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FC (Forward Control Unique Issues) If you have a unique issue with your FC model coach and it can't be answered in one of the other forums here, then this is where you can list it.......List your FC Parts here too.

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  #1  
Old 11-24-2008
popeye
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Default What's behind that panel?

In my 84 FCSB I want to add another AC outlet on the wall (driver's side) at the back end of the couch, above the end table. I'm trying to figure out what's behind the wall panel there - is there space for a low profile electrical box, and can I snake a AC wire down to the area below the couch? I removed some of the other switch plates/outlet covers to see what kind of space there might be but came away without a conclusion.

Anyone been there that can offer an opinion?

TIA
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  #2  
Old 11-24-2008
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tulipvendor50 tulipvendor50 is offline
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Default AC outlet

HI:

From what I have been able to deduce from my coach, there is not much back there, except foam. It would be easy to put a shallow box but I would not take it from below, why not pick a circuit from in the raceway in the upper cabinets. It would be easy to snake a cable down there I would think.
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  #3  
Old 11-24-2008
popeye
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Default What's behind...

The reason to go from below is that I have diconnected the defunct battery warmers and now have an available AC circuit. I can snake under the couch, drilll a hole in the cabinet bottom (if necessary) and snake up to the outlet location. Make sense????
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  #4  
Old 11-25-2008
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Default AC outlet

Pete:

Are you thinking of actually going right under the coach, or just taking the run from the switch at the end of the couch, running it under the couch and make a hole there, then snake it up.
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  #5  
Old 11-25-2008
Frank W. Frank W. is offline
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Default Outlet

When I read your posting, my first reaction was..."hey, there is an outlet there already"

Just as an FYI...on my '85 FC there is an outlet centered at the rear of the small end table mounted with the bottom edge of the box about 2" above the top surface of the table. This is mounted on the coach outer wall; not the bathroom wall. Looking at the area under the pull out couch there are some 2" round holes drilled at the rear end to allow cables into the wall. I can see perhaps 2"-2-1/4" of area depth between the inner and outer metal skin (mostly foam filled space). I have one romex style cable that would seem to be 120vt running into a hole here and tilting up...sort of toward where the outlet is.

In feeling around, it also feels like the rear of the end table cabinet has a false back that also provides a possible route for your wireing project.

IMO: Based on how my coach is made (of course you know how even same year coaches can differ) the under the couch and up the wall idea seems to be your best approach. If this did not work, you could surface mount a nice finished trim box and run some of that flat finished style conduit for the 2" or so from the top of the cabinet to your new outlet box.

An outlet there is very handy, we use it for our charging stations for cameras and 2way radios.
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Old 11-25-2008
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Default AC Outlet

Frank:
Not on mine, the only one on that side is on the left side of the drivers seat.
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  #7  
Old 11-26-2008
popeye
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Default

UPDATE - There's foam behind that panel, and a steel cross member.

The project turned out well, but I was lucky... I tried to attach pictures but I'm technologically challenged in this regard.

The first thing was to locate where I wanted the outlet. I elected to take power from the battery warmer circuit; I removed the warmers and terminated the AC line in the junction box in the battery compartment (that box will be filled with an duplex receptacle in the future).

I wasn't sure what I'd find behind the wall panel - sometimes the answer is in plain view! Looking at the wall and the drapes I realized the manual mechanism was screwed to the wall just to the right of where I wanted to be. I removed the screws that anchored the mechanism and used a hangar to "plumb the depths". Looked like 2"+

After confirming that the battery warmer circuit was hot (in my coach it was the bathroom circuit) I started snaking wire. Under the couch was easy, though a little tricky passing under the cabinet/ducting for the Suburban heater.

Next I snaked wire under couch to the back end of the couch where wiring was already passing under the end table. This is where I ran the the wiring for the new outlet.

In my coach the end table has two drawers, and a return for the Cruiseair below them. I removed the drawers and took the vent off the face of the cabinet to get under the table. The top drawer is very long... more on that later.

Next step was to cut the wall liner with a razor knife. I cut the fiberboard with a Fein Multitool (great tool) and very gingerly pushed into the foam insulation. I was lucky there were no wires buried in the spot I chose but you will want be to careful.

Once I had the outlet box "excavated" I probed the foam for a route down to the floor. Guess what - there's a longitudinal stringer that runs underneath the windows, and it was right in line with where I wanted to go - almost. Here's where the luck comes in. From above the stringer was about 3" from the opening I made. If I was lucky (and I was) I would be able to get just below the bottom of the table surface, but just above that steel stringer. Bingo. I have a picture that shows the hole as close as I could get it to the underside of the table, and it was just high enough to clear the stringer.

My coach has the Cruiser air return under the driver side of the end table, boxed in 3/4" plywood. I was able to reach in from the front with a hole saw and drill a hole to pass the wiring through. I have long arms, though not quite long enough as it turned out. I snaked the wire up from below, passed it through the box and wired the outlet.

From here on it was relatively easy - except that I didn't take into consideration the extra length of the top drawer. After I had everything tied together I tried to put that drawer back in, only to discover that it was hitting the wire at the back of the cabinet. Turns out my reach into the back of the cabinet just wasn't long enough. Again I was lucky, there was enough extra length in the wire to press it to the top of the plywood Cruiseair enclosure and against the outside wall keep it from obstructing the drawer.

I'm pleased with how it turned out, I only wish I could attach the pix.

I'm not the best technical writer so if anyone has any questions please feel free to contact me.
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Peter & Margaret (Popeye & Olive)
'84 FCSB
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  #8  
Old 11-26-2008
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by popeye View Post
UPDATE - There's foam behind that panel, and a steel cross member.

The project turned out well, but I was lucky... I tried to attach pictures but I'm technologically challenged in this regard..........................

I'm pleased with how it turned out, I only wish I could attach the pix.

I'm not the best technical writer so if anyone has any questions please feel free to contact me.
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Peter & Margaret (Popeye & Olive)
'84 FCSB

Well Pete, if you email me the pictures I will add them for you and as far as a grade on your technical writing is concerned, it looked just fine to me, but the most important part is that you are pleased with how it turned out.

Read this How can I add a photo to the body of my message? and if you still have a problem adding a photo either way, just send those photos to iamflagman@aol.com and I'll add them for you.
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  #9  
Old 11-26-2008
popeye
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Default What's behind that panel...

UPDATE:
Thanks to John for his input on pictures. I'm going to try again here...
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