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Electrical Discussion of preventative/corrective maintenance and other technical issues regarding your coach's electrical system.

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  #21  
Old 09-04-2019
DW SD DW SD is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shahin View Post
Hi Doug,

Here are some numbers for today
10am
PV array
Kw 0.05
Volts 28.5
Battery bank
13.4 volt
3.8 amps
Magnum Remote
Float Charging
13.4V
+15A
2pm
PV array
Kw 0.21
Volts 31.2
Battery bank
14.3volt
13.8 amps
Magnum Remote
Float Charging
14.2V
+0A
Thanks for sharing, seems like your batteries began the morning very well charged... since the controller was in float @ 13.4V @ 10a. The data does make me wonder how Kev wired the panels, for example, if in series? Series would mean the panels' voltage is additive and thus higher input voltage to the PT100.
If in series, I would have expected to see 4 panels' voltage much higher than 28V to 31V ..... *unless you have lots of clouds. I think I see 90V to 110V with 3 x 300W panels.

The reason to do series would be higher voltage and then less power loss from current in the panel-to-controller wiring. This is the major advantage of MPPT controller (compatibility with high input voltages from the panels).

* note: actually, I don't really know if the panel voltage or current drops with clouds.
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  #22  
Old 09-04-2019
badandy badandy is offline
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Interesting thing I've noticed is the PV voltage runs about 25 over night and 60-75 during the day. This is a shot of the past 24 hours of cloudy overcast skies all day. The red line along the bottom is the panel voltage. Once the sun comes up it sits at about the same voltage all day no matter what.

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  #23  
Old 09-04-2019
DW SD DW SD is offline
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Originally Posted by badandy View Post
Interesting thing I've noticed is the PV voltage runs about 25 over night and 60-75 during the day. This is a shot of the past 24 hours of cloudy overcast skies all day. The red line along the bottom is the panel voltage. Once the sun comes up it sits at about the same voltage all day no matter what.

Andy,
Are your panels all wired in series?

I'm nearly certain I see over 100V at the charge controller with just 3 panels.

Doug
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  #24  
Old 09-04-2019
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Originally Posted by DW SD View Post
Andy,
Are your panels all wired in series?

I'm nearly certain I see over 100V at the charge controller with just 3 panels.

Doug
You have giant 60 or 72-cell panels, I have 36-cell panels. So I have 2 strings of 4 series panels, lower voltage.
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  #25  
Old 09-04-2019
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I put an outlet on the inverter junction box under the sink. I drilled a hole in board at back of fridge from the outside. I ran a short cord to the new outlet and plugged in my fridge. So the outlet supplies 110v from land lines and 110v from inverter when traveling. My fridge does not operate on LP gas even though Leon fixed it. This certainly is better than running my genie.

Darryl
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  #26  
Old 09-04-2019
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You could also look at something like this 12V DC compressor or the 120V AC compressor mod if you don't want to just replace the fridge with a residential.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yte1V3CkDrw
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  #27  
Old 09-04-2019
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Wired my five 60-cell house panels in series. With PT100 MPPT they’re very efficient. Commonly see around 175 volts DC (5 x 35). Even with no load, your panel voltage will not vary much when the sun is up. Kev obviously wired yours in parallel - based on the 28-31 volt readings. Not as efficient that way but may be better when one or more panels are under partial shading. IMO as long as total combined voltages for your number of panels does not exceed controller capability & shading isn’t a concern, series is the way to go. Magnum’s manual has a section on how to calculate this that includes temperature variations. Doug’s right, your numbers show little load with near fully charged batteries. In the morning my batts are down 200-250 Ah on average. By 11 am, the PT100 has usually gone to Absorption and throttled back on the amps to maintain a max voltage of 14.6 volts. To test your panels when the batteries are charged, load them up with a demand. Let the the inverter power something like the microwave or even better a convection oven. The PT100 should see that load and quickly ramp it’s output up to provide max panel output in its attempt to replace the used amps. If you start this with a resting battery voltage (12.6 or so), the controller will immediately go to Bulk then transition to Absorption once the battery voltage climbs to whatever you/Kev set for that value, in my case with FullRivers’s that value is 14.6 volts.
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  #28  
Old 09-04-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darryl View Post
I put an outlet on the inverter junction box under the sink. I drilled a hole in board at back of fridge from the outside. I ran a short cord to the new outlet and plugged in my fridge. So the outlet supplies 110v from land lines and 110v from inverter when traveling. My fridge does not operate on LP gas even though Leon fixed it. This certainly is better than running my genie. Darryl
The wiring on your coach may require this. However, the Magnum Inverter/Charger has an auto bypass function. When it “sees” shore power, it internally bypasses the inverter to power any outlets connected to it with shore power, and it also powers up its very smart battery charger. Changing between battery and shore power is instant and totally transparent in either direction (as long as high demand loads are removed first), and my house fridge doesn’t even blink .
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  #29  
Old 09-05-2019
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Quote:
However, the Magnum Inverter/Charger has an auto bypass function.
Yep, that’s what this works on landlines, gennie and inverter.

D
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  #30  
Old 09-05-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darryl View Post
Yep, that’s what this works on landlines, gennie and inverter.

D
It'd be cool to share some data at WOT (wide open throttle) of your system.
Load it up with AC substantial loads (as Van suggested) around mid-day with clear skies and report in...

Cheers,

Doug
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