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SP (Single Axle Pusher Unique Issues) If you have a unique issue with your SP model coach and it can't be answered in one of the other forums here, then this is where you can list it....List your SP parts here too.

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  #21  
Old 11-24-2014
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Originally Posted by Zbird View Post
Thanks much Ned
I will work on checking ballasts next day or two. My coach has 4 fixtures above cabinets that work off one switch by the door. ( double switch ) 2 on driver side work, 2 on passenger do not. The other swtch turns on lights below cabinets. ( 3 behind driver seat and 2 on other side ) They all work. As Rick told me yesterday since each set - top and bottom work on seperate switches then each set must work on different fuses. So I know fuses are ok then the ballasts on top passenger side are most likely bad.
Now, if I change the bad ballasts and do led's there will that affect the fuse for the other side ? Or will led's and fluorescents still operate on same fuse ok?
Don't forget what Ned told you... if your lights are like his and mine, the upper light fixtures have 120 volts going to them not 12 Volts.

The switch for my upper lights sends 12 volts to a relay in the front overhead component panel to pick up a relay which sends 120 volts ac to the 120 volt ac ballasts in the upper light fixtures..
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  #22  
Old 11-25-2014
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Hope everyone is already aware but for anyone who isn't yet:

'89 SP36 has one of the best collections of wiring schematics on the entire WOG downloads area. Thank Chris for the generous upload!

http://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.co...SMAN%20CHAP10/
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  #23  
Old 11-25-2014
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Originally Posted by Dieselbird01 View Post
I think you went backwards on your conversion -- If a lamp that measures 33 inches is an F36 wouldn’t that suggest that a lamp that measures 57 inches would be an F60?
Yes sir exactly. I can blame it on old age setting in
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'89 SP36 Silver Anniversary Edition
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  #24  
Old 11-25-2014
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Originally Posted by Dieselbird01 View Post
Don't forget what Ned told you... if your lights are like his and mine, the upper light fixtures have 120 volts going to them not 12 Volts.

The switch for my upper lights sends 12 volts to a relay in the front overhead component panel to pick up a relay which sends 120 volts ac to the 120 volt ac ballasts in the upper light fixtures..
Thanks for the heads up John but as far as actually fixing- changing to led what does that require?
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  #25  
Old 11-25-2014
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Originally Posted by Zbird View Post
as far as actually fixing- changing to led what does that require?
http://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.co...RH%20FRONT.pdf

Do you have a 120V breaker for fluorescent lights?

Also, are you going to keep the 120V lights AND add LEDs?

If you're keeping the fluorescent lights, you probably want a separate 12V circuit with switch for the LEDs. A spare 12V circuit in one of the near-by load centers could provide the power source.

If you drop the fluorescent fixtures and remove the back/top/side liner panels of the overhead compartments, you can probably trace the fixture wires back to the ballast and then to the 12/120V relay. It would be odd to find any fuses in those wires. The diagram shows just one 12V fuse, in RH front overhead load center. You'd have to trace the wires from fixture back to load center to see if any additional fuses had been added. The good news is that if you trace out those wires, you'll find the cause of those lights not working
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  #26  
Old 11-25-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dieselbird01 View Post
Don't forget what Ned told you... if your lights are like his and mine, the upper light fixtures have 120 volts going to them not 12 Volts.

The switch for my upper lights sends 12 volts to a relay in the front overhead component panel to pick up a relay which sends 120 volts ac to the 120 volt ac ballasts in the upper light fixtures..
If you have existing 120 volt lighting you can simply add a transformer and a full wave bridge and then run 12v lighting safely. The total cost is under $20 and all the parts are at Radio Shack. I've done this for already for people on the WOG, one was even a boat. BTW, Neutek also sells LEDs that have no polarity and run on either AC or DC from 6v-32v.
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  #27  
Old 11-25-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zbird View Post
Thanks for the heads up John but as far as actually fixing- changing to led what does that require?
Hi Barry,

It looks like I’m in the minority but my choice would be to find out what’s wrong with the existing 120 volt light fixtures and repair them since I like the fluorescent lights when we’re on shore power or running the generator.

As Ned and Mike said you have several options for adding leds.

A word of caution, if your coach is wired like mine, turning off the fluorescent light circuit breaker in the main power panel won’t keep 120 volt from going to the fluorescent light circuit if the inverter is on.
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  #28  
Old 11-25-2014
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http://store.marinebeam.com/120vac-led-tubes.html
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  #29  
Old 11-26-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nbedinger View Post
http://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.co...RH%20FRONT.pdf

Do you have a 120V breaker for fluorescent lights?

Also, are you going to keep the 120V lights AND add LEDs?

If you're keeping the fluorescent lights, you probably want a separate 12V circuit with switch for the LEDs. A spare 12V circuit in one of the near-by load centers could provide the power source.

If you drop the fluorescent fixtures and remove the back/top/side liner panels of the overhead compartments, you can probably trace the fixture wires back to the ballast and then to the 12/120V relay. It would be odd to find any fuses in those wires. The diagram shows just one 12V fuse, in RH front overhead load center. You'd have to trace the wires from fixture back to load center to see if any additional fuses had been added. The good news is that if you trace out those wires, you'll find the cause of those lights not working
Thanks for the diagram link Ned. Actually, I would like to keep things original. So finding out if ballasts are bad I will replace with same.
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  #30  
Old 11-26-2014
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Originally Posted by rtpn60 View Post
If you have existing 120 volt lighting you can simply add a transformer and a full wave bridge and then run 12v lighting safely. The total cost is under $20 and all the parts are at Radio Shack. I've done this for already for people on the WOG, one was even a boat. BTW, Neutek also sells LEDs that have no polarity and run on either AC or DC from 6v-32v.
Thanks Mike
After this weekend I will have some free time to spend taking things apart to see which direction to go.
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