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General Discussion of preventative/corrective maintenance and other technical issues regarding your coach that are not covered in other Mechanic's Corner categories (ex. refrigerators, water heaters, and compressors).

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  #1  
Old 09-26-2010
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Christian Christian is offline
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Default Subway Safe

I have a subway safe under the dinett. The PO drilled it out because he thought there might be something valuable in it. The combo was long lost. He drilled a hole big enough 1/4 or so just to fit a bore camera in.
The safe is empty. However in an effort to get it working again I was going to ask if they are welded to the frame or bolted? Because it would be easier to cut into the back (thinner metal) and then work on the tumblers from the back to remove the plug. However if it is not accesable there I would be better off with a larger hole and a sawsall in the top. Any ideas from my fellow safe crackers?
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  #2  
Old 09-26-2010
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Before drilling look into the Bluebox for any documentation or the combo written someplace, there is a safe brochure in one of the files, BB used several mfg's Sargent being one. There was a standard routine for opening the safe with a generic ## for the first time, probably changed but worth a try. Our safe is bolted to the frame.
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  #3  
Old 09-26-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Christian View Post
I have a subway safe under the dinett. The PO drilled it out because he thought there might be something valuable in it. The combo was long lost. He drilled a hole big enough 1/4 or so just to fit a bore camera in.
The safe is empty. However in an effort to get it working again I was going to ask if they are welded to the frame or bolted? Because it would be easier to cut into the back (thinner metal) and then work on the tumblers from the back to remove the plug. However if it is not accesable there I would be better off with a larger hole and a sawsall in the top. Any ideas from my fellow safe crackers?
Christian,

My safe is bolted through from the inside of the safe. You have to open the safe to access the bolts.

Chuck
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Old 09-26-2010
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From what I've read and been told, a 4 " hole saw to get to the back of the door to get it open and then have a welder weld the plate back in and grind it down smooth if need be. That is the easiest and least expensive
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Old 09-26-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Christian View Post
I have a subway safe under the dinett. The PO drilled it out because he thought there might be something valuable in it. The combo was long lost. He drilled a hole big enough 1/4 or so just to fit a bore camera in.
The safe is empty. However in an effort to get it working again I was going to ask if they are welded to the frame or bolted? Because it would be easier to cut into the back (thinner metal) and then work on the tumblers from the back to remove the plug. However if it is not accesable there I would be better off with a larger hole and a sawsall in the top. Any ideas from my fellow safe crackers?
From my notes...if you have the numbers...

Safe Opening:

I called LA GARD Inc., Lock Systems, Torrance, CA 310 325-5670. Their info. helped me open our safe.

Try this...
Left 4 or more turns and stop on 1st combination number.
Right two times and third time stop on the 2nd number.
Left one time and 2nd time stop on the 3rd number.
Right till dial stops, about half a turn.

Worked for me...found 4 rolls of quarters in the safe.
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  #6  
Old 09-26-2010
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Did those quarters have an eagle on one side? They may have been mine.

Curt he didn't have the combination numbers.
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Old 09-26-2010
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curtsprenger curtsprenger is offline
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Quote:
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Did those quarters have an eagle on one side? They may have been mine.

Curt he didn't have the combination numbers
.
No eagles! Some useless notes in there. Bank accepted the quarter rolls. What a deal I got on the coach...saved $40.00!

Just sharing info. in hopes other might make use of it.
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Last edited by curtsprenger; 09-26-2010 at 10:44 PM. Reason: add comment
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  #8  
Old 09-26-2010
Chuck Chuck is offline
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On My 79" the safe had flanges welded to the sides and lag bolts to the floor. One of the flanges was located under the heater.
The safe was built by Major safe Co. in California. It is a round door that used their own lock with the wheels from Sargent and Greenleif. The body is mild steel 3/16 to 1/4" thick.
It is posable to open it from the bottom drilling a large hole as suggested. Then remove the door back cover. having one person watch the wheels, as the second turns the dial, to align the gates on the wheels with the fence. Note: when the back cover is removed a spring loaded relock is triped. This prevents the locking bolts from retracting.
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  #9  
Old 09-27-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curtsprenger View Post
From my notes...if you have the numbers...

Safe Opening:

I called LA GARD Inc., Lock Systems, Torrance, CA 310 325-5670. Their info. helped me open our safe.

Try this...
Left 4 or more turns and stop on 1st combination number.
Right two times and third time stop on the 2nd number.
Left one time and 2nd time stop on the 3rd number.
Right till dial stops, about half a turn.

Worked for me...found 4 rolls of quarters in the safe.

I only found a summons along with an I.O.U. in mine
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  #10  
Old 09-27-2010
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The relock worries me. The PO drilled the dial out.
nothing functions from the outside.

So I will be turning dials from the inside....

The relock sounds like a big problem for me.
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