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General Discussion of preventative/corrective maintenance and other technical issues regarding your coach that are not covered in other Mechanic's Corner categories (ex. refrigerators, water heaters, and compressors).

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  #1  
Old 04-23-2017
cesalie2's Avatar
cesalie2 cesalie2 is offline
97 WLWB 43' Series 60
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Millington
Posts: 318
Default My attempt at installing Samsunfg RF18 Refrigerator

Many thanks to the pioneers before me with the Samsung regrigerator installs. i learned something from each of your posts and finally took the plunge!

Wanderlodge My Refrigerator Removal Experience 22APR17, Dometic Out, Samsung RF18 In.

* Disconnected Shore Power
* Turned off Breaker
* Turned off Electric Master Switch
* Turned off A-T switch
* Turned off Battery Switch
* Turned off propane master
* Turned off propane switch under sink
* Turned off detector switch
* Opened and removed refrigerator rear access panel

* Unplugged electrical cord
* Used standard screwdiver and loosened red and white wires at connector, base of refrigeraror.
* Capped, electrical taped taped ends and stowed to the side
* Removed water line and wiring, drainec and stowed to the side
* Removed propane line and capped with 3/8 Flared Plug

Now the fun begins on the inside
* Removed drawer under refrigerator
* Removed the contents of the upper cabinet
* Removed all the screws securing the refrigerator trim
* Pulled the upper and lower metal trim and set aside
* Loosened and removed the nuts on the door hinges
* Removed both doors and set aside
* Using small pry bar and cloth as to not mar the trim, slowly eased refrigerator out of the opening...1 inch at a time.
* When 1/2 the refrigerator was pulled forward, began slowly angling toward the front of the coach to remove.
* With valuable help from my best fried, we tilted the refrigerator out of the opening and carefully carried the unit to the carpeted area between the couches.
* Still have to remove the passenger seat and door trim to get this sucker out of the coach. Tomorrows task I guess.

Now back to the salt mines...as others have shared, Bluebird believes in building their cabinets securely. If a nail would suffice, Bluebird used 6 screws, Robertson and Phillips, 9 nails, glue and a bead of silicone.

* Removed the box built into the base of the opening that once held the 30 inch wide drawer.
* Cut the top in order to find all the screws and remove the drawer slide hardware and latch to secure the drawer.
* Removed the 4 screws securing the plywood floor and a reciprocating saw blade to cut the 10 nails securing the back of the box

A silent prayer, a few cuss words and Lynda's favorite yellow pry bar definitely did the trick.

A quick clean up of the area, wow, I didn't realize I pulled every tool from my bag and used them to remove the drawer box. Put the tools back into the bag and prepared for the next step, remove the upper cabinet above the refrigerator.

* Used a razor knife to cut all the silicone seal around the entire box.
* Using the cordless drill and phillips bit, removed 40 screws, 4 brackets and carefully pulled the pieces of the cabinet box apart.
* Even the small pieces of plywood that made up the ceiling, sides and back of the box were covered in mouse fur with at least 4-6 small screws securing each piece.
* Removed the face frame and doors intact, woohoo!

15 minutes with a broom and dust pan to sweep up my mess, followed by the Dyson Vacuam to get into all the nooks and crannies.

All in all, took about 2 1/2 hours to get the old refrigerator removed and the shell ready for Samsung RF18 refrigerator to be delivered Wednesday.

Using a local appliance dealer in Millington. He beat the Home Depot sale price ( by only $9, but 9 buck is 9 bucks) and for an additional $50, his warehouse guys will remove the old unit from the coach, remove the doors from the new unit, carry into the coach and place into the refrigerator opening.

While they are reinstalling the new doors and drawer, I will run around to the back of the refrigerator access and plug in the unit.

I like the level of service you can find in a small town.

Now, i am off to remove the passenger seat.

Something to ponder today...
I wonder if the water line I removed from the former refrigerator icemaker will fit.
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  #2  
Old 04-23-2017
Mallie Lennon's Avatar
Mallie Lennon Mallie Lennon is offline
1995 WB 42’ Series 60
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Eufaula
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Hello Daniel,
Looks good so far, but you may need to measure height with a tape.
The highest, most back point on the top of the fridge it the control box. Measure up, I think it may hit your wiring chase. It did on ours.
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Old 04-23-2017
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Rick Rick is offline
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Mallie is right. Its going to hit if its like Mark, Mallie and Randys. Once the chase cover is removed you will be able to push the wiring toward the wall and secure with wire ties.

If the fitting on the water line is not the same, an adaptor or a change of fitting will solve that problem.
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Old 04-23-2017
Dave Stokes Dave Stokes is offline
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My water line connected right up. You may also want to consider adding a few Birch plywood strips to either side of the inside of the refrigerator cabinet to hold the new fridge snug since the opening of the cabinet is wider than the new fridge.
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  #5  
Old 04-23-2017
rshrimp rshrimp is offline
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Are you going to seal up the vents or let it breathe outside air? I sealed mine up and then left vent space at the top to vent out the front. The heat has to go somewhere. I found my roof vent was plastic and had deteriorated and was leaking.
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  #6  
Old 04-23-2017
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Rick Rick is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rshrimp View Post
Are you going to seal up the vents or let it breathe outside air? I sealed mine up and then left vent space at the top to vent out the front. The heat has to go somewhere. I found my roof vent was plastic and had deteriorated and was leaking.

We found leaks on mine as well. Mike McGraugh sealed the roof while I sealed the wall vent. Randy did the inside fitting. I didn't leave space at the top as our whirlpool discharges out the lower front.
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  #7  
Old 04-23-2017
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cesalie2 cesalie2 is offline
97 WLWB 43' Series 60
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Millington
Posts: 318
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Today, Installed plywood floor in space where former drawer and cabinet "box" previously

Removed 4 each 1/2 inch wrench size nuts from base of passenger seat. Tilted over and removed the large nut and washer from the seat base in order to keep the wiring intact with the seat. Had to open the wire loom coming up from the floor and cut the red and white wires.

Removed seat and stacked on driver seat in preparation for new Samsung arrival on Wednesday.

Followed Dave Stokes advice and removed as much of the door pulls and trim to prevent damage during install.

Examined ceiling in the refrigerator for a wire chase per Mallie's admonition, could not see any obstruction. Measured from the floor to the ceiling where it slopes down and it appears to have 76 inches of clearance.

Measured from the face frame of the refrigerator cabinet to the lower wire chase and I have almost 25 inches of depth.

Will follow Dave's advice and add a few Birch plywood strips to either side of the inside of the refrigerator cabinet to hold the new fridge snug since the opening of the cabinet is wider than the new fridge.

Randy's suggestion regarding the ceiling vent has me thinking, have to do some measuring.

Thank you for the suggestions and advice.
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  #8  
Old 04-23-2017
Dave Stokes Dave Stokes is offline
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Daniel, Ron Books made a stainless steel cover for the roof to eliminate the old fridge vent. I bought one from him to seal my roof. He may make you one as well and his price was very reasonable. Here is the link to his thread and pics.

http://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.co...ad.php?t=25221
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  #9  
Old 04-23-2017
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Mallie Lennon Mallie Lennon is offline
1995 WB 42’ Series 60
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Eufaula
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I have found that every BB is slightly different. My isle was a little tighter than I liked with the curved doors and the more curved extended pull handles. We originally mounted ours with the cabinet flush, then we pushed it back one more inch, doors still open fine and gave us a little more needed room in the tight walk.
My wire chase cover is on an angle and I had to move it to get my back far enough. looks like yours is just fine. The wood on the sides is a great idea, I added shims to make mine tight, but I would suggest you wait till it is in place before you add the side shims. Also, the fridge is on rollers in the back to make it easy to move. I added piece of wood that allowed the fridge to lift just off the roller in the back to help stability. I removed the back cover of the fridge and drilled a hole on each side of base frame to put a couple of screws.
The air vent. I thought it might be a good idea to leave the roof vent to let the hot air escape. Found out on first trip that was a big mistake. All the hot air in the coach quickly escaped an we stuff a pillow in the hole to stop it. I did not want to have to pull the outside top vent and seal it, so I cut Foil backed Styrofoam and pushed two layer tightly in the roof vent hole from the fridge side. I also wanted to seal the outside hole grill but I wanted to retain access from outside as the electrical and water connect there. I took one piece of the Styrofoam and cut another tight piece to fit into the hole then closed the grill over it.
The heat I thought would be coming from the fridge is not what I thought it would be and here is why. A normal fridge turns on and removes heat for a little while then turns off. The Samsung basically never turns off. It has 5 different speeds and shifts these to maintain temp, so the heat removed is much cooler. When I installed mine, I split the power cord so I could easily attach an probe clamp. When first plugged in, full hot, it pulled 1.4A. Next morning when cooled down, it was pulling .4A. There is no start surge as in
a regular AC motor.
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  #10  
Old 04-24-2017
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NoGas NoGas is offline
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On sealing up exterior vents - I used 2" foil faced insulation board with aluminum sticky tape for the lower and a sheet of aluminum sheet metal attached with screws (as opposed to rivets), with insulation board under & everything sealed with Dicor for the upper. Doing this BEFORE you put the new refer in place is ALLOT easier. Some have sealed up their lower vent permanently, but I prefer having easy access to the back of the unit if needed. Of course, if you seal both inside venting top and bottom is necessary. Also, that access came in handy when running solar wiring. $50 to pull & place is a steal!

You'll definitely want to do something to keep the drawer/doors from opening when you take a corner too fast. Some have used the bolt or bungee methods. But I like my dual purpose telescoping rubber broom.
.
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