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  #1  
Old 06-10-2009
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thomas_sorrentino thomas_sorrentino is offline
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Default Wanderlodge Toilet Flange

From reading on the internet as much as I could. It seems there are glued in toilet flanges and threaded in toilet flanges. Does anybody know off hand which ones Wanderlodge used?
As usual a quick simple project has turned into more. It started with me wanting to re-do the grout in the bathroom floor. Turns out it wasn't grout but some kind of silicone that was quite tedious to remove! Then Mr. Shane Fedeli (aka:Brisket Boy) suggested if I had gone that far why not replace the tile. Than he also suggested if I was going to replace the tile, why not put a heated floor in like he did. Well I must confess, I've traveled in his coach and that heated bathroom floor is really, really nice! So here I am with the old tile all removed, the warm tile heating system in hand. Thinking ahead the floor is going up about 3/8" higher than original. I'm trying to figure out if I can raise the toilet flange the 3/8" (if it's threaded maybe I can just back it out a little or maybe they make longer ones). Or tile up to it, and do they make a thicker toilet gasket? Maybe someones already done this and can tell me what they found worked best. Thanks for all inputs.
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Old 06-10-2009
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Tom,

If its like ours it is threaded. You can buy a spacer to accommodate the higher floor at camping world. Then there is a soft rubber gasket between the toilet and the spacer not wax like residential. I went through this when I put in the new toilet over the tile floor. Here are some photos.

Bill
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  #3  
Old 06-10-2009
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Bill,
I like the toilet placement, in the kitchen. That way you don't have to leave the conversation to pee!
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Old 06-10-2009
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What a wise guy. I was waiting for something like that... and deserve it too. Here, is this better?
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Old 06-10-2009
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Home Depot also sells a repair kit for broken flanges that will allow you to raise it without much fuss. I used one in my garage as the floor was so poorly done that I had to modify things to get the stool to sit solidly. It works slick.
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  #6  
Old 06-11-2009
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So Bill, what your saying is that in the second picture you posted, you could turn that flange counter clockwise and it would unscrew and raise up? Also whats the official name of the toilet spacer from camping world?
John, I'll check out the Home Depot toilet flange repair kit also.
Thanks Guys!
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Old 06-11-2009
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Tom no, thats not what I'm saying. I don't know if the flange at floor level threads in or not. I was simply talking about the threaded anchor bolts. I would not mess with that flange! I'm pretty sure you don't need to if your existing flange is good, all you need to do is build it up and maybe get longer bolts. Could be you can also simply get a thicker soft donut to set the toilet on. Pretty sure the diameter of this is smaller than residential stuff so if you go to Home Depot, make sure you know that.

Not sure what the spacer is called. I went to the counter and told them what I was doing and the clerk tuned around a took one off the shelf. The more I think about this I may not have needed it in the end because the new soft donut was enough.

Bill
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  #8  
Old 06-11-2009
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I replaced the toilets in both the Napper and the Bella Mia. I didn't raise the floor but I can tell you that on at least one of them I tried to remove that flange. Don't remember why or which one but I never did get it loose. I assume it was rusted tight. Bill how did you get it loosened? I think if Tom can get the flange loose from the pipe it will be an easier and better way to do this. I remember hammering on mine with a cold chisel trying to budge it loose with no indication that it was ever going to move. I realized that I was going to get myself into a lot of trouble if I either broke something loose lower down the "food chain" or it I damaged the flange and could not get it off. So how did you manage. Thinking about this as I write I think the problem was lining up the new toilet bolts with the slots in the flange. Something wasn't lining up correctly. If he raises the floor 3/8 he is going to have handle this one way or the other.

OK, Bill, I see that you didn't remove the flange. From experience using those foam seals if Tom raises the floor 3/8 they alone are not going to do the job. Tom, I think you will find that in addition to the spacing difference the bolts will not line up correctly. I believe that I ended up lagging the toilet down. Only way I could manage it since that flange would not move. I'll be interested in what you come up with, for future reference.
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  #9  
Old 06-11-2009
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I'm not sure how Wanderlodge did it but every other installation I've seen are glued in and then attached to the floor by screws. When I tiled my '63 conversion I merely used a thicker donut gasket from Home Depot and have not had any issues with it. In fact, I bought a porcelin toilet and used a raised pedistal (3 or 4") so I had to use gaskets on top and bottom of the pedistal without issue.
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  #10  
Old 06-11-2009
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I DID NOT remove the flange. I said "I would not mess with the flange." Mine appears to be Schedule 80 PVC and cemented and screwed in place. Unless yours is broken, I think trying to take this off is a BAD IDEA.

If you can get a new soft (rubber) gasket to fit over the base of the toilet outlet that is thick enough to bridge the gap between the top of the flange and the floor and compress tightly against the toilet this is your best bet. Perhaps two soft gaskets would be better than a spacer and a gasket.

The spacer is simply a big washer. If you use the spacer you will want to seal it in place with something you can take apart. As John indicates, it may be difficult to remove and install new bolts. I'm pretty sure the flange has slotted openings to put these into place and I seem to recall having to dig out some old filler to expose the slots.

Again, I WOULD NOT MESS WITH TRYING TO REMOVE THE FLANGE. Doing so would likely get you into a world of SH-T

Bill
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