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PT & WB (Twin Axle Pusher Unique Issues) If you have a unique issue with your PT or WB model coach and it can't be answered in one of the other forums here, then this is where you can list it....list your PT Parts here too.

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  #1  
Old 12-20-2017
oldmansax oldmansax is offline
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Unhappy How to remove the transfer switch?

Looks like my transfer switch is failing. Low voltage on one leg. I have to fool with the knob to make it connect.

How do I remove it? Mine is located by the entrance door, left of step well. I found a thread that said remove the co-pilot seat, carpet, and a bunch of screws; but the switch only moved an inch or so. Anyone actually done this?

TOM
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  #2  
Old 12-20-2017
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Randy Dupree Randy Dupree is offline
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I was just talking with somebody about this,i have not done it,good luck.










Just kidding,my suggestion was to toss that expensive rotary transfer switch and put an automatic transfer switch in place of it.

Pay attention,this sounds easy to me,but you may get a headache!

Find a good spot in the rear of the bus,close to where the shoreline comes into the bus,and near the load center.
Mount the new auto transfer switch back there,run the 50amp shore cable to it,toss the 2 30amp ones,you don't need them.
Run the out cable to the load center.
Now all you need to do it connect the genny to the transfer switch,but you DO NOT need to run a cable from the genny back to the transfer switch.
The genny cable is already hooked to the rotary switch by the door,and the power cable from the rotary is already run to the load center in the back.
So,remove the rotary switch,hook the genny wires to the wires going to the back of the bus,unhook the genny wires from the load center and hook them to the transfer switch. Bingo,20 minutes and your done!

does that make sense?
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  #3  
Old 12-20-2017
oldmansax oldmansax is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Dupree View Post
Bingo,20 minutes and your done!
That is the most outrageous thing I have ever heard!

So far, EVERYTHING I have ever attempted on a Wanderlodge took more then 20 minutes!!!

However, I'm with you on doing away with the old switch. I am going to replace it with two 100 amp HVAC contactors. I like manual switching and I can install a voltage monitor that disconnects at whatever voltage I want. I did the same thing on my MCI and it worked like a charm. I didn't think of using the existing wires to move the switch though. Thanks for the idea!

What I am concerned about is how to actually remove the switch and get to the wires. Almost everything on a 'Bird has some trick to it. I would prefer not to have to resort to the Sawzall!

I'm wondering can I just remove the seat from the mount or does the mount have to come up too? Also, once I get the seat up and the carpet and all the screws, what else has to happen before I can get the switch out? The other thread said everything was loose but would not move over an inch or so; then there was no further posts on that subject.

TOM
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Old 12-20-2017
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Yep,the 20 min thing is for sure a joke!
I have looked at those switchs down in that hole,and wondered how the heck they put wires on it.
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Port St Joe Fl.
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  #5  
Old 12-20-2017
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Have you seen THIS post from 7 years ago? Some good info there including a “Barth” rewire link and wise advice in post #9 to not let an ATS do its thing under load. Thankfully, on the M380 the ATS & wiring is easily accessed in the 1R bay (that BB so wisely installed right next to 500# of lead & sulphuric acid batteries “fueled” by 150 gal of diesel ). That’s the Lyght ATS above the box that’s torn apart in the photo below. The 50a Esco Lyght LPT50BBS ATS is still available for $200 from dryersonline.com. Wiring it will be the trick for your PT.

Have never seen a bus project consume only 20 min. It takes me that long to change the windshield wipers, let alone rewiring a coach electric system (which I’ve partially done)

Good luck with it!
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Old 12-20-2017
oldmansax oldmansax is offline
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I hadn't seen that post. Lots good info there but I am a manual kinda guy. I guess no one has actually removed one of these or, made such a mess of it that they have blocked it out of memory. LOL! Maybe some one will remember before I actually have to tackle this job. It's still working for now.

TOM
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Old 12-21-2017
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I think it might be easier to disassemble the box from the front wheel well.
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Old 12-21-2017
oldmansax oldmansax is offline
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Shane, I was thinking along that line as well. Hopefully, the switch will last until warm weather.

TOM
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Old 12-21-2017
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Way back i had a girl that worked for me.
She could do any task in the shop and if we got slow she would go imto the house and vacuum,as long as she could have the tv on.

If i asked he to do any task,she would say,20 minutes,no problem!.
So i still say every job is 20 minutes.
Even though it may take 20 hours!
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  #10  
Old 12-21-2017
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The problem with the rotary switches is that they will burn the contacts up if switched when there is a load on them. Always make sure everything is turned off when you switch it or that the source power is off when you switch.

The other problem is that they are expensive if you need to replace them.

If you don't go with an auto transfer, the other option is a combination of breakers with a slide safety so only one source can be used at a time. This is also expensive but it will last much longer than a rotary switch.
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