Wanderlodge Owners Group  
BuyByeBlueBird.com
Donate

Go Back   Wanderlodge Owners Group > Mechanic's Corner > SP (Single Axle Pusher Unique Issues)

SP (Single Axle Pusher Unique Issues) If you have a unique issue with your SP model coach and it can't be answered in one of the other forums here, then this is where you can list it....List your SP parts here too.

Site Search:
Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #11  
Old 11-23-2014
Zbird's Avatar
Zbird Zbird is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: kellyton
Posts: 326
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rtpn60 View Post
Was just saying you need to find out why the fuse blows. If you cut the hot wire to the ballast and the fuse does not blow then you're good to go for LED.
Thanks Mike
Any idea where that fuse might be
__________________
Barry Zion - - Zbird
Kellyton , Alabama
'89 SP36 Silver Anniversary Edition
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 11-23-2014
MRPutz MRPutz is offline
Burnin Up in Az. :-)
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Mesa
Posts: 4,183
Default

Sorry Barry I don't know. I just called Fred Bellows (90SP36) but he wasn't sure either. Rick, any idea?

As far as LEDs I can help there, Neutek Distributor. You going to the Q rally? Neutek will be there also.
__________________
Michael & Tami Putz
78FC35SB & 83FC35SB Wanderlodge - "Putz'n Around"
'90 GL1500 Goldwing | '67 VW Rail | '82 CJ5 Jeep
eMail=Mike.Putz@cox.net | Web=http://mikeputz.com/
Solar = https://www.solarpenny.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=257

FMCA #236459, Good Sam #17270530, Vintage Birds #1509
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 11-23-2014
Rick's Avatar
Rick Rick is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Bellefonte
Posts: 13,226
Default

Not a clue on the 89 but since the lights work off the same wall switch I would think they are on the same fuse as well. part of the lights are working.
__________________
Rick Shawver
1SG Ret
2000 LX
Vise Grips
Bellefonte, AR
F127656
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 11-24-2014
nbedinger's Avatar
nbedinger nbedinger is offline
Goat rails in the sunset
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Freewheelin'
Posts: 1,814
Default

Some of the fluorescent fixtures in my SP are 12V, others require 120V. I can use the 12V fluorescents anytime. But the others need 120V present or else switching them on produces a click (relay) but no lights. The BR lights and upper fluorescent tubes in the parlor (you know, where couch is) have this 120V requirement.

The moral of this story is that rigging the SP existing fluorescent fixture wiring for LED fixtures might be a *leetle* bit different from clipping out the ballast and fusing the wire. LED replacements might be as simple as bringing 12V from the switch or relay. (Obviously I haven't converted mine yet, or I'd know these things).

Some of my 120V fixtures do that weird "bulb doesn't work" thing like Barry's. The fixtures point up at the ceiling, making it awkward to get in there and see where the problem is. I can reach in and twist the bulb a bit in its fixture, that sometimes gets the bulb working. My guess is loose wire connections at the tube-holders. I intend to drop the fixtures and look into that, but I still get two of the four tubes working, and that's usually enough
__________________
Ned Bedinger
1991 SP36
BB Body No. 93327
Full-time in 2019
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 11-24-2014
Zbird's Avatar
Zbird Zbird is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: kellyton
Posts: 326
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by nbedinger View Post
Some of the fluorescent fixtures in my SP are 12V, others require 120V. I can use the 12V fluorescents anytime. But the others need 120V present or else switching them on produces a click (relay) but no lights. The BR lights and upper fluorescent tubes in the parlor (you know, where couch is) have this 120V requirement.

The moral of this story is that rigging the SP existing fluorescent fixture wiring for LED fixtures might be a *leetle* bit different from clipping out the ballast and fusing the wire. LED replacements might be as simple as bringing 12V from the switch or relay. (Obviously I haven't converted mine yet, or I'd know these things).

Some of my 120V fixtures do that weird "bulb doesn't work" thing like Barry's. The fixtures point up at the ceiling, making it awkward to get in there and see where the problem is. I can reach in and twist the bulb a bit in its fixture, that sometimes gets the bulb working. My guess is loose wire connections at the tube-holders. I intend to drop the fixtures and look into that, but I still get two of the four tubes working, and that's usually enough
Very interesting Ned. The 2 bulbs that do light up are behind driver's seat. They fit in the fixtures behind passenger seat but do not come on. I've removed the "L" shaped valence there so I can reach the ballast. What is procedure to test if ballast is bad? The bulb over the kitchen sink is also out "54". Would like to test there also to see if it is getting juice or not. Thanks for any info
__________________
Barry Zion - - Zbird
Kellyton , Alabama
'89 SP36 Silver Anniversary Edition
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 11-24-2014
nbedinger's Avatar
nbedinger nbedinger is offline
Goat rails in the sunset
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Freewheelin'
Posts: 1,814
Default

Barry--

Look for a wiring diagram pasted onto the ballast. Using the color coded wires, you can read which wires are hot, which are ground, for voltage test.

If there's power to the fixture, a good ballast should be getting it to the bulb/pins. I guess I would take a voltmeter and see if there's voltage where the bulb connects to the fixture power wires. Volts will vary for 12V or 120V ballasts...

The household fluorescent fixtures I've wired are not real robust--there's push-in wiring terminals on the fixtures (instead of terminal screws, f'rinstance). If you're changing the ballast, you have to release the spring clamp to take out the wire and replace it. Clumsiness at this task will weaken the plastic with cracks, in turn weakening the clamping force, and the push-in connection becomes less tight with each subsequent change. Experienced installers won't degrade the fixture like that, but those of us doing for the first time, or only once in a coon's age, need to be careful with those terminals! So that's my guess as to why I get lights by fwiddling the bulbs--probably a loose connection between ballast wires and fixture.

Note that I have not yet looked at the fixtures in my coach, this description might not make any sense at all in the coach context.
__________________
Ned Bedinger
1991 SP36
BB Body No. 93327
Full-time in 2019
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 11-24-2014
atckip's Avatar
atckip atckip is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Brooks
Posts: 2,958
Default

Barry If I remember correctly the ballasts are powered by 12v from the light switch. The 12v wire was pretty easy to find. I found mine near the lights themselves. I used that point to wire in LED strips and remove the florescent fixtures completely. Overall the LEDS were much cheaper and easier to find than the single bayonet bulbs. If you have 12v switched it's got to be something in the florescent fixture itself.....ballast,wire,bulb end piece.
__________________
Kip Henry
95 WB42 S-60
88 WB40 2010/14
Brooks, GA
Kip Cindy & Cody
678-523-7920
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 11-24-2014
Zbird's Avatar
Zbird Zbird is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: kellyton
Posts: 326
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by nbedinger View Post
Barry--

Look for a wiring diagram pasted onto the ballast. Using the color coded wires, you can read which wires are hot, which are ground, for voltage test.

If there's power to the fixture, a good ballast should be getting it to the bulb/pins. I guess I would take a voltmeter and see if there's voltage where the bulb connects to the fixture power wires. Volts will vary for 12V or 120V ballasts...

The household fluorescent fixtures I've wired are not real robust--there's push-in wiring terminals on the fixtures (instead of terminal screws, f'rinstance). If you're changing the ballast, you have to release the spring clamp to take out the wire and replace it. Clumsiness at this task will weaken the plastic with cracks, in turn weakening the clamping force, and the push-in connection becomes less tight with each subsequent change. Experienced installers won't degrade the fixture like that, but those of us doing for the first time, or only once in a coon's age, need to be careful with those terminals! So that's my guess as to why I get lights by fwiddling the bulbs--probably a loose connection between ballast wires and fixture.

Note that I have not yet looked at the fixtures in my coach, this description might not make any sense at all in the coach context.
Thanks much Ned
I will work on checking ballasts next day or two. My coach has 4 fixtures above cabinets that work off one switch by the door. ( double switch ) 2 on driver side work, 2 on passenger do not. The other swtch turns on lights below cabinets. ( 3 behind driver seat and 2 on other side ) They all work. As Rick told me yesterday since each set - top and bottom work on seperate switches then each set must work on different fuses. So I know fuses are ok then the ballasts on top passenger side are most likely bad.
Now, if I change the bad ballasts and do led's there will that affect the fuse for the other side ? Or will led's and fluorescents still operate on same fuse ok?
__________________
Barry Zion - - Zbird
Kellyton , Alabama
'89 SP36 Silver Anniversary Edition
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 11-24-2014
MRPutz MRPutz is offline
Burnin Up in Az. :-)
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Mesa
Posts: 4,183
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zbird View Post
Thanks much Ned
I will work on checking ballasts next day or two. My coach has 4 fixtures above cabinets that work off one switch by the door. ( double switch ) 2 on driver side work, 2 on passenger do not. The other swtch turns on lights below cabinets. ( 3 behind driver seat and 2 on other side ) They all work. As Rick told me yesterday since each set - top and bottom work on seperate switches then each set must work on different fuses. So I know fuses are ok then the ballasts on top passenger side are most likely bad.
Now, if I change the bad ballasts and do led's there will that affect the fuse for the other side ? Or will led's and fluorescents still operate on same fuse ok?
The LEDs will work fine. The circuit should be fused to protect the wiring. If you add a smaller gauge wire then you should reduce the fuse size.
__________________
Michael & Tami Putz
78FC35SB & 83FC35SB Wanderlodge - "Putz'n Around"
'90 GL1500 Goldwing | '67 VW Rail | '82 CJ5 Jeep
eMail=Mike.Putz@cox.net | Web=http://mikeputz.com/
Solar = https://www.solarpenny.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=257

FMCA #236459, Good Sam #17270530, Vintage Birds #1509
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 11-24-2014
Dieselbird01's Avatar
Dieselbird01 Dieselbird01 is offline
John Wyatt – Administrator/Moderator
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Titusville
Posts: 3,977
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zbird View Post
I have 3 fluorescent tubes out on curb side of coach 2 are in front above cabinets and one in kitchen above cabinets. Assumed bulbs were bad so easy fix--- Wrong! New bulbs don't work. Tried bulbs from street side that do work but not on curb side . How do I check to see if ballast are shot? Seems strange that 3 on same side went bad One bulb that does work is f36t12 but actually measures 33 inches- one in kitchen opening is 57 inches. Is that bulb f54? Thanks for any help-suggestions
I think you went backwards on your conversion -- If a lamp that measures 33 inches is an F36 wouldn’t that suggest that a lamp that measures 57 inches would be an F60?
__________________
John Wyatt
Titusville, Florida
1991 40' WLWB-WTB
Body Number F095567
My Location: http://www.bbirdmaps.com/user1.cfm?user=4

1991 40' WB ...From 2008 - Present
1984 ½ PT-36 .From 2000 - 2008
1973 FC-31 .....From 1991 - 2001
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Thinlite ballast replacement? iamflagman Electrical 14 11-20-2017 11:54 AM
Fluorescent lamp ballast RRSpeeders Electrical 5 06-17-2013 03:09 PM
florescent light ballast streetrodder Parts Wanted 3 10-11-2011 10:23 AM
ballast??? Suska Electrical 4 08-24-2010 06:33 PM
Hot flourescent ballast Rick Davis Electrical 10 11-27-2009 12:01 AM

Web Search:

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:19 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions Inc.