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General Discussion of preventative/corrective maintenance and other technical issues regarding your coach that are not covered in other Mechanic's Corner categories (ex. refrigerators, water heaters, and compressors). |
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#1
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I have meant to post this for a long time. As I am thinking about this seasons projects I am thinking about previous ones. A couple of years ago I did all my jacks and while I was able to find info on taking the rears apart the fronts were a little more difficult.
Both front jacks had a damaged pivot bolt. I learned at the fastener store that these are called a button bolt and they sold me new ones with new nuts. I just cut the old nut off with a porta-band leaving enough material to line up the new nut. In fact there was a full thread left that I could turn a new bolt into to perfectly line up the new nut. First and second pictures help show this. The next pictures show the process of getting into the jack. There should be a small bit of wire showing in the hole on the body of the jack that you can get pliers on to draw the wire out. When the wire is out the brass seal retainer can be removed from the jack. This is were I got too involved and forgot to keep taking pictures. I thought when the seal retainer was out that I was home free. But not so there was still something stoping it from coming apart. I finally thought to remove the 90 degree pipe fitting from the body of the jack that can be seen in the fourth picture to have a look as that was the only thing I hadn't done. In that port I could see a round spring clip, I dislodged that from it's grove with a screwdriver then I could pull the jack the rest of the way apart. There is no piston in these jacks just a 2 piece brass component that fits into a machined area on the end of the ram that serves to keep the ram parallel with the front seal retainer. The ram is hollow and serves as the piston. The oil fills everything behind the seal retainer and pushes the ram out until the two piece brass component hits the snap ring at the oil fill port and that limits stroke.
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Pat LaBreck Olympia,Washington 1985 FC 35 SB |
#2
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WOW! man,that looks good!
Great post Pat.
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DO NOT SEND PM email me at randy@randydupree.com only. Randy Dupree 2000 LXI 43 Bainbridge,Ga. Port St Joe Fl. www.buybyebluebird.com randy@randydupree.com |
#3
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Man I want me some pretty springs, what other colors can you get those in?
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John McGinnis, former USAF EOD 95WB42MD S60, Mid-Entry "B-Rex" For Sale 88FC35 (SOLD) Louisville, KY/Jeffersonville, IN 2000 Jeep Cherokee "Franicon" Retired: Auctioneer, RE Broker, and Certified Vehicle & Heavy Equipment Appraiser "Dead man walking" 502-417-5681 |
#4
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he did a great job detailing those springs!
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DO NOT SEND PM email me at randy@randydupree.com only. Randy Dupree 2000 LXI 43 Bainbridge,Ga. Port St Joe Fl. www.buybyebluebird.com randy@randydupree.com |
#5
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I wonder if they are just spray painted or did he have them powder coated? I would think powder coating would last longer.
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John McGinnis, former USAF EOD 95WB42MD S60, Mid-Entry "B-Rex" For Sale 88FC35 (SOLD) Louisville, KY/Jeffersonville, IN 2000 Jeep Cherokee "Franicon" Retired: Auctioneer, RE Broker, and Certified Vehicle & Heavy Equipment Appraiser "Dead man walking" 502-417-5681 |
#6
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Those are the hi performance springs. I like lots of contrast and to have things looking good for reassembly. Sometimes thats all the fun there is to be had.
I really like Zero Rust paints. The cylinders are brush on black, the springs are rattle can. All the colors come out kind of semi gloss. Great for under carriage stuff. After a couple trips to Burning Man I wished all that stuff looked as good as it does in that picture.
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Pat LaBreck Olympia,Washington 1985 FC 35 SB |
#7
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Pat
They look new. Great job.
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Peter Haggins Courtenay, BC Canada 96wb42 Mid Door |
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