 views)
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1994 Wide Body #106048 "Going Galt"
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Old 06-08-2019
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I also installed a cutoff for the three engine batteries. There were several weird cables and wires attached to the engine batteries that were added later and one that appeared to connect (or backfeed) both banks, defeating the purpose of the aux solenoid. I ended up rewiring the start batteries also and installing both a cutoff switch and also another 500 amp fuse on the positive side (cutoff switch interrupts the ground cable). Due to the high current draw, the starter cable is the only non-fused component—greatly reducing the chance of an electrical fire that some coaches have experienced. Having a thick non fused battery cable that runs all the way from the back of the coach to the front was not a great design

After having two Xantrex inverters fail within a year when installed in the original inverter compartment-most likely due to the heat of the adjacent engine compartment—I moved the inverter to an unused area behind the slide out took box in the closest storage bay. This provided room to add a second inverter/charger and also freed up space in the original compartment above the batteries for cables and the cutoff switch. This setup has worked well for 7 years.


I also installed a quick blow 250 amp fuse before the inverters, and using another two bank cutoff switch allows me to select either, or both, inverters.
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'93 PT40WB
"Hospitality Coach"
(Previously Pair of Jacks)
Saint Petersburg, FL
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Old 06-08-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiwi3 View Post
I'm with you there Jim.
I'm looking to replace my heavily corroded house battery cables and I'll add in a cut off. I like the two bank idea. I just need to find the time and make some space to mount a panel. I might do it with remote cut outs like I did with the starter batteries. Then I can put the cables where they need to be and the switch in a convenient space.
Oh sure-show me that cool remote cutoff switch AFTER I’ve already finished rewiring my coach!
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'93 PT40WB
"Hospitality Coach"
(Previously Pair of Jacks)
Saint Petersburg, FL
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Old 06-08-2019
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One tip you may already know but I didn’t until Shane suggested it was to use copper anti-seize paste instead of dielectric grease—which is non-conductive. After several years no significant corrosion on the terminals or cable ends.
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'93 PT40WB
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(Previously Pair of Jacks)
Saint Petersburg, FL
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Old 06-08-2019
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That Battery guard is pretty nice. I put it on my engine batteries to automatically disconnect them if I leave the aux battery switch in the wrong position and start pulling them down. It disconnects them at 12.2V so that they can't get sucked down by the inverter. Precision Circuits also makes a solid state version of our aux solenoid that I was looking at too, but that will be a later project - it works and I'm not going to change it just because...
I'm definitely going to copy your fusing.
In my previous lives I was both a sailor and a pilot, fire is a big thing to avoid.
That is some nice cable. Is it some special order or did you just put a loom over the positive cables?
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1994 Wide Body #106048 "Going Galt"
bruce.griffin67@gmail.com
334-350-8564
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Old 06-08-2019
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Jim - did you fuse the generator starter wire when you redid it? I'm just confused on which starter wire you were talking about.
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1994 Wide Body #106048 "Going Galt"
bruce.griffin67@gmail.com
334-350-8564
Blue Bird Map
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Old 06-08-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiwi3 View Post
That is some nice cable. Is it some special order or did you just put a loom over the positive cables?
It’s Aibole PET braided cable sleeve I bought thru amazon. The 3/4 inch size expands twice its size to go over existing cables after the ends are already attached. Then heat shrink it down to cable size. You cut it and fuse the end with a torch just like polypropylene ski rope. I really like it and am ordering other sizes and colors. The 3/4 size is only $11 for 25 feet
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