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PT & WB (Twin Axle Pusher Unique Issues) If you have a unique issue with your PT or WB model coach and it can't be answered in one of the other forums here, then this is where you can list it....list your PT Parts here too.

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  #21  
Old 08-14-2019
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sfedeli sfedeli is offline
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Maybe so... But I rebuilt a fan motor for an 89 WB with 8V92 DDEC a few years ago exactly like the one in my older '85 model. After 3 epic fails from hydraulic shops, owner gave up and just sent it to me.

I don't know how you can press that seal in "backwards" without damage to the rubber. It's too bad no one had pics from before they started to disassemble Mark's fan motor.
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  #22  
Old 08-14-2019
badandy badandy is offline
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Originally Posted by sfedeli View Post
Maybe so... But I rebuilt a fan motor for an 89 WB with 8V92 DDEC a few years ago exactly like the one in my older '85 model. After 3 epic fails from hydraulic shops, owner gave up and just sent it to me.

I don't know how you can press that seal in "backwards" without damage to the rubber. It's too bad no one had pics from before they started to disassemble Mark's fan motor.
The new style seal is much smaller and a much tighter fit to the shaft, so they could have messed it up when they slid it on over the shaft, too.

Also, if you look at my photo of the -33 motor with the seal installed the seal actually looks backwards, but it's not.
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  #23  
Old 08-14-2019
GregOC GregOC is offline
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Cup of a seal holds the oil got to look at it like the passive pressure will fill the cup and squeez the shaft or in a wheel the grease pumped in keeps the seal squeezd . Next thing to check before starting is hydro oil in the pump motor and valve is full. .
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  #24  
Old 08-14-2019
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Originally Posted by GregOC View Post
Cup of a seal holds the oil got to look at it like the passive pressure will fill the cup and squeez the shaft or in a wheel the grease pumped in keeps the seal squeezd .
No, that's incorrect in this case!
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  #25  
Old 08-14-2019
GregOC GregOC is offline
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Not sure what way you call correct but a motor will not often blow a seal like in his image. unless the hydro oil return path is muffed. Or the spool on a motor control is muffed or a single directional motor is plumbed in backwards.

Sometimes the returns lines come apart inside and can be turned around to finish the job. The returns relieve the jam of pressure.

Looking for a cause of your seal other than the plumbing health is oil heat and powersteering health. Everything adds up even hot oil from constant steering correction for being out of alignment
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  #26  
Old 08-15-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregOC View Post
Not sure what way you call correct but a motor will not often blow a seal like in his image. unless the hydro oil return path is muffed. Or the spool on a motor control is muffed or a single directional motor is plumbed in backwards.

Sometimes the returns lines come apart inside and can be turned around to finish the job. The returns relieve the jam of pressure.

Looking for a cause of your seal other than the plumbing health is oil heat and powersteering health. Everything adds up even hot oil from constant steering correction for being out of alignment
Since we are having a virtually impossible time at finding a replacement seal I sure don’t want to blow one up when and if we find one. I will have the shop re-verify their feed return orientation before we do any further testing
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  #27  
Old 08-15-2019
GregOC GregOC is offline
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Some times those old return lines come apart inside and a flap of a rubber ply pulls down and blocks flow hard to tell, i usually just replace, the hard pressure side usually get replaced more often. or if a pump fails, the return path gets blocked with junk. I would not have installed that seal the way another post describes and i would need to see mfg specs on it to do that install in that way. But I was wrong twice before, this could be the third time
.

May be best to ask a rebuilder , some good tractor hydrostat guys with utubs that are real accessible by phone
remember that hoses have a relaxed state. When you tighten them down and twist the hose , everytime the hose fills with pressure it unscrews the fitting. another point to check is fittings and angles of the return. A hose looped 90 deg has almost no friction cost but the added cost of friction of a 90 deg fitting is big back pressure on the return line and motor pressure loss on the supply side.

Single wire hoses spiral twist when under pressure. Even in low pressure applications i use two wire ply so the cross ply twist counters each other.
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  #28  
Old 08-15-2019
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OK, all I am hearing is everybody has a different opinion on not only what went wrong but how. I am more confused than ever, but still have a question. In looking at Mark's photo can someone explain what the h**l that spring is doing in there. It looks as if it was blown out from the inside. So did something let go inside the motor and that is what destroyed the seal or was the seal the wrong seal or installed improperly and allowed the guts to come out? This question is from someone that has never looked inside one of these so forgive me if it sounds like a stupid question.
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  #29  
Old 08-17-2019
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Well the biggest issue I had with the seals is the fact that the seals for a new version of the Webster motor built by Danfoss are 1 5/8 inch OD. The original Webster are 1 1/2 OD. The shaft dimensional is still 1 inch. It gets quite confusing when you’re trying to read all this and figure out what to order. The new motor have a completely different End Cap So currently in order to get a new style seal you must order a new end cap in order to get full seal which comes installed from the factory . The new seals are much harder and much less hard nylon.
You can still get the old seals to rebuild an existing 44970–30 or 44970-33 model Webster pump. I do not recall the exact part number for the steel but I have one should anyone and one. I was able to get that as part of a minor rebuild kit. Unfortunately my old motor was too far gone to be rebuilt.
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  #30  
Old 08-17-2019
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10% of the time a blown fuse is the problem . 90% of the time it is just the result of another problem.....

this seal holds oil seeping, not oil pressure. (think about it if the pump gets 3,000 psi do you think that hammer placed seal would hold if it was engineered to contain that pressure?) for a seal to blow, like in your image the motor is muffed or the fluid can not exhaust the devise. and is forced out of the motors other openings. the new seal will pop again 90% sure unless you find the issue.
replacing a part that continues to fail is not a repair, it is an exercise.
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