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Travel Tips - Fuel Prices Everyone has travel tips. Share and discuss yours here with the rest of the group.

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  #11  
Old 02-09-2011
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G_man G_man is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sfedeli View Post
What we learned traveling back from Q in very cold temps was that the Aquahot could not maintain a safe temperature for Rick Archie's coach. I'm sure that a larger burner could have delivered more BTU's, but .3GPH x 115000 BTU/gal is only 34,500. Given the heat loss from single pane windows and A/C units, the newer coach just could not stay warm with the burner on 100% of the time He lost a pipe behind the shower and the fresh water line in one bay froze up, even with the bay heaters on. At moderate temps, such as the 30's and 40's F, it would be fine and probably more economical to run the Aquahot. In temps below 15 F, I'd run the genny all night to be safe and put a space heater or two in the fresh water tank bay. Heat tape is a must on the Sporlan valve too. His was mounted to the floor of the bay and heat does not get down there too easily.
Properly set up the Webasto burner ADDS approximately 40,000 BTU's to the engine waste heat while going down the road. You should have well in excess of the 40,000 BTU's (as much as triple that) and still keep up the engine temperature to a proper operating level. I am told that the waste heat alone from a Detroit diesel is ample to heat a 6 room stick house! We operated in very cold temps and the Webasto burner hardly ran at all while the engine was working. As mentioned there are a couple of problem areas that need insulation.
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Last edited by G_man; 02-09-2011 at 01:52 PM. Reason: Clarification and spelling
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  #12  
Old 02-09-2011
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On my '95, the AquaHot provided plenty of heat in weather down to 14 degrees, both parked and on the road. As others have said, in a retrofit of an older coach, you may need to add insulation or bits of heat tape here and there.

Indeed, when I replaced my floor, I discovered that a pipe serving the galley that ran through a 'chase' against the exterior wall in the hall between the galley and bedroom had OEM heat tape on it. (With the WBDA floor plan, the bath is to one side with a hall that passes by.) Apparently, this was identified as a potential 'cold spot' where the heat was unlikely to penetrate. I also had some minor freezing problem with the dump valves in the basement "utility" bay. (Salt in the holding tanks helped alleviate that.) As suggested, a bit more insulation in that area would probably have helped considerably.
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  #13  
Old 02-09-2011
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Replace the single pane windows with thermopane and you will be amazed by the difference, both in temp and sound control.
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  #14  
Old 02-09-2011
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Wow, a wide variety of results/conclusions. To be clear, I do mean the Aquahot/Webasto unit.

One thing I noticed was the mention of single pane glass. I was thinking my LXi has thermopane, but maybe I'm wrong. I'm sure it is in the door and driver side as it has fogged somewhat. Luckily I live near the place that fixes window fogging in Hudson, Fl. (Sun Coast Design).
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  #15  
Old 02-09-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moonbeam express View Post
Wow, a wide variety of results/conclusions. To be clear, I do mean the Aquahot/Webasto unit.

One thing I noticed was the mention of single pane glass. I was thinking my LXi has thermopane, but maybe I'm wrong. I'm sure it is in the door and driver side as it has fogged somewhat. Luckily I live near the place that fixes window fogging in Hudson, Fl. (Sun Coast Design).
Corey could you elaborate on the fix for fogging, cost etc. Several of us have this problem and would be interested in any info you might have
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  #16  
Old 02-09-2011
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if it is done correctly
the gasket is replaced and the void is evacuated and the argon gas is replaced
this operation can be performed at many places in the US and Canada
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  #17  
Old 02-09-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Robinson View Post
Corey could you elaborate on the fix for fogging, cost etc. Several of us have this problem and would be interested in any info you might have
I had my Barth driver's side and door done at Sun Coast Design. They are very good at it, it is pretty much all they do. Cost runs around $250 to $300 for a med size window (a little less if you remove and send) and the process is as Stephen described it. I know it takes a lot of machinery to do it right, they have machines that strip down the glass, clean it then reseal in an oven with the Argon.

At Sun Coast Designs they have a mini camping area free to those using their service. They even have power at the little sites. When I was there, there were RVs from all over the country and Canada. The tough ones are the new flush mount windows.
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  #18  
Old 02-09-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by susanmarycamilleri View Post
Replace the single pane windows with thermopane and you will be amazed by the difference, both in temp and sound control.
hi is this something that you have done?? i was just talking to wife about that it was-8 here just a thought have no idea how practical this would be.
mike
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  #19  
Old 02-09-2011
jwasnewski jwasnewski is offline
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Shane.

There must be some operating problem with that Webasto or Aquahot. It gets 5 degrees around here in the winter. I will tell you, if I ran my system full blast I would need to go outside, and I am not kidding.
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  #20  
Old 02-09-2011
cmillsap
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moonbeam express View Post
Wow, a wide variety of results/conclusions. To be clear, I do mean the Aquahot/Webasto unit.

One thing I noticed was the mention of single pane glass. I was thinking my LXi has thermopane, but maybe I'm wrong. I'm sure it is in the door and driver side as it has fogged somewhat. Luckily I live near the place that fixes window fogging in Hudson, Fl. (Sun Coast Design).
Corey,

I would be surprised if your LXi does not have thermopane windows?

Chuck
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