Wanderlodge Owners Group  
BuyByeBlueBird.com
WOG Gear

Go Back   Wanderlodge Owners Group > Mechanic's Corner > 'Bird Projects & Modifications

'Bird Projects & Modifications Share with us that latest project or modification that you have done to your 'Bird right here.

Site Search:
Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #381  
Old 03-12-2018
oldmansax oldmansax is offline
Black Sheep Division
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: delaware
Posts: 958
Default

I think I will just hard copy this whole thread so I can have the part #s handy for mine..... LOL!

TOM
__________________
1985 PT36
Reply With Quote
  #382  
Old 03-13-2018
badandy badandy is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: delavan
Posts: 905
Default

Well my little generator fan experiment is over. I'm done farting around with it. I have a nice selection of very good electric fans, and even with about 1500 cfm worth of fans (with a shroud, but not a great one) sucking on that radiator it just barely keeps it under 205F with about a 11kw load. Tonight it was 27F, so it will not keep up in good weather. I also cannot get a large enough single fan in there because the water pump pulley is in the way. The original roaring mechanical fan is going back in. But I got the leaks fixed while it was all apart and the new air cleaner installed, so all is not lost. I have bigger fish to fry.
__________________
Reply With Quote
  #383  
Old 03-13-2018
DW SD DW SD is online now
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Encinitas
Posts: 1,119
Default

Bummer...
My shroud is very similar. Probably more efficient with more gap between the radiator fins and fan, but no room to the water pump pulley. In very hot weather (say 90F+) my generator temp moves beyond 160F, which means I'm maxing out thermal transfer capacity of the cooling system.
As you know, heat transfer is driven by temp differential. So adding 50F or 60F to ambient seems like it'd create problems.

I guess now the "poor condition" label on your radiator makes sense. :-(

Look forward to your bigger fish projects!
Doug
__________________
Doug W.
Encinitas CA
2004 M380
Reply With Quote
  #384  
Old 03-14-2018
badandy badandy is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: delavan
Posts: 905
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by DW SD View Post
Bummer...
My shroud is very similar. Probably more efficient with more gap between the radiator fins and fan, but no room to the water pump pulley. In very hot weather (say 90F+) my generator temp moves beyond 160F, which means I'm maxing out thermal transfer capacity of the cooling system.
As you know, heat transfer is driven by temp differential. So adding 50F or 60F to ambient seems like it'd create problems.

I guess now the "poor condition" label on your radiator makes sense. :-(

Look forward to your bigger fish projects!
Doug
The radiator is fine, good actually. I checked it over as well as I could and the fins are even straight. It might have been rebuilt along the way, but it's the same configuration as all the other ones I've found pictures of. The sticker is painted over like the rest of it. Weird!

On your setup, how hard have you pushed it? Got any photos of the fan/shroud setup? I can keep it cooled fine at half load...
__________________
Reply With Quote
  #385  
Old 03-14-2018
DW SD DW SD is online now
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Encinitas
Posts: 1,119
Default

Andy,
I'll take a picture late next week; I'm on vacation through next WED. The shroud and fan is extremely similar and with very limited room against the radiator fins; maybe it stands off, but is sealed with 1/4" of room between the fan and the water pump pulley. I think I used a 3M stick-on bulb seal on the radiator side; can't 100% remember. Looks like yours is 3/16" thick where mine is 1/8" aluminum.

For a moment, I thought the shroud was exactly the same as mine, but mine is the same footprint as the radiator, where yours is the same as the u-channel box.

I've run 3 AC units (2 cruise airs) in 90F or so. It creeps up to 180F or 190F but stays there. (my thermostat is a 160F).

If I don't fill full and use an overflow to trap the coolant when hot, it doesn't cool so well. It is critical it stays 100% full.
I use a 1 liter coke bottle with a thread on cap and the overflow line dropped in through a hole drilled through the cap.

Hope that helps a bit.
__________________
Doug W.
Encinitas CA
2004 M380
Reply With Quote
  #386  
Old 03-14-2018
badandy badandy is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: delavan
Posts: 905
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by DW SD View Post
Andy,
I'll take a picture late next week; I'm on vacation through next WED. The shroud and fan is extremely similar and with very limited room against the radiator fins; maybe it stands off, but is sealed with 1/4" of room between the fan and the water pump pulley. I think I used a 3M stick-on bulb seal on the radiator side; can't 100% remember. Looks like yours is 3/16" thick where mine is 1/8" aluminum.

For a moment, I thought the shroud was exactly the same as mine, but mine is the same footprint as the radiator, where yours is the same as the u-channel box.

I've run 3 AC units (2 cruise airs) in 90F or so. It creeps up to 180F or 190F but stays there. (my thermostat is a 160F).

If I don't fill full and use an overflow to trap the coolant when hot, it doesn't cool so well. It is critical it stays 100% full.
I use a 1 liter coke bottle with a thread on cap and the overflow line dropped in through a hole drilled through the cap.

Hope that helps a bit.
That sounds the same as mine, actually it sounds like it acts the same, too. My "shroud" is a 1/8" al plate fastened to the uprights, but sealed to the radiator. The fan is also sealed to the shroud. I was able to keep mine topped off during testing, but the cap was off the whole time so I could have my temp probe in there to log.

With all 3 a/c's on you're pulling 5-6kw. When I had a 6kw load on, with a 180 thermostat and one fan it would run at 181 or 182 (as measured in the radiator coolant with a probe), so it would keep up fine. If I turned the fan off and let it creep up to 200 and then turn the fan on it would eventually come down to about 185. It had no chance of keeping it cool with everything maxed out, which I am able to do by charging the lith's and turning more stuff on. And that's with 27F ambient air to cool with.

I was able to test the high temp shutdown - 225 right on the head.
__________________
Reply With Quote
  #387  
Old 03-14-2018
DW SD DW SD is online now
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Encinitas
Posts: 1,119
Default

Yeah, I don't have a good way to assess load; had thought the ACs probably drew 2500W, but no real idea. I might probably have 80amps x 14 volts of charger happening, too, but that's only another 1400 watts if 80% efficient.

You could always go with one of those waterless coolant replacements, which boil at a much higher temp and adjust the high temp shutoff (or just bank on the thermal efficiency of the waterless coolant)?
I see it advertised in hot rod magazine, I think.
https://www.evanscoolant.com/
Doug
__________________
Doug W.
Encinitas CA
2004 M380
Reply With Quote
  #388  
Old 03-17-2018
badandy badandy is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: delavan
Posts: 905
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by DW SD View Post
Yeah, I don't have a good way to assess load; had thought the ACs probably drew 2500W, but no real idea. I might probably have 80amps x 14 volts of charger happening, too, but that's only another 1400 watts if 80% efficient.

You could always go with one of those waterless coolant replacements, which boil at a much higher temp and adjust the high temp shutoff (or just bank on the thermal efficiency of the waterless coolant)?
I see it advertised in hot rod magazine, I think.
https://www.evanscoolant.com/
Doug
I put the fixed fan back on today. I ran the gen a ton last year both on the road and stationary and the temp gauge never moved once. Not even a hint. We boondocked in 90+ weather on our way to/fro Colorado over a week and had no issues running all 3 A/C's the whole trip. I tested the whole lithium charging setup and running A/C's at the same time, which was about 12kw for the record, and the temp never moved a needle's width on the guage on those 90 degree days we had late last summer.

The fixed fan is superior in every way except the noise. But it turns out that half of my fan noise was that idler pulley bearing! I just couldn't tell what it was before! Now I wouldn't call it quiet, but it is actually way less painful to listen to. The new injectors helped, too. I'm going to add another resonator to the exhaust and build a little resonator tube for the air intake to the air cleaner and reinsulate and call it done. All of the insulation around the generator "cave" is still in tact. I am going to stick some insulation on the gen tray itself and see if that helps at all.

Oh I also got the Z-Wave control working. I've got a First Alert smoke and CO detector in the bus now and it will send an alert to a list of phones via SMS and another app via the WanderPi. I am also setting up some Z-Wave paddle switches to replace the switches in the "closets" at the head of the bed for the water heater, charger, engine heater, etc. I decided to do Zwave for some things because it's wireless and painless to set up. It also doesn't rely on WIFI 2.4/5Ghz, it's 908.43Mhz, which should also be way more reliable. I will add a couple of other sensors to this little network and call it good. This might all seem like overkill, but now I can schedule the block heater to start up before we wake up to leave, etc.
__________________
Reply With Quote
  #389  
Old 03-22-2018
badandy badandy is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: delavan
Posts: 905
Default

My fuel level sender has been reading what I thought was about 1/4 tank low, confirmed by much overflow the last time I filled the tank

I got it pulled out last night and the float is goofy on it so I ordered a new one from Wema. The tank is about 22" deep so I got a 21" long sender. It's 33-250ish ohms, so it's 33 when full and 250 when empty. Check out the pix.

http://wemausa.3dcartstores.com/SSSS...60-in_p_9.html is the new unit. DW_SD says it works great, so I'll blame him if it doesn't work!

Click image for larger version

Name:	level1.jpg
Views:	56
Size:	205.6 KB
ID:	54516

Click image for larger version

Name:	level2.jpg
Views:	53
Size:	204.0 KB
ID:	54517
__________________
Reply With Quote
  #390  
Old 03-22-2018
oldmansax oldmansax is offline
Black Sheep Division
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: delaware
Posts: 958
Default

Andy, I just did mine and it is 90 ohms full and 0 ohms empty. I don't know if they changed them between '83 and '85 but if you short the sender wire at the tank to ground and the gauge reads empty, yours is probably like mine. I bought a Stewart-Warner from my local supply house and it works like a charm! I can get the number tomorrow if you need it.

TOM
__________________
1985 PT36
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
1983 PT35 In Florida 30k Gladiator70 Craigs List, Ebay, Coaches and other Finds 0 04-21-2013 02:02 AM
ebay 84 pt35?? wtwtw Craigs List, Ebay, Coaches and other Finds 13 11-09-2012 09:44 AM
85 PT35 on e-bay RDBustos Craigs List, Ebay, Coaches and other Finds 23 10-29-2010 11:35 PM
PT35(36) gcyeaw Coaches For Sale by WOG Members 30 08-24-2010 06:08 PM
83 PT35 in Nebraska markusfmeyer Craigs List, Ebay, Coaches and other Finds 0 01-18-2010 12:09 PM

Web Search:

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:18 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions Inc.