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General Discussion of preventative/corrective maintenance and other technical issues regarding your coach that are not covered in other Mechanic's Corner categories (ex. refrigerators, water heaters, and compressors).

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  #1  
Old 09-25-2019
ERWIN O ERWIN O is offline
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Default samsung rf 18 install

As I continue with the interior remodel I bit the bullet and pulled out the original dometic refrigerator. Searched and searched for a replacement that would not require the removal of the top cabinet. You all have done the research already so I am not sure why I wasted my time. And the top cabinet is easily removed. The panels off the doors of the old Dometic (per a thread recommendation) will be used to cover the gap at the top.

My real question is: Is this a plug and play deal? There is a 120V outlet in the back the Dometic was plugged into. And there was a water line for the ice maker. Do I just hook the Samsung up to the existing connections, or is there something I'm overlooking because it seems too easy?

Thanks
Erwin
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Old 09-25-2019
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You will need to seal the roof vent and the vent in the side wall. the rest is plug and play. You will need good house battery bank to power your inverter when not plugged in.
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Old 09-26-2019
ERWIN O ERWIN O is offline
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Rick
Thanks for the quick reply. That’s good news for me. Blocking off the vents was already in my plan. The amount of bugs leaves etc on top of the Dometic was frightening.

Erwin
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Old 09-26-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ERWIN O View Post
As I continue with the interior remodel I bit the bullet and pulled out the original dometic refrigerator. Searched and searched for a replacement that would not require the removal of the top cabinet. You all have done the research already so I am not sure why I wasted my time. And the top cabinet is easily removed. The panels off the doors of the old Dometic (per a thread recommendation) will be used to cover the gap at the top.

My real question is: Is this a plug and play deal? There is a 120V outlet in the back the Dometic was plugged into. And there was a water line for the ice maker. Do I just hook the Samsung up to the existing connections, or is there something I'm overlooking because it seems too easy?

Thanks
Erwin
Erwin, It isn't quite as simple as "plug and play". That outlet the Dometic is plugged into is 120v but only on shore or generator power, if it is like mine and many others. You will have two options. Find the wire that feeds that outlet in your main circuit box and change it over to the inverter. Or you can do as I did. When I took out the Demetic there was a drawer underneath. I took it out, because I did the install myself and wanted to be able to roll the new one in. When you tear out the platform the old Dometic sat on, you will see two junction boxes most likely. One will be for 120V circuits and the other should be for inverter circuits. There is where I tapped into the inverter power and ran a new line so I had two plug ins behind the fridge. One was inverter the other 120v. You can access both outlets from the outside vent. Which also needs to be sealed up behind the fridge. I used 2" foam board back there so I could remove it to gain access to the back of the fridge, should I need to. Here is a pic of the junction boxes.

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  #5  
Old 09-26-2019
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You might want to check this thread: https://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.c...=26896&page=15

Kev did the install last year and set his up with a dedicated inverter. I’ve never had a problem with my Magnum MS2812, but would be nice to have a power backup just in case. Rather than permanently sealing off the side door exterior access, blocking it off and insulating the door vents is the way to go. You might want to connect the RF18 drain pipe to your existing outside drain, rather than depending on the evap tray Samsung includes. Lastly, many older RF18’s (and many other Samsung models) have had problems with icing up of the refer box coils. No fix I tried including a new controller card & deicing coil replacement fixed the problem. Newer RF18’s have supposedly been fixed. However, I’d never trust another Samsung EVER so a slightly higher priced GE model will get installed this fall. Good luck with yours!
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Old 09-26-2019
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Before installing a residential fridge it would be prudent to read reviews. It is hard to find accurate reviews but Lowes and AJ Madison seem to be more accurate. Today's fridges are designed to last less than 10 years. More like 7. The aluminum coils are more like the thickness of tin foil. Units with an ice dispenser in the refrigerator section are known to have problems. Side by sides are hard to come by but have a better ice maker design. Many fridge techs say that LG and Samsung are not recommended. Parts are harder to get and expensive. GE has thousands of bad reviews. Frigidaire is also bad. They are all of poor quality but Whirlpool is better than most. Whirlpool includes Maytag, Jenn Air,Kitchen aid and a few others. Some mfrs. have a deluxe model but it is really not much better than the low end unit. Just a few more features. Very soon all fridges will have a new refrigerant R600A. This is isobutene and is highly flammable. The tools to recharge these units cost over $6000 and many techs say they will not do any repairs to these units. Not good.
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  #7  
Old 09-26-2019
ERWIN O ERWIN O is offline
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There is only one outlet behind the fridge. No junction box. I have removed the Bottom shelf. I will trace wire back to main breaker panel. I have a lot of experience with home wiring and automotive. But RV dual (inverter/shore) power is very new to me. I have some questions:
Do the inverter powered circuits have dedicated breakers in the panel?
Or do all the inverter powered items just run off one breaker or fuse?
Or does the breaker panel have 2 separate Bus Bars. One for inverted and one for shore?
Thanks
Erwin
Side question. Does your water pump need to be constantly on if you want to make ice?
And can you make ice while you are bouncing down the road?
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