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  #1  
Old 11-14-2012
ryoung ryoung is offline
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Default Cruise Air Repair

So over the winter I am looking to repair 2 of my 3 Cruise Airs. I was thinking of putting roof units in but am not a fan of cutting into a perfectly good non leaking roof. As I am not an AC guy, but very handy at fixing things, I thought I would try it myself or get it to a point where someone could assist me with the final part of the process. The one I would like to start with is the rear bedroom AC. It never has worked since I have owned it. The inside fan works and there is main power to the unit, but the compressor and fan do not work. As it is now hovering around freezing outside now, I am looking for some advise on where to start with this to expediate the process. I do not think there is a charge in the system, and I am not sure how to test the compressor to see if the system needs evacuated and tested for leaks first or if there is a way to test the compressor to see if the system needs removed and a new compressor put in to start the repair. Here are the tools that I have. A multimeter, A/C guages, a tank of R22, a supply of oil. Let me know where to start! Thanks in advance (from my wife who wants them fixed for next summer).
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Old 11-14-2012
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gcyeaw gcyeaw is offline
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I did some work on two Cruise airs in my '83. First off, check if there is any charge in the system, if not the compressor will not start. Also if not, then pull a vacuum and see if it holds, probably won't if it has leaked out.

OK, now here are some things I found. First, in the center unit plumbing there was a compression fitting union in the low pressure line where it enters the coach interior under the dinette seat. It leaked. It should have been a flair union to start with. Second, where the low pressure line makes a 90 degree bend over the top of the evaporator in the closet it was kinked. And finally the valve in the evaporator was blocked. I replaced the evaporator coil with a new design since the valve is no longer available.I also replaced the low pressure line and replaced the compressor (the old one blew the breaker as soon as it was engaged.

I paid a fortune to get it recharged and it lasted two weeks. A bad breaker at a campground caused low voltage and blew out the start capacitor. After putting in a new start cap and starting it the compressor wiring burned up and started to shoot flames. I put in a roof air.

With the rear unit I had better luck, a new compressor, fan motor and new lines (plus used the new evaporator from the center unit) and it is working fine.

It seems common for the valve in the evaporator to block up and I could not find one. They have a more recent evaporator coil design that uses capillary tubes instead. I got the coil not the whole evaporator unit.

I miss the quiet of the center unit, but this was the second try and it just wasn't cost effective to go for it again. Plus I got a good used roof air from a damaged coach for $150.

Now for the roof air installation I kind of wish I had given it more thought. If I had installed it in the roof above the closet where the center Cruise air duct is I could have ducted it to the existing grille and probably have reduced the noise and it would still look original inside. The unit I got was originally ducted so it has a remote thermostat.
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Old 11-14-2012
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Randy Dupree Randy Dupree is offline
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The first thing i would check is the T-Stat.
simply turn the knob and see if it turns smooth or is rough.
2nd is the caps.
3rd is the freon.
Everybody tests things differently.
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Old 11-14-2012
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Here's a thread on my roof air installation, well at least the exterior part.


http://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.co...of+air+install
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Old 11-14-2012
Pletcher Pletcher is offline
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Are the existing roof vents the same size as a roof air opening? What modifications would need done?
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Old 11-14-2012
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gcyeaw gcyeaw is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbwannabe View Post
Are the existing roof vents the same size as a roof air opening? What modifications would need done?
Yes, Most vent openings are 14 inches square (maybe 14 1/8). You need to make a wood frame between the roof and the interior ceiling material where the hold downs for the roof air unit attach. It's simple. Running the power Is not bad, you need 110 for the AC and 12 for the controls. I located the Cruise Air power source junction block and ran from there. That way the switches over the drivers head will work for the new AC.
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Old 11-14-2012
ryoung ryoung is offline
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Thanks for the starting points. I am sure there is no freon in the system. Does anyone know if there is a way to check to see if the compressor is good with no freon in the system?
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Old 11-14-2012
Pletcher Pletcher is offline
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Is it like a car where you could jump out the low pressure cut off switch?
I am in no means an A/C guy.
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  #9  
Old 11-14-2012
ryoung ryoung is offline
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It is but I am afraid that even running it for a couple of seconds could destroy the compressor if there is no freon in there as there would be no lubricant. I am curious if it is acceptable just to see if the compressor is still working.
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  #10  
Old 11-14-2012
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KERLEY KERLEY is offline
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Default Cruisair troubleshoot

On my cruisairs there is no low pressure switch only high pressure. The compressor will start and run with no charge. The oil will remain in the system unless you have a huge leak somewhere. Most home units have no safety switches at all high or low. When they spring a leak they just end up running and running.

I am with Randy check electrical first. If the condenser fan and compressor are not running you more than likely have something wrong there. My last compressor that failed still ran but didn't build much pressure. It sounded a little "tin canish" all of the sudden. It apparently had a valve problem. I have replaced 2 thermostats in the control that failed. You can jumper them at the switch and see what happens. They are available from a cruisair dealer. My back bedroom unit I adapted to a 24v home type system. I have it hooked to a digital programmable thermostat. Much cheaper and temp swing is better. Requires a transformer and a relay to be added.
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