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General Discussion of preventative/corrective maintenance and other technical issues regarding your coach that are not covered in other Mechanic's Corner categories (ex. refrigerators, water heaters, and compressors).

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  #1  
Old 01-31-2010
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susanmarycamilleri susanmarycamilleri is offline
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Default roof leak

After getting home, during the first rain storm I had water coming in the front cabinets. I first thought that it was coming in between the front cap and the body, but it was raining too hard to actually go and find it.
I found the leak. It was at the base of the search light that is mounted on the roof. With a mirror I could see the water running down a 1/4" bolt that came through the roof. it was one of four bolts that holds the light on. At first I thought that it might just need a little tightening, but when I got up on the roof the base of the light is plastic (I believe) and has already been over tightened. The base head a slight curve off of the roof as a result of the overtightened bolts. I suspect that it has been that way since new. As a result the caulking that was between the base and the roof had an obvious gap in it. I caulked all the way around and over the bolt heads with the clear sealant that I have. Geocel 2310 brushable tripolymer sealant ( I love this stuff). I have found that it works very well. I mask where I want it, brush it on, it starts to self level quickly, then remove the tape right away. It dries clear, very clear. I think I have it fixed.
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Old 09-29-2012
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Coos26 Coos26 is offline
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Curious how folks are cleaning off old sealant or calking. I have some externabond and want to start the process of fixing an unk leak in the roof in the front of my coach. Not a bad leak but a leak. Looked topside and found lots of calk, gunk, etc on seams, screw head, etc. How should I remove that junk and should it all be removed and cleaned or just the rough stuff?
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Old 09-29-2012
Rlbarkleyii Rlbarkleyii is offline
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Iremove the material with several different techniques. Heat gun; warm it up, don't fry the paint. use a soft chisel, plastic or wood that will not scratch and dig /scrape under old material. When warm or cold it will come right up, warm is just easier. Second I use rough steel wood if i want to remove all material inducing paint. You can re-apply most sealantss right on top of old if you level it somewhat with the steel wool and mineral spirts with is a solvent. Third, i clean the surface with either a good detergent and/or mineral sprits and then dry it with denatured alcohol to get the last remaining moisture. You are now ready to apply Geocel 2013 or similar sealant. Don't wast your money on their priming /prep compounds you just primed it with mineral spirits and alcohol as long as it is bone dry out. Be sure to plan your work to not do it on a day when it will rain before the sealant cures. Geocel is prety good on this point. If it sets for a couple of hours your good, the alkyd stuff is good material, but it is water soluble and it takes 24 hours to cure if it is dry and warm, if not you are in trouble.
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