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  #191  
Old 06-13-2018
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Kiwi3 Kiwi3 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisN View Post
Does anybody have any tips for accessing the front (long) coolant hose fitting on the compressor? This is on a 1986 PT38 with 8v92 and a cross bed if that matters. The pictures I have found show the compressor wide open. On mine the front couple of inches are tucked under the body. I pulled the heat shield away from the body and can see the fitting but looks pretty tight to get a wrench on. I can see it from underneath looking up beside the transmission but can’t reach it. This fitting makes the other end (above starter) look like a piece of cake. I appreciate any suggestions.

Thanks,
Chris
I'm not sure if this helps, but I found this thread where the crew was talking about accessing the compressor on an 86' through the side louvered battery door.
Quote:
Quote:
Originally Posted by jim11dd
"I have an 86 PT40 8V92 and am trying to change the compressor hoses, after opening up the 25" x 25" engine access under the bed the forward section of the opening is across the front portion of the compressor head and covers the forward hose connection. I can't figure how to access the forward hose connection, I can see it with a mirror and light and can sort of feel it by standing on my head. Can't seem to find a way from the side or bottom to get to it. The only solution I can see is cutting through the floor behind the water holding tank to get to it. Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated!!"

I have done at least one 1986PT40.
I think we did it by reaching in from the side louvered battery door,long arms required.
Changing that hose is not as bad as changing the compressor.
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Randy on the battery door..

Full thread

Info on pulling the floor

Good luck. I know your frustration.
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  #192  
Old 06-14-2018
ChrisN ChrisN is offline
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Thanks for the links Bruce. I decided to take Bobs advice and leave the exhaust blankets alone. I removed the front heat shield, the air cleaner housing and inner hanger so that I could lay over the engine. I could reach through and get a stubby wrench on the fitting but couldn’t break it loose. So I made an extension for a open end wrench and reached up the right side of the transmission and broke it loose. I then could reach through and remove it. I hope that I won’t be doing that again any time soon. I am glad I decided to change them though. They were painted silver so probably original. The lower one snapped in two when removing it. Now to get the new ones made and back on. Thanks to all for your advice.

Chris
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  #193  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
irstaxhelp irstaxhelp is offline
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Default hoses

Sure be nice if someone posted a video of the access through the rear of the bus.
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  #194  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
irstaxhelp irstaxhelp is offline
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Great thread guys. My mechanic also says he has to remove the starter. Wondering if the metal next to the batteries is indeed the way to go or not.

John
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  #195  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irstaxhelp View Post
Great thread guys. My mechanic also says he has to remove the starter. Wondering if the metal next to the batteries is indeed the way to go or not.

John
Many of us have removed the starter to get at the lower/longer compressor coolant hose. Makes the job easey.
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  #196  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
chiplamb chiplamb is offline
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Not just recommended for DD but my old CAT 3208 has scary hoses that are being replaced in 3.... 2... 1... along with compressor and Horton clutch. Tired of air leaks and other issues!
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  #197  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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There has been lots of posts with pics on this job.
Use the search function.
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  #198  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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I didn't remove starter- used a crows foot with long extension
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  #199  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ernest Ekberg View Post
I didn't remove starter- used a crows foot with long extension
That works,i did the same.
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  #200  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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I cut a old wrench in half. That worked great for me. Just did that job about a month ago
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