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FC (Forward Control Unique Issues) If you have a unique issue with your FC model coach and it can't be answered in one of the other forums here, then this is where you can list it.......List your FC Parts here too.

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  #31  
Old 1 Week Ago
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Fuse panel under dash is tucked up next to column, a real bear to see. You need to crawl over dog house arch your back and lay upside down, fish your head between column and dog house, look up with a mirror, then you will find the fuse's only partially kidding. Has standard tube fuses. If you loosen the harness, you can move it out of away and find it from the front panel.
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  #32  
Old 1 Week Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcs707 View Post
Thanks Randy. I think I'll save this 'set the bus on fire' pro tip as a last resort.
if you had one of those heat seaker guns,you may be able to find the other end of the wire,it will be hot where ever its grounded.
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  #33  
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Hey Clint--

Just left and down from the top term strip is another red/black wire. It is fastened to the bulkhead along with a couple of more wires. Could you test that post to see if it is powered or grounded? It'd be good to know what red/black is being used for.

Thanks, your new diagram clears up that weird-looking strip#2 connection to the problem red/black. I'm really curious how the problem will resolve.
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  #34  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Virtue22 View Post
Here is a pic of the driver side wiper swing door on my '77, in case you haven't had a chance to open yours up Clint.

Notice how clean and organized everything is, very much like your illustration above

Thanks Matt ... mine unfortunately doesn't look like this. I wish it did.

Where does the main power feed from the battery terminate? Is there a bus bar or isolated stud somewhere?
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  #35  
Old 1 Week Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Dupree View Post

Where the heck is Putz,he has an older FC,
I'm Here! Had a busy weekend celebrating my B-day! Now Doing my taxes!

All good advice here. Some things I would try, currently my bus is down with all power & batteries removed so not sure if I can help. If needed I could try to tone that wire out on my bus tomorrow after work and see if I can follow it?

For now please answer these questions;
  • When you disconnect the wire does anything quit working?
  • Have you located the clicking circuit breaker?
  • Do you have the original alternator with remote regulator in the battery compartment?

Suggested troubleshooting and provide feedback until I can research more;
  • Remove the fuse from the power stereo amplifier - any changes? (keep it removed)
  • Remove the DC power lead from the battery on your alternator - if a diode failed it could draw power (keep it removed)
  • while the issue is occurring feel all the wires, breakers, relays, etc.. upper and lower wire nests by steering wheel, feel for heat on any other items tied into this circuit
  • while the issue is occurring feel the ignition switch for heat, maybe it's failed?

I'll look into this more tomorrow after work once I see your responses.
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  #36  
Old 1 Week Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcs707 View Post
Thanks Matt ... mine unfortunately doesn't look like this. I wish it did.

Where does the main power feed from the battery terminate? Is there a bus bar or isolated stud somewhere?
If you follow your large battery lead from the battery compartment you'll find it goes to the inside rail of your frame. There should be an isolated stud there with several wires connected to it. Some wires that reside there;

- 2 wires going back to your battery boilers compartment
- wire from batteries
- wire to starter
- wire to dash

So should be 5 wires on that stud. It's good to clean this up once in a while to solve low/no voltage issues. Be careful, lots of potential sparks here.
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  #37  
Old 1 Week Ago
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Frankly with the all the documents, organization, wire management, labels, and thought Wanderlodge put into these buses I'm not sure why you're having an issue finding the problem?

Oh sorry, they started all that AFTER 70's vintage rats nest wiring installations.
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78FC35SB Wanderlodge - "Putz'n Around"
'90 GL1500 Goldwing | '67 VW Rail | '82 CJ5 Jeep
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  #38  
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Special note, Clints '77 was a redashed bus, updated in the early eighties, bus has some unique wiring as a result.
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1997 WB43
1977 FC31 RB Sold

"The tallest guy with the shortest bus acquired a "BIG BUSTA"

<bustadesign@hotmail.com>
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  #39  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MRPutz View Post
I'm Here! Had a busy weekend celebrating my B-day! Now Doing my taxes!

All good advice here. Some things I would try, currently my bus is down with all power & batteries removed so not sure if I can help. If needed I could try to tone that wire out on my bus tomorrow after work and see if I can follow it?

For now please answer these questions;
  • When you disconnect the wire does anything quit working?
  • Have you located the clicking circuit breaker?
  • Do you have the original alternator with remote regulator in the battery compartment?

Suggested troubleshooting and provide feedback until I can research more;
  • Remove the fuse from the power stereo amplifier - any changes? (keep it removed)
  • Remove the DC power lead from the battery on your alternator - if a diode failed it could draw power (keep it removed)
  • while the issue is occurring feel all the wires, breakers, relays, etc.. upper and lower wire nests by steering wheel, feel for heat on any other items tied into this circuit
  • while the issue is occurring feel the ignition switch for heat, maybe it's failed?


I'll look into this more tomorrow after work once I see your responses.
Mike - thanks for the suggestions.


Wire is currently disconnected and nothing has quit working that is obvious - even when underway.

When the shorted wire is connected NO circuit breaker is clicking (that I can tell), the air-horn solenoid is clicking due to the main power to the overhead being reset by the current draw from the shorted wire. Thus, I'm assuming there is another auto-resetting breaker further downstream - towards the battery.

No remote regulator

Have removed the fuse from remote amp, no change

The shorted wire becomes very hot, but have not extensively looked for other components or wires that are heated up.
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-----------------------------------------
Clint & Tammy Summers
Atlanta GA
1995 WB 42 "The Magic Carpet"
1977 FC 31 RB "BUSTA BUS"
MeWe : https://mewe.com/i/clintsummers1
Semper Fi
-----------------------------------------
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  #40  
Old 4 Days Ago
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Sorry for the delay.
Here's what I've found so far. I took my TV Down and removed the overhead board. My wiring appears to be identical to yours.

I ohm'd out that wire to ground and got 240 ohms. so if 12v was applied it would draw about 50 mA. I'm assuming everything is off so it appears to be a coil on a relay something similar? I tried to follow it and it goes into the wire bundle above the drivers side window, down the chase there. So comes out behind the battery bank.

I could not get my cheap wire toner to work very well but will try again tomorrow night. I also unplugged the wire and put +12v to it using a battery charger. I was unable to find anything that was "on" or lit.

While I keep searching try this. with the wire unplugged see if the gen start works, your gray/black/fresh tank indicators, entry step, try your levelers.

I'll see if I can get this darn toner to work better, it's a cheap one..
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'90 GL1500 Goldwing | '67 VW Rail | '82 CJ5 Jeep
eMail=Mike.Putz@cox.net | Web=http://mikeputz.com/
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FMCA #236459, Good Sam #17270530, Vintage Birds #1509
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