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M380 (Unique Issues) If you have a unique issue with your M380 model coach and it can't be answered in one of the other forums here, then this is where you can list it.....list your M380 Parts here too.

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  #131  
Old 09-10-2019
DW SD DW SD is offline
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Hi Todd,
Glad you got this sorted!
Are you willing to post details about your lithium ion house bank conversion? Seems new-thread worthy!

Thank you, Doug
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Doug W.
Encinitas CA
2004 M380
Ex-PT36
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  #132  
Old 09-14-2019
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RVinCT RVinCT is offline
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Yes, I'll be happy to start a thread on that. I was planning to post a final message in this thread summarizing the oil pressure issues and some electrical issues. But first I had some vacationing to do, then the refrigerator failed, then one side of the coach wouldn' t inflate the airbags. Then we we had to move to another campsite, without network access.

The refrigerator problem turned out to be the control board 8 bit microcontroller chip. It was heat sensitive - wouldn't turn on the gas valve when it was cold. I "fixed" it by taping some strip light leds onto the chip to keep it warm, then ordered a Dinosaur Electronics Micro 711P replacement board and had it shipped to the closest town (30 miles away).

There's a thread about the leveling issue.
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Todd and Karen Pattist
Rockfall, CT
2007 Double Slide M380 "Bertie"
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  #133  
Old 09-14-2019
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The oil pressure:
It appears that there are two places where oil pressure can be measured. One is on the passenger side. That seems to be where Doc installed his adapter OP gauge. It's a metric thread. That location can be seen in the drawing of his adapter posted in this thread.

The second is on the other side (driver side) where BB installed their VDO pressure switch, which feeds the front and rear OP gauges in the BB and where I installed my mechanical OP gauge.

That location is a 1/8" NPT fitting as are many OP gauges, including mine. I bought a "T" female 1/8" NPT fitting and a "short" threaded male-male pipe that threaded into the block then into the T. It's very tight in there, which is why the short male-male was needed. I mounted the gauge in the left rear.

I'll eventually replace the VDO sensor since it currently reads zero when the pressure is really 25 psi. I imagine it has just gotten old and inaccurate.

Engine ECU power problem:
As to the actual engine shutdown and alarm/check engine light problem, it was the intermittent power to the engine ECU causing those issues (I think). There are supposed to be three 7.5A fuses feeding the Engine ECU power. Those fuses should be in the rear PDU next to the engine batteries. The wires can be seen in the schematic "Rear Cummins PDU" that BB supplied and in the Cummins schematics. The wires are labeled 1111D to 1111F. However in my rear PDU, only one of those fuses was labeled correctly. The other two were marked "Spare". If you look in the rear of the fuse panel, you find the correct wires, and I traced them to the ECU. They had the correct fuses in only 2 of the three locations. I don't know if that contributed to my problems, but I fixed it. If anyone tried to use the mismarked "spare" fuses, they would remove power from one of the required power wires to the engine ECU. The Cummins diagram also shows two 10A fuses supplying power to the ECU. I was able to verify that those two wires had power at the ECU, but I never found the fuses. They didn't seem to appear in the BB schematic.

BTW, it takes a 4mm hex Allen wrench to remove the two engine ECU power cable connectors from where they attach to the ECU on the engine block. There are 50 pins in each.

The old RoadRunner4 gave me the correct Cummins Fault Code of 434. The new Silverleaf did not. The info may have been in the Silverleaf codes, but not in the numbering that Cummins uses. Without the RR4, solving this would have been very hard as the power problems were spitting out lots of codes to the Silverleaf.

Finally, there was an odd issue with the engine compartment lights. They only have power with the front ignition on. I traced the BB schematic and it looks like they should turn on whenever the light switch in the engine compartment is on, regardless of whether the ignition is on. I don't know if other people have to turn on their ignition to get those lights to work. Eventually I will rewire the fuse box so I can turn them on without the ignition. Perhaps BB changed the design, or maybe it was my dealers hack job rearing its ugly head again.
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Todd and Karen Pattist
Rockfall, CT
2007 Double Slide M380 "Bertie"

Last edited by RVinCT; 09-14-2019 at 08:40 PM.
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  #134  
Old 10-16-2019
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I thought this problem was resolved, and perhaps it was, but ........

We'd been camping for 2 months in the same area until the Maine campgrounds closed for the season, so they kicked us out. We headed south and got about 15 miles out when the engine completely died. All lights on the dash were out. The RoadRunner4 had no power, no gauges, no speedometer, nothing in the front had any power except the transmission lights. The engine shut down and we coasted to a stop at the side of the road.

The engine would crank, but not start.

Bertie was so tilted we couldn't run the fridge. A few phone calls confirmed that Cummins couldn't help and the nearest place that could work on the engine was in Bangor, Maine. A tow there would cost about $3,000!

Eventually, we found a local who worked on Cummins and could at least provide some roadside assistance to look for the problem. After putting out the emergency road reflectors, I got out the schematics and started to check things. The fuses all were good. I decided to start at the engine batteries and work forward.

The engine batteries were good, and the engine battery disconnect was sending power through. Then I remembered from the schematics that the engine battery disconnect was double pole single throw. One pole (12v high power) disconnected the starter/alternator. The other pole (12v low power) handled other engine and dashboard power. It was reading 4.0 v DC on one side and 13v on the other side.

That wasn't right! With the disconnect switch closed the voltage should be the same on both sides of the switch. I grabbed a jumper wire and connected across that pole of the disconnect switch. The dash lights and gauges all came back!

That part of the switch is fused at 80A so my jumper wire was too small. I removed the cable from the bad outgoing side and connected it to the incoming power side to bypass that part of the switch.

The roadside repairman showed up then

The engine started and ran great. We're now at our next campsite after 4 hours of trouble free engine operation.

It's possible that the engine shutdown and power related issues we experienced in this thread were caused by that engine battery disconnect switch failing intermittently. ???

If your engine dies and your gauges lose power, but the starter still works, check the 80A side of the engine battery disconnect switch. Mine can't have been operated more than a hundred times or so in its entire life. It looks to be in perfect condition, but obviously, that's no guide.

I hope this will help someone else.
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2007 Double Slide M380 "Bertie"
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