wiring,batterys,alternators,bring em on!

[racin41bb]

We have a walker-stacker in our warehouse which has T-105's that were installed in May, 1997. We have used this machine several times a week for the past 11 years. The batteries are still preforming well. We have always used an external "smart" charger when charging. We have Exides in our WL which are OK but they ain't Trojans.

[AC7880]

When I purchased our 94 BB BMC 37' in 2004, it had 2 bulging group 31 Gells for chassis, 4 flooded group 27 for house, with 2 factory 45 amp dumb chargers (1 for each bank as it was wired).

Since then, in preparation for the fulltiming we are now doing:

Installed Truecharge 40+ smart charger with temp sensor and remote display inside coach.

Installed Progressive industries EMS/surge protector on the 110 volt side (built-in on the incoming power cable)

Installed Deka group 31 AGM batteries, 2 for chassis, 5 for coach (was 4 on coach bank before).

Installed Yandina battery combiner wired so I can combine banks, seperate banks, or have it set to auto (combines charging, seperates when discharging).

Installed AM Solar system, 3 100 watt panels, HPV-22 controller with inside control/display, and temp compensation.

Installed tri-metric 2020 battery monitoring system to keep an eye on battery status at all times.

Used digital volt meter to verify input from solar, truecharge converter, and alternator are all within parameters and matches up with the tri-metric numbers.

The BMC does not have slide out battery trays. It sure is nice to have very little battery maintainance to do. Basically I just eyeball the battery compartment once a month to check for the tie-downs, look for any corrosion, bulging batteries, etc.

[slckpurdy]

Recomendations for inverters. I have a Hearitage 2800 inverter with two 45 watt chargers that came stock with the unit in 1994 on a BMC 37'. Has anyone had good luck with this setup. Are these chargers more than likely " Battery burners" Kind of looking for recomendations, suppliers and pricing. My batterys are deep cell water added RV batterys 4 for the coach and two for start.

[slckpurdy]

Sorry Dan I missed your post before . Did you rewire this yourself and do you have a Dan's installation manual. Sounds like a good system especially knowing we are talking about the same units with probably the same comparable options

[warbucks13477]

I know I have posted this on several motorhome and wanderlodge forums and will make it short since I am sure many are getting tired of it. When you replace your battery boilers I would strongly recommend that you buy a refurbished Xantrex inverter/charger such as the Freedom series or the prosine series if you believe you need a true sinewave charger/inverter. You can buy a Freedom 2500 for instance for about $799 (new cost over $1300) at www.partsonsale.com/heartfreedomrefurb.html . These are extremely robust units the 2500 weighing 45# If you are thinking about buying an Iota charge I would not recommend it. We tested their performance at out last rally here and they did not do what the company advertises. They do not appear to be 3 stage chargers as they advertise. Instead buy a refurbished Xantrex True charge 40+ for $220. They are a true 3 stage charger and have the full factory warranty at a cost of less then 50% of new. http://www.sunelec.com/Distributors_...ody_index.html

I would also recommend that you buy a inverter/charger and get the added benefit of now being able to power your microwave, computers, all wall receptacles etc from it. This is really a huge upgrade to your coach. If everything goes alright we are going to install one at our upcoming rally June 11-15, 2009.

[AC7880]

Steve,

Specific to the 94 model year BMC 37': The way Bluebird factory wired the modified sine wave Heart 2800 inverter, it is not wired to charge the batteries. It only inverts the 12 volt batteries into 110 for the coach. It also is wired to feed both legs of the 110 volts circuit breaker panel, EVERY 110 volt source on the coach. Because of this, it is important to ensure the ACs , heater, HW heater, instahot, etc are all off before turning on the inverter. On the 94, the on/off for the inverter is at drivers left arm. Later BMCs may and likely are wired differently. Also see this thread: http://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.co...light=inverter

The original 45 watt chargers/converters are not 3 stage chargers, therefore can overcharge the batteries. I removed both and replaced both with 1 smart charger Xantrex Truecharge 45+. This is the the same charger/converter referrenced by Tom Warner. I might have installed 2 versus one, but I only had room to install one. I also installed the optional remote display, mounted under the 110 volt braker panel, and remote temp sensor on the batteries.

It is a pretty easy install. Disconnect all incoming 110 volt power, and unwind the 50 amp shore cable, and look behind the rubber flap at top back. Behind that is the battery isolator. Note how the two chargers are wired into the battery isolater. The center isolater post feeds current to the two outer posts, and in turn to the bat banks. The top post goes to the chassis batteries, the bottom post to the house batteries. Note the battery isolator is 12 volt "live" unless you disconnect both banks of batteries. I worked on it live being carefull to not ground out.

Remove the dumb chargers, install the new charger in same place (drill a couple holes and use screws). Have new wire of largest size that will fit the terminals on new charger. You can support multiple battery banks with a truecharge 40, so I ran #1 terminal to the house bank via bottom isolator post, terminal 2 to top post chassis batteries. It will keep both banks at perfect charge level - independent of each other.

There are switches for battery type, temperatue (hot, cold, warm), etc. You can wire to the center battery isolator post, but there will be a voltage drop (minimal) by going center post that feed to both banks, versus going direct to top and bottom post, and each bank won't be independtly monitored and fed only the optimal charge needed by each bank.

If you get the optional battery temp monitor, it over rides the temp switch on the charger. Run the temp wire out the back of the compartment, straight across the coach to other side and into the back of the Batt compartment, connect to a battery bank. Temp sensor will modify the chargers output to keep batteries charging as quickly as possible without overcharging and boiling depending on temp of battery compartment.

If and when you change batteries I recommend AGMs. The batt compartment is not vented, so outgassing of floodeds "could" be a concern, and the battery trays do not slide out for easy battery maintenance. AGMs also accept a recharge quicker. Original battereis in the coach were Gel cells.

Originally Posted by slckpurdy

Recomendations for inverters. I have a Hearitage 2800 inverter with two 45 watt chargers that came stock with the unit in 1994 on a BMC 37'. Has anyone had good luck with this setup. Are these chargers more than likely " Battery burners" Kind of looking for recomendations, suppliers and pricing. My batterys are deep cell water added RV batterys 4 for the coach and two for start.

[Kurt Achenbach]

Last October at the great Hershey rally, I decided that my AGM batteries needed replacement and since the battery factory is located in the neighbour town Shane was kind enough to give me and the old batteries a lift.
I bought 3 house batteries 4D and 2 start units 31 on Oct. 10. With Shanes expertiese and help we installed them and all was great and stayed this way until after my return from
Quartzsite in January. I parked the coach in the Garage and a few weeks later the Gen autostart kicked in even dough I turnd off the 12 V. When I tried to start the engine nothing happened when I turned on the ignition. No lights on dash or anything. I turned on the aux Battery switch on the dash and lights came on and the coach could be started.
This problem persists and without the aux Battery the ignition does not come on. Had the coach pluged in but it just seams that starting batteries wont take a charge.
Not having the right tools and not knowing enough to check currents. I plan to be at the Vernon rally and hopefully the problem can be fixed.
I checked all the terminal connections and they are tight.
When the auto Gen start is on the Generator kicks in fine but after 2 hrs. of running still, nothing.
Any ideas?

[Bill Pape]

Check the individual battery voltages, & the Voltage at the batteries with charger turned "ON", The charge may be the culprit.

[peteaeonix]

Originally Posted by Kurt Achenbach

<snip>This problem persists and without the aux Battery the ignition does not come on. Had the coach pluged in but it just seams that starting batteries wont take a charge.
<snip>
Any ideas?

The BMCs are frequently wired up differently than the "regular" BBs ... but on the Wide Body models, the starting batteries do not charge unless the Aux switch is left in the ON position. (It's a 3 position switch, on, off, and intermittent (hold for on).)

If I forget to put the switch in the on position, the engine batteries will fade away over a few weeks, as they're not getting any charge.

I've considered adding a small charger on its own circuit to keep the engine batteries up ... but it seems to work OK as BB wired the system -- as long as I remember to flip the switch on when I park...

[warbucks13477]

Kurt/Pete that sounds like a unfriendly way to do it, to have someone have to remember to leave a switch in a certain position in order to charge batteries. I would modify the circuit to be able to charge all batteries no matter what position the switch is in.