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FC (Forward Control Unique Issues) If you have a unique issue with your FC model coach and it can't be answered in one of the other forums here, then this is where you can list it.......List your FC Parts here too.

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  #1  
Old 05-16-2010
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Default Mystery Wire....

FC gurus,

After completing all of my projects and buttoning everything up to have the bird ready for use I noticed the closet light by the fridge was not working. Replaced the bulb....still not working. So I checked for 12v and had none. Got out my 12v wiring schematics and found out which breaker it used and checked it......bad breaker. But I noticed in the schematic that it also goes to the fridge. Tried the fridge and it is not working either. So I jumped across the breaker so the closet light would work, but still no fridge. Went out and opened up behind the fridge and noticed there was no 12v + wire hooked up to the wiring block. Could have been pulled out when I was installing the new LP sensor and shutoff) There was a red "romex" looking wire coming from below so I assumed that was where the 12v came from, but after checking each wire I found that the red "romex" wire was just tied into the factory 12v wiring for the fridge (with wire nuts).

I took the wires that I knew were 12v + and - , and hooked them into the wiring block.......fridge appears to work now. That is the good part.

The bad part is that I have no idea what the red wire was for. I followed it under the fridge and into the bottom of the cabinet where the sink is, then it goes out through the wheel well. From there is goes back toward the center of the coach and runs above the frame, just ahead of the rear axle.

I don't think this wire came from the factory. There is no mention of anything like it in the schematics. Has anybody else found anything hooked up to the 12v circuit behind the fridge in their FC ? So far I haven't found anything not working. Seems like a strange place to pick up 12v for something that was added on, considering all of the 12v load centers etc.

Thought before I crawled underneath to try and trace it down further I'd give it a shot here.
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Last edited by Buckeye Bird; 05-16-2010 at 06:01 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old 05-16-2010
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Dan- on my PT, there is a single, red 8 ga wire running from the battery compartment to the reefer compartment. I've heard that in the '80's, BB used the same "basic" harness for both coaches and adapted it to fit the particular chassis. Perhaps you've located the same wire that I have. It went to a 30A resetting breaker in the rediline/charger compartment on my '85.
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Old 05-16-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sfedeli View Post
Dan- on my PT, there is a single, red 8 ga wire running from the battery compartment to the reefer compartment. I've heard that in the '80's, BB used the same "basic" harness for both coaches and adapted it to fit the particular chassis. Perhaps you've located the same wire that I have. It went to a 30A resetting breaker in the rediline/charger compartment on my '85.
Shane,

This wire is just like regular household Romex with no ground wire. Just one white and one black wire, but the outer cover is red. The wire is dead now that disconnected it from the wiring that goes to the reefer. When I first saw it exited down near the wheel well I thought it might be going into the compartment which houses my charger, but you can see it where it goes through the wheel well and across the top of the right frame rail toward the center of the coach. It would be easy to trace if it was still red where it goes over the rail, but it looks black with dirt like everything else down there.........

It almost has to be something one of the PO's or somebody they had work on the coach did.

By the way, did you ever get that Hayden fan hooked up on your gennie radiator ?
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Old 05-16-2010
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How about this as a possibility. I think the original refrigerators were 3-way. AC, DC and LP. I seem to recall reading somewhere that the DC wiring for these came directly off the batteries. Could that red jacketed 2-conductor be for that purpose?

NH Bill
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Old 05-16-2010
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I could see that as a possibility if it was the original wire for the original reefer if it was the 3 way power type. It doesn't show this wiring anywhere on the schematic though. From the schematic it appears it originally had the 2 way AC/LP that is has now. It is a head scratcher for sure.

Thanks Bill
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Old 05-19-2010
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Today I finally got a chance to trace down the wire from behind the reefer.
It goes all the way back up to the battery compartment, driver front, much like Shane described.

Both the black and white wires were apparently set up to be 12v +

The black wire went to the wiring block at the terminal marked "ignition", with an inline fuse. I turned the key on and checked for voltage and got 13.8 at the terminal and only 9.5 at the wire end back at the reefer.

The white went to a fuseblock with 3 fuseholders. There was no fuse in the block where this wire was connected, and the connection at the other end of the fuse has a wire that goes into a small rectangular box (probably some kind of relay) that also initially had a fuse attached to it as well, but one of those connections was broken off.

I still don't know why they would terminate at the back of the reefer unless it had a 3 way reefer at one time. I have looked through all of the schematics and blueprints that I have and have nothing on any of the wiring in the battery compartment, and nothing on this wire.

So I have made sure there is no power to either wire, and unless I find something that is not working I'm not going to concern myself with it much.
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  #7  
Old 05-20-2010
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Hi Dan,

I’m not sure this applies at all to what you have but the original refrigerator in my 91 Bird was a 3 way Dometic RM3804 which had an “Ignition Lock” feature. I think it’s function was to switch the refrigerator to 12 volt operation whenever the ignition key was on and also to delay the gas operation mode for a period of time after the ignition key was turned off so that the refrigerator wouldn’t switch to gas right away - giving you time to fuel up the coach without having the refrigerator gas flame come on.

The replacement Dometic RM2820 that I installed does not have that feature so the “Ignition Lock” signal is not needed. The noteworthy thing about this is that (at least on my 91 Bird) they decided to use a green wire for the “Ignition Lock” signal. Since the wire was green and it went to the wire terminal block on the old refrigerator, it could have been easy to mistake it for a ground wire that needed to be attached to the new refrigerator. That would be a big mistake because that wire has +12 Volts on it when the key is on.
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  #8  
Old 05-20-2010
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Yep, the lack of any color coding on 12V systems is a bit problematic for those of us familiar with 120 VAC or higher.
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Old 05-20-2010
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I'd agree with John- that you had a 12V 3-way reefer at one time that ran off the engine voltage when you were driving and switched to propane or 110V when you parked. The only wires in my compartment that "look" like 110V wiring are for the gas shutoff solenoid. I think that BB used black "lamp cord" for the solenoid.
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  #10  
Old 05-20-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dieselbird01 View Post
Hi Dan,

I’m not sure this applies at all to what you have but the original refrigerator in my 91 Bird was a 3 way Dometic RM3804 which had an “Ignition Lock” feature. I think it’s function was to switch the refrigerator to 12 volt operation whenever the ignition key was on and also to delay the gas operation mode for a period of time after the ignition key was turned off so that the refrigerator wouldn’t switch to gas right away - giving you time to fuel up the coach without having the refrigerator gas flame come on.

The replacement Dometic RM2820 that I installed does not have that feature so the “Ignition Lock” signal is not needed. The noteworthy thing about this is that (at least on my 91 Bird) they decided to use a green wire for the “Ignition Lock” signal. Since the wire was green and it went to the wire terminal block on the old refrigerator, it could have been easy to mistake it for a ground wire that needed to be attached to the new refrigerator. That would be a big mistake because that wire has +12 Volts on it when the key is on.
Same on the 88 FC
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