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BMC (Bluebird Motor Coach Unique Issues) If you have a unique issue with your BMC coach and it can't be answered in one of the other forums here, then this is where you can list it.....List your BMC Parts here too.

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  #1  
Old 10-02-2012
bubblerboy64 bubblerboy64 is offline
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Default Suburban Propane Furnace Question

My friend who recently purchased a BMC has no heat from his furnace. It likely hasn't been used in years. He seems to have no information in the blue box about this furnace. We'd like to see if we can get this thing working as a DIY. It's under the frig and will need to be removed from inside the coach. Are there any particular pointers that you fellow BMC owners can give us as to repairs on this furnace. I suspect it's plugged up with "bugs" or some type of dirt. When the heat is called for the blower comes on but the propane doesn't ignite. Hopefully we can get to this thing this weekend to at least take a look see. Just asking for any pointers. Is there a shut off some place from the propane tank which might be turned off. Or a switch some place needing turned on. Any help appreciated.
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John Heckman
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1987 PT 36
The Bella Mia Sold
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  #2  
Old 10-02-2012
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KCSS KCSS is offline
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Hi John,

I'd try to vacuum and maybe some air pressure before removing unit. Might get lucky with dirt & mud daubers. Next step - plan "B" - check with local resident Suburban Guru
See ya next week at Hershey
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2000 LXI
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  #3  
Old 10-02-2012
Frank W. Frank W. is offline
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First...try to locate manual here:

http://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.co...ead.php?t=6330

or

http://bryantrv.com/docs.html

Various owners have found a mix of things...rust in the burners, wasp nests/dirt daubers, spark igniters rusty/not gapped properly...clean & inspect and test.

Take your time figuring out how to get "in"...many service procedures do not require removal of furnace...only access to the front (if your lucky).

Best move I did re: furnaces: a good cleaning from the burner access from front, clean spark igniter and burner and blowing all out with high pressure air, then get those little round screen covers on the vents.
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Coach photos & comments: http://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.co...php?albumid=79

Last edited by Frank W.; 10-02-2012 at 09:18 AM.
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  #4  
Old 10-02-2012
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Buckeye Bird Buckeye Bird is offline
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John,

As well as the LP shutoff at the tank and from the gas detector there should be a shutoff under the fridge right before it goes into the furnace. Make sure that the detector system has the gas turned on. That may be the reason it is not firing. If it is the original Hydro-Flame unit it should have a switch panel on the passenger side wall about halfway back.
The furnace itself sits inside an outer case. The case remains in place and the inside slides out. Access to any of the parts that would keep it from firing will require it be removed from the case (with the exception of one thermostat)

As far as removing it, after you take off the vent, disconnect the gas line from the furnace. Then you will need to remove the few screws that hold the front cover to the furnace. You may need to loosen the gas supply piping a little to get the cover off. After you get the cover off there will be a single screw holding a bracket in the center bottom of the furnace. If you are lucky that will be the only screw holding the unit inside the outside case. Try wiggling it around while pulling to see if it will start to slide out the front. If it does, you will need to disconnect the wires that go through the right side of the unit toward the back. I just cut mine and put insulated connectors on them for reassembly later.
Then it will just be a matter of sliding the unit out of the case and out the front. It is easy to work on once removed. One thing I would order right away is a UIB-S board from Dinosaur electronics: http://www.dinosaurelectronics.com/Ignitor_boards.htm

I would replace that board regardless once i wet to the trouble of removing the furnace. On mine that was the problem, but I also replaced a lot of the other parts once I had it apart (ignitor, blower motor, etc)

Replacing it is as easy as reversing the steps for removal. I tied a string to the wiring and ran the string back through the hole on the right side of the case to help pull them back to the front while putting the furnace back into the case.

Now for the bad news......
If BB screwed down the back screw on the unit, getting to the furnace will probably require removing the fridge, then cutting the plywood base that is above the furnace. (what I ended up having to do) I don't think you could get to the back screw by just cutting the plywood at the back from the outside, but it may be possible......I will look at mine today and let you know.
Since I removed the fridge and cut out the plywood i ended up removing the whole thing including the outside case. That required re-connecting all of the ductwork, etc. which was not much fun with the room you have to work with. I'll be glad to give you some help by phone if you get to this point.
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2012 Wrangler Unlimited
Lancaster, Ohio

Last edited by Buckeye Bird; 10-02-2012 at 09:28 AM.
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Old 10-02-2012
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In addition:

If you find that the gas was not turned on at the Hydro-flame detector panel, once you get it turned on I would try lighting the stove to make sure you are getting gas to the manifold behind the fridge. After that it may take several attempts to get the furnace to fire. It depends on the board that is in it whether it tries just once to light or three times. Just turn the thermostat off for a little while between tries.
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2012 Wrangler Unlimited
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Old 10-02-2012
bubblerboy64 bubblerboy64 is offline
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Thanks guys. You are the greatest. We'll study this and see what we can come up with. Dan we may be on the phone with you this weekend. Hope it's something simple but you know how that goes.
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  #7  
Old 10-02-2012
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Buckeye Bird Buckeye Bird is offline
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I'll PM my phone number.
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Lancaster, Ohio
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  #8  
Old 10-02-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bubblerboy64 View Post
Thanks guys. You are the greatest. We'll study this and see what we can come up with. Dan we may be on the phone with you this weekend. Hope it's something simple but you know how that goes.
Good tips in the previous posts, But, better to drive it to the Hershey Rally
See Ya there in Good Ole Pa.
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Old 10-02-2012
bubblerboy64 bubblerboy64 is offline
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That doesn't sound like a vote of confidence Bill?

My intention is to NOT get in over my head but if it's a bunch of dirt in there or the gas turned off I think the ole Heck Man might (?) be able to sort it out.

More then likely it will be more complicated then that but we can always hope.

If we're looking for projects for Hershey trust me there will be some.
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The Bella Mia Sold
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Old 10-02-2012
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I was able to take a look at the back of the fridge area, and it does look like that it may be possible to just cut the plywood there to get to the back of the furnace if that needs to be done. That would make things a lot easier.

It would probably be a good idea to order the UIB S Dinosaur board now, so you would hopefully have it by the weekend. It is the same board that can be used in the fridge and the hot water heater (if it still has LP hot water) so it is a nice thing to have a spare.

Here is one for $69 / free shipping on Ebay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DINOSAUR-UNI...a72441&vxp=mtr
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