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FC (Forward Control Unique Issues) If you have a unique issue with your FC model coach and it can't be answered in one of the other forums here, then this is where you can list it.......List your FC Parts here too.

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  #1  
Old 03-03-2010
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MRPutz MRPutz is offline
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Exactly.. I found mine searching for older school busses being phased out. I ended up buying the whole bus (82FC33) to get the parts I needed. The Thelma unit is very heavy and requires mounts that are not present on my existing 78FC35. I'm also seeing some extra support brackets from frame rail to frame rail I'll have to add as well.

Fred and I just dropped the unit last weekend, here's some pics. Looks like we'll be drilling new support holes for the brackets and removing some drive shafts as they are different lengths as well.
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  #2  
Old 09-28-2010
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MRPutz MRPutz is offline
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Default Drive-line Retarder now mounted!

Ok.. I'm excited.. just finished mounting a drive-line retarder I removed from an '82 Bluebird parts bus onto my '78 Wanderlodge. It was designed to go on the last driveshaft but due to holding tanks, etc.. I had to move it up one shaft. Worried about angles I installed a 2" shim to lower the final carriage bearing and then had Allison run numbers to insure the angles were acceptable for the u-joints.

Tranny = .2 dn
1st Shaft = 57” @.8 dn
2nd Shaft = 26” @.9 dn
Retarder = 19" @ 3.3 dn
3rd Shaft = 22-1/2” @2.5 dn
4th Shaft = 63-3/8” @4.5 dn
Rear-End = .7 up

Results from Allison;

Front test from transmission to retarder Acceleration radian/sec2

Effective angle – Limit – Actual - Result

Torsional 2.47 – 500 – 160 - OK
Inertial drive .84 – 1000 – 19 - OK
Inertial coast 3.39 – 1000 – 301 - Ok

Rear test from retarder to rear axle. Acceleration radian/sec2

Effective angle Limit Actual Result
Torsional 3.33 – 500 – 290 - OK
Inertial drive 1.65 – 1000 – 71 - OK
Inertial coast 4.99 – 1000 – 652 - OK

So if all goes well I will make it to the Balloon Fest!
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Michael & Tami Putz
78FC35SB & 83FC35SB Wanderlodge - "Putz'n Around"
'90 GL1500 Goldwing | '67 VW Rail | '82 CJ5 Jeep
eMail=Mike.Putz@cox.net | Web=http://mikeputz.com/
Solar = https://www.solarpenny.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=257

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  #3  
Old 09-28-2010
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NH Bill NH Bill is offline
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Very cool Michael!

Way above my skill set!

Congratulations, not an easy mod.

Your gonna love it. I use the EM retarder for a vast majority of my braking.

NH Bill
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  #4  
Old 09-28-2010
mynavion mynavion is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rtpn60 View Post
Ok.. I'm excited.. just finished mounting a drive-line retarder I removed from an '82 Bluebird parts bus onto my '78 Wanderlodge. It was designed to go on the last driveshaft but due to holding tanks, etc.. I had to move it up one shaft. Worried about angles I installed a 2" shim to lower the final carriage bearing and then had Allison run numbers to insure the angles were acceptable for the u-joints.

Tranny = .2 dn
1st Shaft = 57” @.8 dn
2nd Shaft = 26” @.9 dn
Retarder = 19" @ 3.3 dn
3rd Shaft = 22-1/2” @2.5 dn
4th Shaft = 63-3/8” @4.5 dn
Rear-End = .7 up

Results from Allison;

Front test from transmission to retarder Acceleration radian/sec2

Effective angle – Limit – Actual - Result

Torsional 2.47 – 500 – 160 - OK
Inertial drive .84 – 1000 – 19 - OK
Inertial coast 3.39 – 1000 – 301 - Ok

Rear test from retarder to rear axle. Acceleration radian/sec2

Effective angle Limit Actual Result
Torsional 3.33 – 500 – 290 - OK
Inertial drive 1.65 – 1000 – 71 - OK
Inertial coast 4.99 – 1000 – 652 - OK

So if all goes well I will make it to the Balloon Fest!

I hear you are going to be doing these installs at RATS on a first come basis?

No seriously, way to go. That's way more than I could tackle.....
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  #5  
Old 09-28-2010
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The Folks on this Forum are just amazing.
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  #6  
Old 09-28-2010
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Michael,
When you are back on the road and experience a loss of power, just reach down and disengage the retarder, it works for me
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  #7  
Old 09-28-2010
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Tough job to take on! Way to go!!

I'm glad that there are others out there that have to work on the ground like I do. I'll bet you're a little sore and bruised.

Like the others have said, you'll love that retarder and find yourself using it for most of your braking.
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  #8  
Old 09-28-2010
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hee hee hee.. yea.. I'm much more sore than I use to get.

A little more sore and took twice as long as I thought it would. I did install an LED toggle on the dash to engage the retarter, hopefull that will help me to NOT lower my gas milliage on the flats!
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Michael & Tami Putz
78FC35SB & 83FC35SB Wanderlodge - "Putz'n Around"
'90 GL1500 Goldwing | '67 VW Rail | '82 CJ5 Jeep
eMail=Mike.Putz@cox.net | Web=http://mikeputz.com/
Solar = https://www.solarpenny.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=257

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  #9  
Old 09-29-2010
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NH Bill NH Bill is offline
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While on the subject of the EM retarder, one limitation of the factory installation is that it can be left on and you can drive against it. Bad idea.

Shane and I were talking about this last weekend an discussed modifying the circuit with a relay to turn it off on acceleration to prevent this from happening. Not sure how this would work because the four position handle would have to be returned to off.

NH Bill
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  #10  
Old 09-29-2010
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Bill, That would not be too difficult. There is one power wire that runs to the 4 position handle. By running that feed through a normally closed push button switch, such as a Ford Brake Light, and fabing a bracket at the fuel pump or accelerator pedal you wouldn't need a relay.
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