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FC (Forward Control Unique Issues) If you have a unique issue with your FC model coach and it can't be answered in one of the other forums here, then this is where you can list it.......List your FC Parts here too.

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  #21  
Old 02-13-2013
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Turbokitty Turbokitty is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NH Bill View Post
Thanks for the heads up Mike.

Pretty sure driving the bus without that thing wouldn't be as much fun!

NH Bill
Got that right Bill!

Thanks for the good info too Mike H.
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Ryan and Michelle Saari
Timberlake Products Group, Inc.
1985 PT36
1983 FC35RB Left me for Atlanta!
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  #22  
Old 02-13-2013
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Mike,the bearing preload is done how?
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  #23  
Old 02-13-2013
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Shim packs, the guy working on it is expecting to spend much time puttering with it. His normal tasks are overhauling class 8 manual transmissions and differentials. I'm glad Badger Reman was willing to get busy on it, can't heave this stuff around any more with the back situation. Thrust clearance is .004. The forward bearing outer race moved little, probably spun a time or two but didn't take any material, green Loctite to the rescue.
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  #24  
Old 02-15-2013
Frank W. Frank W. is offline
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Mike....where exactly is the vent (where does the grease come out)?

I've loaded a quite a bit grease in there over the last decade...and never have seen where it comes out...
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  #25  
Old 02-15-2013
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That I can't say at this time as I was inspecting the bearing bore that the shaft pass's through, the zerk grease is fed directly into the bore between the facing taper bearings, like a bearing buddy for a trailer axle. There is a 1/4" copper tube in the bore that vents the area, didn't see where it comes out, get out the bright lights crawl around the retarder and look for a piece of tubing sticking out some where. I won't be back to the shop for a couple weeks, will learn more then.
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  #26  
Old 03-23-2013
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Hello: In addition to greasing the bearing for lubrication, I noted from reading and just some physics, that these units get very very hot during use. A fellow in the business told me they get red hot in mode 4. Replacing cooked grease is a good idea. Perhaps using a high temperature grease may be a good idea also. I used a blue colored high temp grease in a Chevy Van drive shaft rear universal that ate needle bearings quite regularly and solved that problem.
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  #27  
Old 03-23-2013
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Yep, they get pretty warm. A while back I painted the fly wheel of the retarder with 800 degree red engine paint.... thought it looked cool

The following fall I was headed down I24 from Johnson City to Asheville (I think 7 miles or so about 5-6%) and wanted to stay off the service brakes as much as I could. I needed new rear shoes and was planning on replacing them at Coachworx when I arrived. Well, about 2/3s the way down I pulled off at a rest area and wanted to put the IR thermometer on the retarder.... I knew it was getting hot.

When I got under to check it, the paint was burning off and when I put the IR on it from curbside it was reading about 650 degrees from about 3 feet away!

I got back in and kept running as you are supposed to cool it off. Did not bother it a bit. Put on another 10K since including coast to coast and back last year. Next time I'm gonna have to use the 1100 degree paint!

NH Bill
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  #28  
Old 03-24-2013
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When I installed mine, I talked to Jacobs for some reason (I forget). Anyways the tech there told me that changing around the connections for the magnets will help prolong the life of the unit. Since they get very hot, changing which magnet works on setting 1 with setting 4, and reversing 2 and 3, all of them will get more even usage. Sounds like a good idea to me.
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  #29  
Old 03-01-2014
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Put the repaired retarder back in chassis today, well a couple of the young ones came in today for a little OT=$$$. Heavy rascal. A little less drama in the Rockies this year, I hope.
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