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  #1  
Old 10-08-2015
dmbertrand dmbertrand is offline
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Default 2002 LXi SS- AIR LEAKS & AUXILIAR AIR SYSTEM(S)

All

Looks like I am going to be chasing down multiple leaks on the house air system.

I assume the 12 VDC Thomas compressor for the Microphor (and slide seal) has been removed and not replaced, it is not there! The 120 VAC aux compressor runs continuously due to air leaks. It appears output from this 120 VAC compressor feeds bulkhead fitting to AD-9 dryer and thence small air tank now feeds (backfeeds) off house aux system only.

My jury rig proposal is to disconnect and plug feed to aux bulkhead fitting, feed small air tank only by output for 120 VAC compressor and then chase down leaks on house system using shop air. Purpose is to have operating toilet and slide seal while on shore power until house leaks almost eliminated.

All comments appreciated.

Dean
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  #2  
Old 10-08-2015
BrianS BrianS is offline
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I am in same boat. Decided maybe my aux compressor needs servicing, have ordered the rebuild kit from GoPro (Not the camera people). If it has never been serviced, it is past time.
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  #3  
Old 10-08-2015
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Seems lots have air leak issues, but not much discussion on WOG? I did find this thread - http://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.co...ad.php?t=20975. Might be helpful.

Have been wondering how well cheap eBay Ultrasonic Leak Detector works, like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ultrasonic-L...-/331345960144. Found lots of high $$ units but hard to justify those for rare use on the bird.

So far no major air leaks on mine but know it's just a matter of time
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  #4  
Old 10-08-2015
rrueckwald rrueckwald is offline
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I had the same problem when I bought mine 2 1/2 years ago. The major culprit was the castering tag air cylinder. Does yours have the castering tag? If so, start there.

I replaced every push fitting I could find with DOT fittings, which are FAR less leak prone than the fittings with the little green plastic ring. In that process I found several leaks, one above the TV in a tee fitting for the air horns.

If you do change the plumbing of the 110vac air compressor, remember to change the source of the air line to its pressure switch to the toilet/seal tank.

By the way, I learned the expensive way by removing the tag axle air cylinder and having it rebuilt while having an arm built to replace the cylinder for driving. The easy way would have been to put a solenoid valve on the supply to that air cylinder and operate it off the ignition switch so that part of the system is sealed off when not driving.

If you are going to be at WOG or the BB Chapter rally in Webster,FL., I'll show you a lot more improvements in that system on my bus.
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  #5  
Old 10-09-2015
dmbertrand dmbertrand is offline
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All:

Appreciate replies.

Ron:

1. Unit does not have castering tag.

2 Intention is to convert pneumatic Fittings to DOT type as leaks found.

3. Unit does not have Gast compressor. 120 VAC compressor is Jun Air Item # 2882200, Model OF 302. I believe pressure switch is internal.

4. Unit presently being serviced by Florida Detroit Diesel - Allison in Fort Myers. If not hung up on parts and unit roadworthy intend to be at Pine Mountain Site 206. Your offer to show additional improvements much appreciated.

5. Do you (or anyone) see any problem with my jury rig proposal to isolate feed from aux air compressor to small tank to maintain toilet operation and slide seal when on shore power until house leaks mostly eliminated. Intend to plumb such that small tank still fed by bus air when in transit.

Dean
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  #6  
Old 10-09-2015
rrueckwald rrueckwald is offline
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With no castering tag, your job is much easier finding leaks.

If it ever had a Gast compressor, and it probably did, the pressure switch may still be on the ceiling of the bay. It may be in use for the compressor you have.

I added a quality (not Lowes) water separator to keep the air drier going into those systems. Since the air is hot it won't work unless you make a condenser arrangement ahead of it. Amazing how much water comes out of it.
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  #7  
Old 10-09-2015
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It's been a couple of years since I tackled the leaks on my bus, but I was able to change the aux leakdown from about 1/2 hour to more than 24 hours (still have 50 psi at 24 hours). Hopefully I can remember all that I did. While I found some things with bubble leak detector my primary tools were mechanical in nature. I made up a bunch of assemblies consisting of ball valves and push connectors, and installed them in all of the lines, plus putting a gauge directly on one of the tank fittings. First thing I found was that with ALL lines closed off, the tank leaked like a sieve! This tank has, I think, 6 large nipples, and every one of them leaked. Required pulling the tank so that I could break the nipples out, goop them up, and reattach. There were other push fittings that were failing, with the worst being on one of the valves for the door step slide cover. I replaced all of the fittings, mostly with stainless-steel ones that Thomas Rembert supplied. Final thing I did was to add a mechanical air dual-needle gauge to the dash (surplus front/rear brake gauge I got from Randy) that is hooked up with one needle to the aux tank, and one to the coach side.

I wired in an outlet for the AC supply to the pump, and put a digital timer on it. The pump is plugged into the timer, and set to run for 10 minutes daily. It shuts off before the 10 minutes are up, so there is no head pressure problem. The timer has a battery internal that maintains its time during the period when no power is available at the socket (turned off by the pressure switch).
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  #8  
Old 10-10-2015
dmbertrand dmbertrand is offline
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Ron & Don

Thank you for replies.

Don:

1. Do you have 12 VDC compressor also.

Ron:

1. Can not read labels and totally follow your plumbing mods. Do you still have separate 12 VDC compressor?

2. Look forward to discussing further at Pine Mountain.

3. My present jury rig plan is to disconnect 120 VAC aux compressor feed to line to AD-9 dryer (per my drawings feed is direct to dryer then from dryer to wet tank), pipe plug bulkhead fitting. Will check that I have operational pressure switch.

4. Reconnect aux compressor to small air tank. May have to put in back up check valve. Compressor will build pressure but I suspect it has just about beat itself to death.

5. Install check valve in present in-feed line from bus aux air system to this small tank to prevent leak down and constant compressor run when on shore power but maintain bus aux air system when in transit.

6. Temporarily add desiccant dryer to out-feed of small tank to slide seal and toilet in-feed regulators.

I have no photo taking capability and no prior service records.

Dean
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  #9  
Old 10-10-2015
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I do have a 12V compressor, but I don't give it a chance to run if I can help it. They have poor life compared to the big ones.

I had forgotten about check valves. On mine there are two, one from the small tank to the main system, and one from the 12V compressor to the tank. Both leaked. I left them in place and just put another one in line with each.
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