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Tires, Wheels, Brakes, Steering and Suspensions Discussion of preventative/corrective maintenance and other technical issues regarding your coach's Tires, Wheels, Brakes, Steering and Suspensions and related components.

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  #1  
Old 04-06-2013
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Default Leak in Brake Valve

I have been out working on the bird today, getting it ready for the season. I have known I had a leak in the air system so I got out my SoundStik and immediately found it at the air brake valve that is mounted on the crossmember at the front wheel area. In the first picture it is leaking at the port underneath circled in red. Is there any chance a shot of silicone will do any good or is that wishful thinking ?
I haven't got into the blue box yet to look for a part number. I could not see one while under the coach or in the picture. It does say Midland Grau, and it is an ABS type unit. I think I found a new one on Ebay (second picture) but am not sure yet. It looks identical and says it is a 12V ABS unit. I couldn't find any other Midland ABS valves anywhere except this type. For $165 I would probably just buy the new one and install it, then try to rebuild the old one as a spare.
Have any of you BMC 37 owners had to repair or replace this part or do you have a part number ?

Edit: I can answer my own question on the silicone.......wishful thinking. I looked through the blue box and prints and not much on the Midland ABS system, no part numbers
I went ahead and bought one of those valves on Ebay. Hopefully it will work.
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Last edited by Buckeye Bird; 04-06-2013 at 05:24 PM.
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Old 04-07-2013
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JB Weld?
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Old 04-07-2013
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Marvel mystery oil.
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Old 04-07-2013
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If that port is not threaded it is likely an exhaust port. Blocking it up would result in the brakes not releasing or perhaps the anti-lock not working. I really don't know the anti-lock operation here so it is a guess.. If it is leaking it is probably time to replace.
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Old 04-07-2013
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Definitely an exhaust port. Wasn't going to plug it up. I did shoot some silicone spray in it yesterday but didn't change. May try some MMO in it. Haven't looked at how it is mounted but I might try to take it out today if not too difficult. Otherwise I will wait until I get the new one (hoping it is the right one)
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Last edited by Buckeye Bird; 04-07-2013 at 08:30 AM.
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Old 04-07-2013
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take the "air in" hose off,drop some MMO in the valve,work the brakes via brake pedal or parking brake valve to work it in.
Good to go.
Gardner did this a few years ago,saving $1000..
Cold grease,lack of use makes it stick.
You may be able to warm it up with a heat gun..
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Old 04-07-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Dupree View Post
take the "air in" hose off,drop some MMO in the valve,work the brakes via brake pedal or parking brake valve to work it in.
Good to go.
Gardner did this a few years ago,saving $1000..
Cold grease,lack of use makes it stick.
You may be able to warm it up with a heat gun..
Yup, The old MMO saved my bacon. But the valve in question (spring brake relay valve) would have required removing the exhaust and several hours of experienced tech time to change. Coachworks said it was a whole day job due to the tight quarters. I kind of got the feeling no one wanted to do it.

If it was out in the open I would have changed it out. But so far, 2 years, it is holding.
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Old 04-07-2013
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Will give it a shot. (Of MMO)
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Old 04-07-2013
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Juiced it up with MMO (twice) and have been working the brakes. For a little while it actually leaked worse, and now it is back to about where it started. I am going to let it sit overnight and take it out tomorrow for a good workout.
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Old 04-07-2013
KingBiscuit KingBiscuit is offline
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LOL...when you initially said silicone, you were trying to seal it off.
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