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Caterpillar 3208 Solutions This sub-forum is hosted by Mike Hohnstein who has been at this kind of thing for 50+ years now, guess I'm addicted. The saga has been all about progressively larger shop space since then. Honestly, never wanted to get into the CAT 3208's that were originally considered to be a throwaway engine but that's all that works in a FC in my world. Same thing with my Ford toter, that came with a NA, too much effort to hang in a 6, so been at it with the CAT V-8 for 20 years now. In reality you can get excellent life out of a CAT 3208 if it's built correctly. Post your questions about the CAT 3208 engines here and Mike will try to help you out.

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  #31  
Old 08-08-2016
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Ejection seat instead?
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  #32  
Old 08-09-2016
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Default Apparent Root Cause

When the runaway happened I certainly had no idea that it would do what it did. I'm sincerely thankful to have had the patience to wait for the CO2 to show up in the mail before attempting the start. I left the air filter assembly off the manifold to facilitate the CO2 getting into the engine. Randy: Extinguisher is the standard Amerex gas bottle type that can spray out a cloud of snow if used at high rates. No liquid. It really saved the day. Don't leave home without one.

Took apart the top plate to find the racks are frozen at full throttle. Did some internet searches to find that frozen racks are quite common on the 3208 injection pump. Fortunately, because the shut off solenoid spring forces the rack in the shut position, during the down time, the majority of operations experience deals with engines unable to start. There are a few events, however, similar to mine. It all seems to depend upon what position the racks are in when the engine is shut down. Recovering from this situation is not good - rebuilding injection pump is a favorite. However, some people have had luck by saturation with PB blaster, or Spray down with brake/carb fluid followed by a long soak in ATF

Some guess work: Apparent Root Cause: The new 15 percent fuel degrades quickly and deposits a glue like deposit that smells like paint thinner onto all fuel components including tight fitting injection parts. When the engine cools down the deposit hardens and freezes the rack in whatever position it rests. I first noticed the deposit when my Facet pump no longer increased fuel delivery pressure. The inlet strainer was clogged with this deposit that only acetone would dissolve. My fuel was approximately 1 year in the tank. The rack froze with no previous warning. Could happen at any time to any owner. If this were a nuclear issue it would be listed as a significant safety hazard.

I've run this coach for several years and was always proud at how it started no matter what the weather. 1/2 a crank and she'd be up and running. Then with no warning bang this happens. If I ever get through this I will be using small fuel tanks i.e. 10 gallons or less and dumping all fuel over 4 months old. I already have such a setup installed. A 10 gallon poly tank.
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Last edited by Rich Johnson; 08-09-2016 at 12:52 PM.
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  #33  
Old 08-09-2016
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You should buy a lottery ticket. I wouldn't say rusty racks are a common problem, unless of course the owners are negligent is treating their fuel supply.
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  #34  
Old 08-09-2016
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This is a previous thread, how did the choke cable work out??

http://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.co...173#post206173
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  #35  
Old 08-09-2016
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Pictures were promised when finished. No pictures soooooo. Perhaps this is where the contamination occurred in the pump.
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  #36  
Old 08-09-2016
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I had a 3208 pump early this year with a stuck rack,in the off position.
I took the pump to a pump shop and had it repaired,it needed all 8 plungers,they were stuck and i did not take a chance on using them over,even if i got them freed up.

Even though it was a flipper coach,i spent the money and got it done right.
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  #37  
Old 08-09-2016
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Default response to #34 Manual solenoid

#34: you hit the nail on the head - bravo. The very reason why my rack was stuck open instead of closed. I tested my manual shut off solenoid system for quite a while with great results. Push on the control cable and the engine would stop. But, I developed the habit of pulling the control cable back to the run position after shut down in anticipation of the next start. The so called governor mystery spring I wrote about made the rack go to the full throttle position when there was no solenoid spring pressure keeping the rack shut.

I don't believe those with a normally operating solenoid need worry about the rack at full throttle problem, I've experienced. But any malfunction with the solenoid could be real bad news. Also those with governors without the mystery spring may not have to worry either. This class of conditions, that of good solenoids will likely result in stuck racks in the fuel off position, like Randy mentioned. This is inconvenient, but not dangerous like my situation.

So it appears that field experience has resulted in a huge new safety rule : keep the racks in the shut down position whenever securing the engine.

I did some internet searches on diesel fuel degradation just now and the results were very discouraging. The low sulfur stuff does deteriorate much faster than old fuels. In fact so fast that the fuel may be substandard by the time it gets delivered to the filling station. Looks like 1 month is going to be my dump time, perhaps 4 months with diesel Stabil added. More bad news: poly tanks are not good, needs to be metal, or nylon.
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Last edited by Rich Johnson; 08-09-2016 at 06:39 PM.
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  #38  
Old 08-09-2016
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So tell us Johnson, what are you going to do now? Please share your plan of action? Your operational anomoly has been discussed and the proper process has been suggested, what now?
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  #39  
Old 08-10-2016
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Default reply to #38

#38: Presently in thinking mode. Will continue trying to free the injection rack with PB Blaster, then if that fails move on to brake/carb cleaner plus ATF soak. Also heard of acetone bath method. If these fail, I'll be forced into an injection pump rebuild job. Hope the WOG has experience to share in that area. Dreading the thought of pulling the pressed on pump gear.

Lessons learned: 1) Modern fuel goes bad fast. 2) Keep shut down solenoid in shut rack position after securing the engine 3) Add Diesel fuel stabilizer to fuel. 4) Dump fuel every 3 months 5) Set up a small quantity aux fuel tank system that can be monitored and dumped without dumping large quantities of fuel. 6) empty main fuel tank during period of winter storage 7) Keep a CO2 or Halogen based fire extinguisher at hand at all times at the ready. 8) Keep the safety warning of one of our concerned replies well on the front burner 9) monitor the Facet aux lift pump strainer regularly for varnish, gook deposits

Any more ideas appreciated.
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  #40  
Old 08-10-2016
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