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BMC (Bluebird Motor Coach Unique Issues) If you have a unique issue with your BMC coach and it can't be answered in one of the other forums here, then this is where you can list it.....List your BMC Parts here too.

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  #1  
Old 05-12-2010
AC7880 AC7880 is offline
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Default Multiple problems on road

I had 4 back to back problems today on a travel day.

First problem started last week - Suburban SF42 40,000 BTU ducted propane furnace inop - blows cold air and sometimes short cycles on the blower. Took it to Uhlmann RV in Chehalis WA on Friday, and they troubleshot and replaced high limit switch. Tried it over the weekend and not fixed, back into Uhlmann today (Tues). They replaced blower (was pulling too many amps) and sail switch. I asked them to check board and gas valve as well. No labor charge today, and I headed southbound on I5.

I'm sitting in a rest stop for the night on I5 at Toutle River WA in order to fix problems 2 thru 4. I just tried propane furnace - blowing cold air. I should have had them change the board and gas valve while they were in there. Now I'll be going back in (elsewhere) for this service again.

So here I am in the rest stop fixing problems 2 - 4.

2nd problem: Electric kwikee step did not want to pull in when I left Chehalis. I wiggled wires, got the step in, and pulled the 4 wire plug to keep it in. Now in the rest stop, I just did trouble shooting, cleaned the ground - no go. After about 30 minutes I found a wire had pulled from a crimped connector hidden in the wiring loom - so that is fixed.

3rd problem, lights on left rear of coach real screwy today. Some too dim, some bulbs lighting that shouldn't be. I have the double layer Volvo fixtures. In the rest stop, I changed some bulbs, some connectors, and all 4 ground connectors (both sides). So far so good, but the fixtures and connectors look pretty rough. Will check w Stephen Birtles on cost to just change them all out.

4th problem, a couple miles out of Chehalis, boost gauge went dead, and power on minor hills WAY down. Clearly no boost. Out of the P7100 fuel pump is a vacumn? fitting that feeds straight through to a small copper fitting that disapears below, plus a 3rd fitting that goes to the line to the turbo that calls for boost. A month ago I added a second T on this fitting, to add the boost gauge sensor, plus still feed to the turbo. The new T "was" copper". It clearly did not like the weight of the T plus the weight of boost sensor with vibration, and it sheared off flush with the orignal metal (steel?) T fitting.

I travel with lot's of tools, but no easy outs and no taps. I pulled both Ts out, and decided to try and remove the copper sheared off from inside the metal T.

Not a recommended method, but: I slowly upsized on drill bits to drill out the copper. When very thin wall of copper was left, I manipulated the bits manually to shred out the copper, including using a awl. I did get the sheared copper out, and bunged up the threads "only a little". I blew out the T with air to get all copper shreds out, then sucessfully threaded the connector for the hose to the turbo back in, and have a operable turbo again.

No boost gauge (no sensor right now), so I'll need to shop for a new T, or 2 new Ts. I hope to find a steel 4 way T, to avoid having this problem again on the road. I'm happy I was not in mountain passes when all this happened.

So overnight here in the rest stop, in to Portland Oregon Jubitz tire center/truck stop tomorrow AM to replace all 6 tires (5.5 yrs old). I plan on Michelin XZE 275*80*22.5 H rated 16 plys. No sales tax in Oregen, and best price I found working the phone.

After that Silverton OR one night at a passpot america campground, then Newport/South Beach Oregon Thousand Trails for 3 weeks starting on Thursday. I'll try and get boost gauge re-plumbed while there. Will drift south after Newport.
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Old 05-12-2010
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Good work Dan.

With basically it all handled other than the furnace it sounds like you have things in hand.

I agree with the fix on #2 as it sounds like a bad ground or grounds.

Sorry about the "T" issues but at least you also have that in hand. It must have been "interesting" to drive it with no turbo boost. One thought: Would it be a good idea to remote mount the boost sender with some line so the weight is not on the T or four way fitting?

I just did the Oregon coast last summer. I hope you enjoy it as much as I did.

How far south are you going?

Good luck.
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Old 05-12-2010
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Default Problems

Ouch....No one likes multiple problems. It's hard enough fixing them when they surface one at a time .

Anyway, it sounds like you need a break. I don't know if Dungeoness Crab season is still open but its pretty relaxing kicking back in a folding chair and picking up a few of those for dinner. We loved that. The Oregon coast was one of our favorite travel locations .
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Old 05-12-2010
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Nothing will keep the mailman (retired) from making his rounds!
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Old 05-12-2010
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I should have said brass not copper for the 2nd (added) T.

First pic is of the original T that mounts on the P7100 pump back into original configuration. 2nd pic is of the sheared 2nd brass T - sheared part to left.

I'm going to look for a barbed 'T' I can put into the line to the turbo, versus hard mount to the original T.

Ready to hit the road shortly.
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Old 05-12-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bwinter1946 View Post
Good work Dan.

How far south are you going?

Plan now is for Florida Keys. Might take quite a few months though - we are in no hurry. Thinking OR coast to northern CA, cut over towards Utah, through Albuquerque NM to see son, Lawton OK to see daughter, down to TX coast, then generally towards the Keys.
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Old 05-12-2010
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The wierd light situation is definitely bad grounds. The ground for most light arrays is usually shared, if the left bank of lights looses ground, it feeds back through the lamp filaments over to the right side lamps back to ground(tail lights, common brake lights, etc.) and creates varying brightness in each lamp depending in the individual filament's resistance. It can seem very wierd indeed.
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Old 05-12-2010
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Default More Trouble

It looks like I still have boost problems. When I pulled out of the rest stop this AM, it felt like I had turbo boost - but now I am not sure. Later in the drive on some minor hills I definetly had limited or no boost.

I'm in a campground in Silverton OR. I removed the T for the boost line and made sure no debris is in the ports. I ran the engine in neutral, revved it, and feel no pressure in the line from the fitting on the fuel pump.

I may not understand normal operation. I "assume" the T on the fuel pump provides positive pressure to the waste gate on the turbo controlling boost? One end of the T goes into the back of the P7100 pump, the other end is a copper line to the head or block, then the final leg is the "elbow" that came with the number 10 fuel plate that feeds to the waste gate. BD mandates use of this elbow to control boost with the number 10 plate - port sizes matched to application.

In neutral with no load, but revving should I see/feel pressure in the line to the wastegate?

I headed off to NAPA and purchased a new T and installed it in the line from the fitting on the pump to wastegate. Pic below of new T.

So with boost gauge back in the system fired it up in neutral - and zero boost when reving. Should I see at least some boost under this condition?

Only changes this week were new PAC brake install, then the T shearing off.

I'm on the road 108 miles tomorrow to Newport Oregon.
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Old 05-12-2010
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i doubt you will have any boost when reving the engine with no load.
The hose that goes to the waste gate controls high boost pressure,unplug the waste gate and watch your gauge under load!
I wonder if your exhaust brake is closed all the time?
That will kill the boost for sure.And make your exhaust temps go through the roof.
If the EB is open,then I suspect you have a CAC hose off somewhere..
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Old 05-12-2010
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I agree with Randy. Turbochargers are load driven devices. No load - no boost. Therefore, you will not see any boost pressure in neutral.

Good suggestions from Randy about the exhaust brake being closed and a leak between the turbo and the engine on the intake side. FYI: Turbos are very sensitive to leaks on the exhaust side also.

Brads first rule of troubleshooting is: Start where the most recent work/repair/modification was accomplished.
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