any ideas on how to get the fridge going?

[Littlebird]

hey all. I tried to get the fridge going today with no luck. I opened the propane valve on the side of the bus behind the fridge and heard a clicking noise. Then I turned the button above the fridge to the on position and hit the button for propane. I don't think the pilot ignited. How do I tell? The PO said that there was something having to do with the clear plastic cap behind the fridge in the compartment but I did not understand. My band is hungry and if I don't get some food on hand, I may lose a digit! Ha!

[Turbokitty]

April,

I have found that it takes several tries to get some of the propane appliances going if the propane has been off for a while.

Will the fridge run on 110AC?

A model number will help with proper advice too

[gcyeaw]

April,
I usually light the stove, that means the propane is through the system.
If your ears are still working (remember I used to be in a band, and I am now hearing impared) you should hear a sound when the propane ignites if it is quiet and you are near the fridge.

There are valves behind the outside cover, check that they are on.

[bwinter1946]

On some models you can see the burner with a mirror. Also at night a blue glow can be seen again on some models. (BTW this is looking at the back of the refer through the outside access/vent door.)

Like Ryan said multiple attempts mat be necessary if the propane was off for a while.

Do you have a carbon monoxide sensor unit? If so is it on?

Oops. I meant propane leak detector. Is it working and on?

[Littlebird]

The fridge is a dometic royale RM3801 automatic energy selector. There is also a small black box under the fridge. Maybe that has something to do with it? I opened the propane tank and noticed that there is also a fridge valve near the propane valve. Anyone know what position that should be in?

[Niels Hansen]

I just had the same issue with the same fridge. In my case, the problem was the propane leak detector malfunctioned. Mine had a detector at the bottum of the fridge on the inside and another behind the outside access cover. Either one will shut down the electronic propane valve that is downstream from the manual valve. I removed the electronic valve and everything that was associated with it and replaced it all with a simple propane alarm much like a smoke alarm. Everything works again.

[gcyeaw]

April,
When the handle of the valve is in-line with the tubing the propane is on.

The propane detector should shut down all propane, not just the refrigerator. Due to possible changes made by provious owners, your system may be different.

[Frank W.]

Originally Posted by bwinter1946

On some models you can see the burner with a mirror. Also at night a blue glow can be seen again on some models. (BTW this is looking at the back of the refer through the outside access/vent door.)

Like Ryan said multiple attempts mat be necessary if the propane was off for a while.

Do you have a carbon monoxide sensor unit? If so is it on?

Oops. I meant propane leak detector. Is it working and on?

This "typing slip" brings up a great point. As made, our older busses do not have a CO (Carbon Monoxide) detectors. Having one on a RV is a potential life saver!

I recommend that everyone get a modern dual alarm smoke/CO detector and install it. A internal battery powered unit is simplicity itself to mount and maintain. Mount near rear bedroom door...out of direct airflow of AC.

[Buckeye Bird]

I am assuming (yeah...I know what that does) that the "black box" under the fridge is the propane detector. The original one in my '83 was a Marshall Brass unit that was tan in color, so you probably have a different or updated one. Check to see if there is an on-off switch or button on that unit. Also, when you are trying to light the fridge on propane, as was already mentioned, raise the lid on the stove and turn on the valve underneath and get one of your burners going to make sure you have propane to that point. If the stove works, then you know you have propane going through the system. Then when you turn on the fridge from the front you should hear a clicking noise about once per second. This is the igniter trying to light the burner behind the fridge. From the outside opening behind the fridge you may see a metal cover to the right side that only has a couple of screws holding it on. If you remove that cover you will be able to see if the burner is lighting. If you don't hear the once per second clicking after turning it on you may have a bad igniter. It may be possible to light it manually if necessary, as long as the thermocouple is working.
Good luck.

[Gene Mehr]

Make sure black box is on under the fridge rule # 1