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Electrical Discussion of preventative/corrective maintenance and other technical issues regarding your coach's electrical system.

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  #11  
Old 05-04-2010
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susanmarycamilleri susanmarycamilleri is offline
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Mike
I actually figured mine out. I had originally tapped into the dash fan circuit for the DRL. With the fan on and the DRL on, it eventually overloaded the circuit breaker for that circuit. I believe that the "control" power for the A/T switch was on the same circuit, so when the CB tripped I lost control power for the A/T switch, which resulted in a total DC failure. the CB would cool and then everything would come back on line.
I solved the problem by wiring in a relay and giving the DRL a separate power circuit. Worked fine after that.
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  #12  
Old 05-04-2010
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Default Good stuff!

It would be a good idea to locate that big solenoid anyways though, just in case something down the road draws too much and disables it.

You can poke it with a wire from the hot stud to the trip pole and energize it to get yourself out of a bind on the side of the road (voice of experience).

My own challenge now is to figure out which wire coming from the DRL does what and get that working right again.

There is an outfit in Edmonton called Smith Electric that carries the big 100 Amp solenoids (they are very hard to find). They got me one from somewhere in Calgary overnight that I have as a spare. They had a lot of very useful things for big trucks, like big alernators for the Detroits!

Happy Wandering.
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Mike and Tracy - near Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
1999 43 LXI, "Maddy" - 60 Series Detroit
FOR SALE, $65k U.S. OBO
2006 Jeep Liberty CRD (Diesel) or 2013 Jeep Rubicon 4 Down Toads; Sold Jetta, but it was an awesome toad.
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  #13  
Old 05-04-2010
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iamflagman iamflagman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mhughes01 View Post
We've got a 99 LXI with factory daytime running lights (DRL's). Had exactly the same problem. Many hours tracing it - read on for the fix.

We're still in the process of getting our DRL's to work right, but here is the issue.

There are two large (100Amp) can type solenoids on our bird. They are in the master 12v fuse and relay cabinet outside the coach, drivers side, under the driver's side window. When we turn key to on, this solenoid is energized and passes current to most vehicle systems including the Engine controller, HWH jacks and that buzzer the drives you nuts when they're down, the transmission, etc. There are two switching lugs on the solenoid one goes to the key, and I suspect (but haven't yet confirmed) that the other goes to the A/T switch.

Anyways, on our coach someone (not factory) had wired a terminal on the headlight switch to the key switch on wire. This creates a lot of draw, so much that there isn't enough left to keepthe master solenoid energized. I suspect that whomever installed your DRL did the same thing.

So, I would suggest you see if you have the same canister solenoid. It is a white-rodgers model. Then look for a wire going to either your headlight switch or the DRL.

I have temporarily solved my nightmare by wiring the headlights directly to the energized (key on) side of the solenoid. For the time being, we just drive with our lights on in the daytime as that is a lot safer than having DRLs that work in the daylight, but a coach that shuts off at 60mph in the dark on the highway.

Once I locate a circuit diagram for the 48600-02 DRL module on our coach, I will be rewiring it to the key on side of the large solenoid.

You can Private email me on here if you like and I can send you pictures of what to look for. I doubt our coaches are much different being only 3 years apart.


How about posting the pictures right here on the forum, so they will be here for future reference?
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JOHN FINN
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1982 FC35RB
I'm NO EXPERT, but I did stay in the FINN'S INN EXPRESS last night
HOPKINS, SOUTH CAROLINA
VISIT THE FINN'S INN EXPRESS REMODELING ADVENTURE AND TECH. TIPS
I'M SO SLOW ON THE HILLS,THAT I GET TO SMELL THE FLOWERS AS I GO BY.....AND WATCH THEM GROW TOO!! NOT SO MUCH ANYMORE
Visit the WILD HARE RACING website
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  #14  
Old 05-05-2010
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mhughes01 mhughes01 is offline
Mike and Tracy
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Near Edmonton
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Cool Total Coach Electrical Failure Solved

I've attached four slides showing my fuse cabinet and the offending solenoid and wiring and the solution.

I've also located a DRl 48000 schematic and attached it here as well. Believe it or not, the combination of this and the wiring schematics that came with my coach, plus all those nifty labelled wires that form that collectively complex, but well organized rats nest in the cabinet in Slide 1 helped me figure out what was going on.

The problem with the whole mess was simple: when the headlights/DRl heated up enough to draw down the power, there wasn't enough current to keep the big solenoid closed, so the coil opened, and the 100 amps of goodies downstream were left with no juice (including a circuit that tells the Detroit to stay on!). Hence we got to roll down the road in the dark with a suddenly and frightfully dead coach. I very much doubt that BlueBird ever would have wired it this way, or there would have been a bunch of accident reports by now and a recall. I suspect that somewhere in our coach's history the headlight wire got re routed and this caused the problem as it has been OK since this change.


I don't know what I would do without:
1. This forum!
2. The Internet!
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Attached Files
File Type: pdf IF-142_DRL.pdf (11.4 KB, 175 views)
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Mike and Tracy - near Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
1999 43 LXI, "Maddy" - 60 Series Detroit
FOR SALE, $65k U.S. OBO
2006 Jeep Liberty CRD (Diesel) or 2013 Jeep Rubicon 4 Down Toads; Sold Jetta, but it was an awesome toad.

Last edited by mhughes01; 10-23-2010 at 11:46 AM. Reason: Update
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  #15  
Old 09-29-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mhughes01 View Post
I've attached four slides showing my fuse cabinet and the offending solenoid and wiring and the solution.

I've also located a DRl 48000 schematic and attached it here as well. Believe it or not, the combination of this and the wiring schematics that came with my coach, plus all those nifty labelled wires that form that collectively complex, but well organized rats nest in the cabinet in Slide 1 helped me figure out what was going on.

The problem with the whole mess was simple: when the headlights/DRl heated up enough to draw down the power, there wasn't enough current to keep the big solenoid open, so the coil closed, and the 100 amps of goodies downstream were left with no juice (including a circuit that tells the Detroit to stay on!). Hence we got to roll down the road in the dark with a suddenly and frightfully dead coach. I very much doubt that BlueBird ever would have wired it this way, or there would have been a bunch of accident reports by now and a recall. I suspect that somewhere in our coach's history the headlight wire got re routed and this caused the problem as it has been OK since this change.


I don't know what I would do without:
1. This forum!
2. The Internet!

Mike,

The attached pictures and explanations with great detail are a very valuable addition to this thread and I'm sure will be of great help for our members now and in the future.

Keep up the good work.
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JOHN FINN
FORUM MODERATOR-ADMINISTRATOR
1982 FC35RB
I'm NO EXPERT, but I did stay in the FINN'S INN EXPRESS last night
HOPKINS, SOUTH CAROLINA
VISIT THE FINN'S INN EXPRESS REMODELING ADVENTURE AND TECH. TIPS
I'M SO SLOW ON THE HILLS,THAT I GET TO SMELL THE FLOWERS AS I GO BY.....AND WATCH THEM GROW TOO!! NOT SO MUCH ANYMORE
Visit the WILD HARE RACING website
REMEMBER 9/11
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  #16  
Old 09-29-2010
jwasnewski jwasnewski is offline
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I installed DRL's. If the lights do not have to be activated by the ignition, wire your lights through a fused relayed circuit. Install a switch in an accessory blank in the panel. Get your power from the lower load center. On mine there are three basic sections. Filtered, ignition on and constant power. Mine are in the constant power panel. If they must come on with the ignition switch then get your power from a separate terminal in that section, fuse it, relay it and run it though a switch so you can cut em off if you want.
I she not had any issues.
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  #17  
Old 09-30-2010
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Thanks John.
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Mike and Tracy - near Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
1999 43 LXI, "Maddy" - 60 Series Detroit
FOR SALE, $65k U.S. OBO
2006 Jeep Liberty CRD (Diesel) or 2013 Jeep Rubicon 4 Down Toads; Sold Jetta, but it was an awesome toad.
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