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General Discussion of preventative/corrective maintenance and other technical issues regarding your coach that are not covered in other Mechanic's Corner categories (ex. refrigerators, water heaters, and compressors). |
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#1
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Hi all, I am starting to formulate how I want to build my garage and want it to be large enough for my Bird and have some type of pit to work on it in.
I know insurance is either high or unobtainable if I build a pit so I was thinking about building some ramps into the concrete instead. Not sure if insurance would consider this a pit but maybe. The other alternative is to find a good used hydraulic rack to put either end of the Bird on. What do you think? Adrian
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Karen & Adrian Abshire - Current coach: 1998 double slide 45' Newell Prior: 1985 Foretravel ORED 35, 1988 38' Foretravel U280, 2000 Foretravel 42' U320, 1990 WB40 'Mauvelous'(sold) |
#2
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Adrian,
I use ramps outside on compacted gravel. I don't see why they would not work equally inside. I don't think I would go with concrete ramps. With concrete, you are pretty much stuck with whatever you cast and then you have to live with it or spend a lot of labor removing them. If you ever change coaches, sell the place, or repurpose the garage, you will curse the concrete ramps. Take a look at the photo below. I made these ramps out of 6"x6"x8' treated landscaping timbers. Using 5/8" all thread I bolted 6 of them together to make one ramp. Using a chain saw I was able to cut the angle in to each timber. I keep these from moving around by using 3 - 2 foot stakes driven through the ramp into the ground. I think you could do something similar with the garage and use a couple of anchor bolts to hold them in place. They would be a lot easier to move if you change your mind. I also recommend not making the ramps any taller than 6 inches or you will have a difficult time not snagging equipment underneath when you drive over them. In hind site, I may would want to make mine out of 10 foot long timbers. This would have allowed me to using the leveling jacks without adding any boards. The when my wheels are center on the ramps, my level jacks want to be on the slope. I didn't think about this at the time. Let me know if you need more detail pictures. With the 6 inch high ramps I have plenty of room to roll around on a dolly under the coach with the bags fully deflated. I don't have to worry about the bus settling and being crushed. For major repairs, I would look to raise the bus higher but for small projects and maintence, 6 inches worked well. Earlier this year I replaced the track bar bushing on the back axle and had no problems with the clearence.
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Tim Kuhlman Battle Ground, WA 83 FC35 |
#3
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i don't think i would build into concrete i think you could have interference problems with bottom of coach when you drive on to them depends on wheel base i guess but my 40ft-er would bottom out...i too want to build a portable set.. will move them into position and pull forward and onto them ...kc made a nice set...
mike
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mike mcgraugh 2003 LXI "Blacktop Gyspy" even a blind squirrel finds a nut once in awhile washington Il. |
#4
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Really like the looks of those Tim! More pics would be greatly appreciated. Are the wheel chocks attached to the ramps?
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Leonard Campbell Trufant, MI 1986 PT40 |
#5
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The chocks are not part of the ramp. I picked those up at Harbor Freight. I got into the habit of using them when I park the bus for awhile. Below are some more pictures of the ramps. The picture with the ramp under the generator was taken with the bus fully aired up. I know some eagle will spot the oil stains on the plywood. That is from an oil leak around the air compressor. That is my next project after I get the front wheel bearings taken care of. Tim
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Tim Kuhlman Battle Ground, WA 83 FC35 |
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pit, rack, ramp |
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