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  #11  
Old 10-02-2011
Chuck Chuck is offline
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Default Up dates on Chuck's 79

Work has been slow on the Bird. The ceiling is complete and the new 12 volt electrical is in.
The PC hardener worked great, see photos, it continued to get stronger over a week or so.
I chose to replace the ceiling in the Galley with new material. It is a thick plastic with pebble texture. The original had a cutout for a light in the center. I also wanted a surface that is brighter and easer to clean.
I also added lights above the cabinet doors. I have been using a CCFL that is used in computer cases. I get them from Fry's Electronics for less then 8$ per unit. They wire in to the 12 volt system. I also use them to replace the original lights. In the 2+ years that I have used them no failures.
The last photo is a mock up of a 32" flat screen TV I am thinking of mounting.
The last I took from our kitchen window.
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  #12  
Old 03-20-2012
DW SD DW SD is offline
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I've been repairing my ceiling with a different method. I'm not sure it works as well as yours did. I did not remove the panels. One was quite badly warped resulting from a leak.

First, I built the form seen in the pictures. It is about the width of one half panel. I wet the back of the panel with a combination of degreaser and water from a spray bottle - wanting to make sure it penetrates the masonite board. From there I used a combination of gorilla glue and great stuff spray foam to glue the panels back up. If I found low / thin spots in the ceiling insulation about the panels, I'd use the great stuff spray foam.

I'd press the form against the ceiling using a 2x4 and a floor jack. Each time I set the form, I let the glue dry for 8 hours or so.

In the end, my panels are now solidly affixed and with an improved aesthetic.

Doug
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  #13  
Old 05-18-2012
1derer 1derer is offline
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Default Doug's "simplified method"

Doug -
Two ceiling panels flanking a vent in my '75 have a slight sag, I assume from past water infiltration. Since I presume water did it, I also presumed water would undo itif I sprayed water onto the top of the panels and braced them for the proper curve. But this method didn't make much difference. My method was to spray the foam insulation above the panels so that it would drip onto the backside of the panels. I also dragged a wet sponge across accessible areas of the backside (accessible due to removing the vent's inside side) and can only assume this activity also dampened the backsides. None of this had much effect.

So now I'd like to know what inspired you to dampen with degreaser as well. - Also, from the vantage point of the vent opening I can see the panels backsides do not contact the insuration above them. (There's a good inch or so gap between them.) So regardless what stuff you used to "glue the panels back up", how did you accomplish this (unless you used a ton of spraying)? If you essentially "filled" this gap, it seems you ran the risk of the spray making whatever degree of sag you didn't brace up permanent. Also, filling the gap seems that it would preclude you from running wires of whatever you might be inspired to do in the gap sometime down the road.
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  #14  
Old 09-19-2020
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Developed a slight sag in ceiling panel. Parked bus in the elements after years of under cover storage. Replaced vent.
Used steam machine to add water evenly. Braced with paneling/bottle jack.



Tried to rotate pics. Sorry
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  #15  
Old 09-19-2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shaaksma View Post
Developed a slight sag in ceiling panel. Parked bus in the elements after years of under cover storage. Replaced vent.
Used steam machine to add water evenly. Braced with paneling/bottle jack.
Are you happy with how it turned out? I need to do a couple sections and I've been avoiding it.
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  #16  
Old 09-19-2020
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shaaksma shaaksma is offline
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Are you happy with how it turned out? I need to do a couple sections and I've been avoiding it.
Yes. If not right the first time, do it again. I did not saturate it and waited for a dry week. Try this method before going to extreme measures.
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  #17  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
DW SD DW SD is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shaaksma View Post
Yes. If not right the first time, do it again. I did not saturate it and waited for a dry week. Try this method before going to extreme measures.
I built a curved 3D plug to match the roof panel and arch. but didn't steam the panels - just sprayed with a water spray bottle. I then glued the panels with gorilla glue back in place. It worked fairly well.

Combining both methods might work better.

I used a 4 x 4 with a floor jack to support the plug. It was made of 3/4" plywood covered with 1/4". Extremely stiff.
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  #18  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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shaaksma shaaksma is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DW SD View Post
I built a curved 3D plug to match the roof panel and arch. but didn't steam the panels - just sprayed with a water spray bottle. I then glued the panels with gorilla glue back in place. It worked fairly well.

Combining both methods might work better.

I used a 4 x 4 with a floor jack to support the plug. It was made of 3/4" plywood covered with 1/4". Extremely stiff.
A contoured plug would be great. do you have a loaner program?
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  #19  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
DW SD DW SD is offline
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A contoured plug would be great. do you have a loaner program?
Sadly... I don’t. It is big. And heavy. I threw it away after I sold my PT.

Sorry
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