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Engine Discussion of preventative/corrective maintenance and other technical issues regarding your coach's engine.

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  #1  
Old 02-24-2008
Bill Pape's Avatar
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Default Cat 3208 Injection Pump Replacement

Found this web site http://www.mwfi.com/

http://www.mwfi.com/Cat_Tech_art/fuelPumpAssembely.htm

Midwest Diesel Store sell stuff, And there are a few tech articles,
on this site. The next link has a simple step by step procedure of
how to replace an injection pump.
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  #2  
Old 02-24-2008
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great link but do you have the tools??????

i dont remember but think that the tool in the pump is a 5/16 drill bit

and the little press to get the gear off is a special tool unless you make 1
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  #3  
Old 02-25-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwoody View Post
great link but do you have the tools??????

i dont remember but think that the tool in the pump is a 5/16 drill bit

and the little press to get the gear off is a special tool unless you make 1
Woody,

I have never change a pump, But it appears to be a straight shaft pin to lock the pump into position , A drill bit should do fine.
The little plate to pull the gear, looks like one could make this part.
I tried to purchase one from a forum member, but wisely he kept it with the coach when trying to sell his Bird.
I have changed a leaky throttle rod seal, and a few other gaskets without removing the pump , to stop the fuel in the valley leak.

Has anyone change an injection pump?????
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  #4  
Old 02-25-2008
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Default 1. Fuel in the Valley slow fuel drip. 2. Valve lashing... Can it wait?

"I have changed a leaky throttle rod seal, and a few other gaskets without removing the pump , to stop the fuel in the valley leak."

Hello all,

Two issues here:

1. Fuel in the Valley slow fuel drip.
2. Valve lashing, can it wait?

I am new at all of this... pretty handy, but no mechanic. This is in reference to our new to us 1983 FC,

I have fuel in the valley and am not sure of the source. There is a fuel drip to the ground (every 15+- seconds) from one of three small tubes (bleed tubes?) that extend from the pump downward and terminate near the frame rail on the driver's side. This drip seems to have started when the cold weather set in.

Additionally, the hose that comes off the t-valve at the top of the pump (return line?) is failing and leaking a bit ( drop every 30 +-seconds) This hose needs to be changed. Its bulging and cracking (it looks like it is melting into one of the injector lines near its attachment to the pump).

I'm wondering if I can fix this myself?

For reference, I recently changed out the transmission cooler lines and that was a manageable project for me. Are these issues similar in difficulty or am I getting into tougher territory?

The coach has just under 75,000 miles on it and seems to run just fine... but we have not been out on a significant run yet. No smoke, starts instantly, sounds good, runs up to 65 etc.

I hear that I should have the valves lashed. I'm in contact with the original owner and he does not recall having this done and the records don't show it. Is this something that can wait a while?

Your feedback is always appreciated.

Thanks
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Last edited by NH Bill; 02-25-2008 at 09:09 AM.
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  #5  
Old 02-25-2008
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the line up/locking pin is 1/4''.
at one time i had the cat tools to do that work,but now i just use a 1/4 drill bit,you need 2 of them,theres a place in the front of the engine to put a pin,and then a pin goes into the pump.
a regular puller works fine on the gear,cat and cummins both have that flat plate puller,the reason is on some trucks you can pop the grear off without removing the radiator,if you have the flat plate puller.
I always advance the timing when i replace the pump,it helps with power and economy.
woody,i advanced the timing on the FC i sold you.

NHBill,the small lines coming off your pump are just to direct any leakage onto the ground,they are easy to replace,and the engine will be just as happy without the lines.
if the line that hooks to the "T" valve is leaking then the "T" valve itself is not closed or just plain bad. you can replace the T valve too,just unscrew it . no bleeding required when you replace it.
just remember,anytime you work on the fuel system you need to keep it clean,wash it before you start,get all the dirt and grunge off.
Most leaks in a pump any of you guys can fix,its just gaskets and seals,the pump itself is almost bullet proof,kinda like the 3208 engine!
Randy
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  #6  
Old 02-25-2008
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Bill, you ask lots of good questions,

If you have diesel fuel dripping on the engine, it can find its way to the exhaust headers, this is not a good situation.
Each of the three little black drain tubes are hard to identify, but each has a purpose.
One is the "T" valve used to purge or burp the air out of the system.
T valve should be closed, and not leaking.
The second tube is the dry well under the solenoid fuel shut off value.
No fuel should be present here or leaking. This can be repaired from the top of the pump.
The third drain tube in for the front seal on the pump, if this is leaking the pump must be removed. Then repaired, replaced or rebuilt.

Other leaks could be the fuel injection lines,they may be loose or cracked.
You stated the by-pass hose is weak , this must be replaced, a high % of fuel returns to the fuel tank.
A higher probability for a leak is the throttle rod seal, this can be repaired with out removing the pump. There is a write up in the files;

Wanderlodge Owners Group > Links, Files, Old Yahoo Forum Database and Downloads > Manuals and Files Stored in This Forums Software DATABASE > Index of Downloaded Manuals and Files in Forums Software Database >FILES & DIRECTORIES > 3208 THROTTLE ROD SEAL/

Turn on a fan get lots of ventilation and use a solvent to clean the top of the engine, fuel lines, & injection pump, to try to locate the leaks, there may be more than one leak, solvent such as brake cleaner or carb cleaner is very flamable..... need lots of fresh air ventilation on the cold engine.
If you are removing parts to repair seals on the injection pump , this is also a good time, (while you are into there) to adjust the valves, the doghouse and valve covers need to be removed. The Valve adjust may not be as critical , but this should be checked eventually, since it seems to be an unknown. This procedure should be in the engine operators manual.
This is about the same as most all valve adjustment procedures, really not that difficult. Cat dealer parts people will print most any picture , you will get a better idea, if all of this is inside your skill level,

If you own and use a 3/8 socket set and associated open end and box wrenches , this is possible for the back yard mechanic.
Randy has also made good pointers, and Yep keep it clean. No dirt into
the system, the final filter is 2 Micron
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Last edited by iamflagman; 12-28-2009 at 03:09 AM. Reason: Changed link
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  #7  
Old 02-25-2008
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Hey Randy,

" a regular puller works fine on the gear,"

What is a regular puller?? , like a steering wheel puller???
bolt in the middle , with two more , one on each end????

Is there room , or is there a mini puller..???
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  #8  
Old 02-25-2008
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I understand from a local diesel mechanic if work has been done by a CAT dealership, just take the serial number to a CAT dealer and you can access all service and repair records.

John
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  #9  
Old 02-25-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John 'n Deb View Post
I understand from a local diesel mechanic if work has been done by a CAT dealership, just take the serial number to a CAT dealer and you can access all service and repair records.

John
If its been to the Cat house. They "SHOULD" be able to find any work done to it by the seriel # . Tom
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  #10  
Old 02-25-2008
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NH Bill. If you have leaking fuel. IMO. you need to get it stopped from leaking.

Randy & Bill P. have given some good advice. Check the easy stuff first and you might get lucky and just have something loose or a bad "T" valve.I have replaced seals and gaskets on the I.pump with good results. BUT!! As Randy and Bill P. said. If you go into the pump...Make sure it is CLEAN!!! and STAYS CLEAN!!!! good luck. Tom
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