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HVAC, Air Conditioners, Aqua Hot, Primus, Webasto, Chassis Heaters, Furnaces and Water Heaters Questions and information about the wide variety of Heating and Air Conditioning as well as Water Heater systems available are discussed here.

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  #21  
Old 12-06-2019
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chiplamb chiplamb is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoGas View Post
Chip - go back and do a search for the thread from 3-1/2 yrs ago where I rebuilt the H - good info there. Sorry Randy
Looked but did not find, can you post it here? Thanks
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  #22  
Old 12-06-2019
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^^^
The engine preheat pump was quoted quite a bit higher than $200, I elected to not replace, IRT agreed..
just my .02
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  #23  
Old 12-06-2019
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Originally Posted by Randy Dupree View Post
I think i would have a remote mounted pump,outside the box,if possible.

Back in the late 90's the Hurricane system had remote mounted pumps and heat exchangers. They were supper easy to service, especially changing pump brushes, and easy to winterize. There was no danger of the heat exchanger freezing because you completely drained the fresh water lines on the exchanger.
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  #24  
Old 12-06-2019
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Default M380 Hurricane Leak Diagnosis - Part 2

After taking the required glycol bath found the problem without having to pull the H out (the good news).

Used a couple Hose Pincher Pliers to temporarily seal off inlet line to the pump, outside the H case and the small 3/8” outlet hose inside. Then removed the smaller outlet hose band clamp and pulled the hose off the barb. Disconnected the two pump wires and spun the pump off the inlet nipple. It was apparent where the leak was coming from - the threaded part of the pump showed a hairline crack. Why it happened after 3-1/2 years is anyone’s guess. More good news is March Mfg is still very much in business . They sell the whole pump & motor for $196 + S/H. But even better is they sell ALL the parts for this and their other pumps. With S&H it was about $30 with S&H. I ordered it online from ‘Pump Vendor’ HERE:
  • Cover / 0893-0004-1000 / $12.65
  • ‘O’ Ring / 1115-0018-1000 / $1.15

Lance - if you want to get your H-Engine Preheat Pump working again, the parts would likely be cheaper than a whole new pump. Plus I now know someone who could “strawboss” your work

Chip - Links to my original 2016 Hurricane Rebuild posts can be found in post #3 - HERE
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  #25  
Old 12-07-2019
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Did you change all of those hoses or just one, Don?
My recollection is that I changed all of the black hoses, but not the orange ones. Take a look at this thread if you haven't: https://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.c...ad.php?t=20228
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  #26  
Old 12-08-2019
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^^ Ditto - although I switched to silicone hoses. Complete parts list can be found at thread we mentioned above.
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  #27  
Old 12-08-2019
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After a careful examination of the system today I think I found the culprit - one of the two convectors in the bath area, probably the one that blows into the toilet room. Damp floor under the drawers and some evidence of moisture in the wood, some of it rather old. Guess it's gotten worse of late. Hope I can get one. Will take the drawer framework/cabinetry out tomorrow if I have a chance.

Update - I have - see https://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.c...d.php?p=471717 - need 2 MCC 12-3403 5" square convectors with fan.
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Last edited by chiplamb; 12-09-2019 at 05:03 PM.
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  #28  
Old 12-09-2019
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Default HC PreHeat Pump

Lance - if you want to get your H-Engine Preheat Pump working again, the parts would likely be cheaper than a whole new pump. Plus I now know someone who could “strawboss” your work

My pump had apparently shorted out, the wires were crispy all the way to the motor housing, I’m not replacing, since I never used it..
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  #29  
Old 12-09-2019
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Default M380 Hurricane Engine Pre-Heat Pump - Possible Design Flaw?

Have been trying to figure out why the Engine Pre-Heat pump housing which was replaced only 3-1/2 years ago cracked. Further investigation revealed a residual coating of glossy/hard white substance on the nipple threads on the engine preheat pump connection fitting which exits the H case. I will need to remove this substance before the threads will work with the newly repaired pump. Since the engine coolant water in this line continuously flows at 180°F or higher, could it be that either the threads of the plastic pump or something inside the pump melted and/or caused it to leak? The housing crack appears to go all the way through the pump housing at the connection point. However, based on the temperature characteristics of the materials used for the pump and impeller, I have also ordered a new impeller for my pump. Once fixed, should this issue crop up again I will follow Lance’s example but also internally bypass this pump (that I don’t use it anyway )

Notes: On checking the pump description, I discovered the pump body is made of Noryl Plastic and the impeller of Nylon. From the plastic manufacturer, Noryl has a Max Service Temperature of 163-189 °F and a Melting Temperature of 351-432 °F, while Nylon 6 typically exhibits a glass transition temperature of 48°C (118.4°F) and a melt temperature of 214°C (412°F).
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  #30  
Old 12-09-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoGas View Post
Have been trying to figure out why the Engine Pre-Heat pump housing which was replaced only 3-1/2 years ago cracked. Further investigation revealed a residual coating of glossy/hard white substance on the nipple threads on the engine preheat pump connection fitting which exits the H case. I will need to remove this substance before the threads will work with the newly repaired pump. Since the engine coolant water in this line continuously flows at 180°F or higher, could it be that either the threads of the plastic pump or something inside the pump melted and/or caused it to leak? The housing crack appears to go all the way through the housing at the connection point. However, based on the temperature characteristics of the materials used for the pump and impeller, I have also ordered a new impeller for my pump. Once fixed, should this issue crop up again I will follow Lance’s example but also internally bypass this pump (that I don’t use it anyway )

Notes: On checking the pump description, I discovered the pump body is made of Noryl Plastic and the impeller of Nylon. From the plastic manufacturer, Noryl has a Max Service Temperature of 163-189 °F and a Melting Temperature of 351-432 °F, while Nylon 6 typically exhibits a glass transition temperature of 48°C (118.4°F) and a melt temperature of 214°C (412°F).



Sounds like you need a water cooled pump!
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