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Old 03-16-2012
1derer 1derer is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: tucson
Posts: 378
Default Bath sink drain rerouted direct to toilet bowl

Been doing some remuddling and have arrived at a question: Since the bath sink drains into the black tank anyway, why not have it drain into the toilet bowl to help keep it cleaned, maybe retain a pool of water as in a proper toilet, etc. First one needs to adapt from the sink drain pipe size to the approx 1/2" tubing that connects the internal toilet components. The tubing routing in mine and I suppose most everybody's is:
clean water enters the toilet system when the foot pedal for that is depressed, allowing the water to go to a mechanism near the top outside of the bowl. A tube exits the mechanism and goes to the top of the bowl where its water enters the bowl. To this point, things intrisically make sense to me. However, another tube exits the bowl entry point and goes to the bottom of the toilet where it connects to another point in the toilet. I have no idea what this is about. But I assume the ideal point to introduce bath sink water to the bowl is with a T put in the line that feeds the bowl, just before the bowl feed. Anybody got a better idea? If not, I'll report what happens and if the results suggest experimenting with a different entry point. - To guard against the nightmare scenario of a sudden tsunami of sink water floating away the throne sitter, I'm speculating that the standard large size drainage pipe will accomodate some of said onrush. The 1/2" tubing internal to the toilet ought to let it in more gradually. If need be the large pipe could empty into a pitcher sized container that could then feed the smaller internal tubing in the toilet. I'm sure it can be dealt with one way or another. And of course there's always human communication, as from the sink user to the toilet user, or vice versa. (With the possible exception of sink users who are in fact just undercover practical jokers .)

I have put this in terms anybody can use. Actually, my remuddling is somewhat more extensive: In my Bird, the bath is in the middle of the bus. The toilet is against the fore (front) end of the bathroom. So that somebody could wash their hands/shave/etc and leave the toilet's occupant in peace and privacy, I mounted a second bath sink on the other side of the wall the toilet is against. This sink is mounted fairly high over the couch, allowing head or foot room for a couch sleeper. (The sink is accessed by standing in the aisle because it's big enough to reach that far out from under the overhead cabinets. It's actually a double kitchen sink, with the smaller basin close to the wall being used as a shelf that things can't fall off of. Though water flow is more than adequate, it it minimized to a degree by this second "bath" sink being fed by 1/4" pex. As it is the most remote water outlet from the water heater, I've also included a metal valve whose handle protrudes from the top of the sink so that a user could turn on the hot water without actually using any until the metal handle of this valve feels warm or hot. The hot water doesn't actually get used until the sink's hot tap is turned on, because the hot water for the metal valve just goes back to the water tank at the back of the bus. This is a cheap way of doing the "chlli pepper" thing, and without needing to use 120volt power (which the chllip pepper requires). If somebody is nervous about sleeping on the couch with their head or feet under a sink, they can move farther forward on the couch because I removed the original small cabinet that was between the driver seat and the couch and extended the couch to that area by just replacing the cabinet with a removable shelf low enough to provide a foundation for the couch bottom cushion. Removable so that if somebody doesn't want to clamber over the dog house to get into the driver seat, they can get rid of the shelf for awhile and slide the driver seat far enough back so they can get on it without hopping over the doghouse. With the shelf in place, the couch can accomodate as many couch sitters as it did before the sink was added. Or a 7'4" tall sleeper, provided he doesn't object to his feet or head being under the sink. (Drain and P trap are both quite close to the wall the sink is mounted on.) Though it's mounted high, a short child could use it while standing on the couch. Or, since it's mounted on adjustable shelf brackets, it can be lowered on outings when the advantages of its being high are not needed.

The idea to send sink water to its fate via the toilet was inspired by one or two forum threads about extended boondocking and making water onboard last. Some people found it helped to use wastewater (as in using hot water before it's hot out of the tap) to use for toilet cleaning. The idea just automates such efforts. -- In response to wildly popular (2) demand, I'm including some pix of this project to date. One shows the drainage from the sink as it enters the bathroom behind where the toilet normally is (Toilet is temporarily out for setting this up. I won't try to photo the routing inside the toilet since I'm not set up for colorectal photography.) Unrelated things in the photos you might wonder about are the two gate valves over the bath vanity. These enable a shower/garden hose faucet mounted on the outside side of the vehicle's bathroom. Another small valve on the sink surface is a gate value to bring hot water to the sink without using up hot water. After a few seconds indicated by the warming gate valve, hot water can be had instantly out the sink's hot water tap instead of waiting around for running water to get hot. No electric power is needed for this beyond running the only water pump onboard. A yardstick is in the sink pix to show 15" clearance between sofa top and sink bottom, and 9" clearance between sink drain and wall sink hangs from, though the p trap piping is adjacent to this wall. I took the pic (before probably painting it brown) so you can see it better in the pic.
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'75 FC Cummins 8.3
Tucson, AZ

Last edited by 1derer; 03-29-2012 at 02:18 PM.
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Old 03-17-2012
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sanibel sanibel is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Sanibel
Posts: 894

Half inch hose will drain slooooooowwwww.
Be aware that you are connecting grey water directly to your fresh water system. Not exactly in keeping with best sanitary practices, but a check valve might keep them from mixing upstream. Germs are little things and good swimmers tho.
John (and Robin) Churchill
Black Tongue Farm
Sanibel, FL

1979 FC33 Buddy Luce's bus (looking for a name)

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Old 03-17-2012
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Sometimes even grey water has an odor to it. Not sure I would want that. Just a thought.
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Old 03-17-2012
AC7880 AC7880 is offline
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"maybe retain a pool of water as in a proper toilet"

If your coach toilet wil not retain a pool of water, it is time to replace the gaskets and flush ball.
Sold the BMC, left the forums.
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Old 03-17-2012
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Ernest Ekberg Ernest Ekberg is offline
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Location: Weatherford, Tx
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I need to see photos of all this
Ernie Ekberg
Prevost Liberty 45 XL
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Old 03-17-2012
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birds_first birds_first is offline
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Originally Posted by AC7880 View Post
"maybe retain a pool of water as in a proper toilet"

If your coach toilet wil not retain a pool of water, it is time to replace the gaskets and flush ball.
Sorry but it might be my pooo but that is one job I think I will pass on to the next owner. Replacing the dump valves is a bad enough job.
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Old 03-18-2012
Clueless Clueless is offline
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You will need a pump for this.
David Styf
82 FC 33 SB SOLD
89 SP 36 Silver Edition SOLD
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Valparaiso, In./Baldwin, Mi.
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Old 03-18-2012
AC7880 AC7880 is offline
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Originally Posted by birds_first View Post
Sorry but it might be my pooo but that is one job I think I will pass on to the next owner. Replacing the dump valves is a bad enough job.

It's not too bad of a job. First scrub toilet with clorox bleach, including holding the foot pedal open to scrub around the ball and inside with a toilet brush. Use plastic disposable gloves for the rebuild.

No worse than changing a babies diapers - a little less so.
Sold the BMC, left the forums.
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Old 03-26-2012
fxdwg fxdwg is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: okc
Posts: 3,843


The second water connection at the bottom of the stool is to start the Venturi effect when you flush. It helps to suck the bowl empty.

The thought of utilizing the gray from your extra sink certainly has merit, but you'd definitely need to fix the flapper seal in the bowl in addition to anything else. Since the toilet tank will act as your checkvalve, I'm not sure you need to add another. But it certainly could hurt. The tough part will be finding one to operate under such low pressure (gravity from the tank feed.
96 WTOS 42'

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Old 03-27-2012
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jasonwarner jasonwarner is offline
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Location: Yukon
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Default Interesting Idea

I may have not read this thread with enough attention, so please forgive me if that is the case. I'm gathering that the idea behind the modification is to better utilize water used in the sink or in other words, perhaps conserve the use of additional water in the toilet. Are most of our toilets designed to drain automatically if there is too much water in the bowl? I know household toilets will only allow so much water in the bowl provided the drain is not clogged. If this is not the case, I do suppose there would be a risk of overflow if you used too much water in the sink between flushes.

Jason Warner
Yukon, Oklahoma
1990 SP36
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